sig Posted February 23, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 23, 2014 so you gave me an idea harley!...we got the horns working after cleaning the terminals a bit http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8Y4rw7mmjIw&feature=youtu.be Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
knuckleharley Posted February 23, 2014 Report Share Posted February 23, 2014 so you gave me an idea harley!...we got the horns working after cleaning the terminals a bit http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8Y4rw7mmjIw&feature=youtu.be Good to see you have your little girl helping you. Just wait until you hook those horns to a 12 volt battery. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sig Posted February 23, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 23, 2014 haha ! that was a 12 v but the sparks scared Lily a bit!..It echoed around the whole valley! so anyway here come the tech questions. .....assume zero knowledge of flatheads. I pulled the whole of the front end off today, as it seems the engine is seized after all!...and I need access to the front crank bolt first good thing was that the (what I assume is ) the starter motor (the motor on the left near the fan) works well...with a 12v battery it spins fast. the second good thing was that 5 of the rusted spark plugs came out easily the first bad thing was that 1 of them snapped . i´m pretty sure this is not the first time this has ever happened in the galaxy..what is the best technique to get the blighter out?????-.-...I thought cutting a slot and unscrewing it with a massive screwdriver ???? I was also perplexed that the depth inside the spark holes was very shallow for all....thinking surely some of the pistons should be further down than others ???, then I saw this which I assume explains it....below the plugs are the valves yes? another thing I don´t understand is what is the second motor on the right with the foot switch contact??. I´m assuming the footswitch is some sort of starting mechanism which made me think that maybe the motor on the right is the starter instead?? a bit confused...one of them ought to be a generator or something I´ve put petrol and oil in the plug holes and I´ll try and rock the car or the crank bolt to free it off..any good tips from the top.?? cheers all sig Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
casper50 Posted February 23, 2014 Report Share Posted February 23, 2014 the one in the rear is the starter the one in front with the belt is the generator. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andydodge Posted February 23, 2014 Report Share Posted February 23, 2014 Sig, that one at the front with the pulley at its front is the generator, that one at the back is the starter motor, LHD mopars have a foot starter switch that you press.........seriously mate you NEED to get a workshop manual.......all will be revealed........lol..........andyd Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sig Posted February 23, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 23, 2014 thanks guys..pretty bloody obvious really, I forgot all about the flywheel!...at least I now know the generator spins nice and fast !! the broken plug..they say heat and a small chisel ! yikes Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
casper50 Posted February 23, 2014 Report Share Posted February 23, 2014 harder but if that doesn't work break the ceramic out drill through and easyout it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sig Posted February 24, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 24, 2014 never seen an easy out in spain, so tapped a triangular file into the hole gently and with an adjustable spanner it span right out dead easy ! also the engine is turning !, rocking back and forth in gear and the whole thing jumped free and spins, then when the starter motor terminals were cleaned up it turned the engine also, ..very happy. on the underside the crossmember is pretty knackered, it could be patched but also the left wheel is very droopy and the bearings on the right are super loose, and thats before we get to brakes etc. so as the jag engine is only 3m away Its difficult to not compare. they really are very similar in size and design, except I know the jag set up works well and I can get spares for it here....you can see where this is going.......I think the decision is making itself..add to the equation disc brakes and better steering and what would you do ???? don´t get me wrong I really respect the 1939 suspension set up , and no doubt it was way ahead of its time and everything but I think its too far gone to repair cost effectively from spain. I will of course have to explain this to the examiner here if he discovers that its not original..but what type of idiot would argue against safer brakes and steering ??? so the front clip is now separated from the jag motor and I need to figure out how to graft it onto the dodge. the total width is the same (wheels included 180 cm)the difference is the jag engine sits further forward as its longer. so plan at the moment is get the newer clip in and adapt to the flatty. can anyone see any massive problems that i´m forgetting about?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
builtfercomfort Posted February 25, 2014 Report Share Posted February 25, 2014 Just think about where the firewall sits and where the radiator will fit with the new motor in place. Mock up the sheet metal for the Dodge front clip on the Jag front suspension and see where you are - where will the radiator etc. sit? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
knuckleharley Posted February 25, 2014 Report Share Posted February 25, 2014 Don't touch the crank nut yet or try to start it. BTW,did you have the starter off the engine when you hooked a battery to it. That's a little confusing to me. If it was still on the engine and it spun over,either the gear on the shaft is bad or missing,or the engine spun over. How to safely unstick a engine: 1: Remove the head and side plates that cover the valves. 2: Use the valve lifter adjustment nuts to back off completely to allow each valve to shut. Any valve that doesn't shut by itself needs some penetrating oil sprayed on the stem under the valve head,and then let it sit for a while. Once the penetrating oil has had some time to work it's magic,gently tap the valve face with a plastic hammer until it closes. 3a: Once all the valves are closed,use compressed air to blow any dust or or debris out of the cylinders and then take a really good look at the piston tops and the cylinder walls to see if there is any obvious damage. If everything looks ok,fill the cylinders with carb cleaner. 3b: If everything looks ok,bolt the head back on using the old gasket unless it is torn and tight it up to the correct torque specifications using the correct sequence to prevent warping the head. 4: Buy a tool used to hold valves shut in OHV engines so valve springs can be replaced,and screw it into the number 1 cylinder. Hook a hose from your air compressor to the valve device,remove the dip stick/crankcase breather so the oil pan can vent,and let 125-150 psi or more of air pressure work their magic. You will know you are successful when you hear "blub,blub,blub" noises coming from the oil filler/dipstick tube. Fill that cylinder with something like Marvel Mystery Oil or Automatic Transmission fluid mixed with brake fluid to thin it out. 5: Move on to cylinder number 2 and repeat. Keep repeating until you have air moving past the rings on all 6 cylinders and all 6 cylinders now have been filled with Marvel Mystery Oil or ATF/brake fluid. 6: Put the air pressure to cylinder number 1 and repeat until the air has pushed the oil past the rings in each cylinder. 7: Making sure there are no spark plugs in the head,put a socket on the pulley nut on the crankshaft,and turn the engine by hand with a ratchet or breaker bar. 8a: Once you have turned the engine over one full revolution by hand,drain all the old oil and the crap you just forced past the rings into a drain pan and replace with fresh 20 or 30 weight non-detergent oil and replace the oil filter,if it has one. 8b: Adjust your valves and put the covers back on. It's important to not forget to do this. Don't ask me how I know. 9: Spin the engine 10 seconds or so at a time using a 12 volt battery,and then pausing for maybe 30 seconds to avoid getting the starter too hot and then spinning it again for 10 seconds. Do this until you see oil pressure build up on the oil pressure gauge. Listen for knocks or other sounds of distress while the engine is turning over. 10: Once you have oil pressure and things seem to be ok,put the spark plugs back in the head,attach the plug wires,hook a new piece of rubber hose to the fuel inlet of the carb,stick the other end in a small container higher than the carb so gravity will feed it,and start your engine. 11: Remove your gas tank and have it boiled out and sealed,and replace your entire gas line with a new one making sure you put a new gas filter between the gas line and your fuel pump. Make sure you use the new rubber hose that is rated for modern fuel injection engines because today's gas will rot the hell out of rubber gas lines for old cars. 11b: Rebuild the fuel pump using modern parts,or buy a newly re manufactured fuel pump. Once again,modern gas will eat the diaphragm in old fuel pumps that aren't already dried out,cracked,and useless. You are now ready to move on to things like suspension and brakes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
knuckleharley Posted February 25, 2014 Report Share Posted February 25, 2014 the broken plug..they say heat and a small chisel ! yikes You can probably get by with just heat and a socket and breaker bar. Or just completely knock the porcelain off the top of the plug and use a stuck bolt remover in the hole and a socket and ratchet. I've done this and then used the spark plug to make my own valve hold closed device by putting a air fitting in the hole. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
knuckleharley Posted February 25, 2014 Report Share Posted February 25, 2014 >>I will of course have to explain this to the examiner here if he discovers that its not original..but what type of idiot would argue against safer brakes and steering ???<< One that works for the government. Don't do this until you know it's not going to cause you grief when you go to license it. Get permission or procedures first,and make a note of who gave them to you,the date,and the time. BTW,just in case you decide to get the flathead engine running and keep it in the car until it has passed all the inspections,be aware that this car is a 6 volt positive ground system. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sig Posted February 25, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 25, 2014 thanks guys, in theory I´ll be keeping the flatty for a while on the jag front suspension.that is why I´m trying to get a spark in it. so heres the question, I´ve got the thing wired up like I do on the 2cv´s.. negative from coil goes to distributor positive from coil goes to battery (in this case the negative terminal?) negative from battery goes to power of starter motor positive to earth on motor when turning over I should get a spark or not??..because I don´t..not sure whether its wired wrong of the coil or leads need changing..the plugs are new obviously cheers ..very excited Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave72dt Posted February 25, 2014 Report Share Posted February 25, 2014 From what I read, you have the battery hooked up positive ground and the coil has me confused. consider the points and cond as the ground. the terminal marked ( - ) would come from the battery and the ( + ) terminal goes to the distributor. If you haven't changed out the points yet, run a point file through them or a bit of emery cloth and check the gap. They often get some corrosion on them that prevents them from making good contact. You should be able to open and close them manually and get a small spark between the contact points. If you do and the rotor and cap is on, you should get spark from the coil. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sig Posted February 25, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 25, 2014 (edited) cheers dave, very useful, cleaned the points and now I have a (small ) spark at the plugs..well some of them as I´ve just seen that the leads are rubbish and pretty deteriorated. however it appears to be negative earth...based on lack of spark with positive earth and smoke coming out of the starter !!! however still no combustion..i´ve poured petrol into the carb, and tried to feed it with gravity, but no joy as yet, and all these intents are playing havoc with the batteries and the crocodile clips..it takes a massive draw from them. (I´m using a 12v battery) i´ll pull the carb to bits to see if its blocked or something tomorrow. also started on the drivers door sill and primering the roof and wing...(the most porous of the rust spots) Edited February 25, 2014 by sig Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
casper50 Posted February 25, 2014 Report Share Posted February 25, 2014 sig if the spark is weak and maybe not on all plugs it might not start no matter what. Check that you have spark at all plugs, pour a little gas down the carb throat and see what happens. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave72dt Posted February 26, 2014 Report Share Posted February 26, 2014 From post #88, your info says you have a pos ground (earth ) setup on your battery and stater. You want your ign set up the same way which was what I described in my earlier post. Switch the leads on the coil if need be Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sig Posted February 26, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 26, 2014 YEEEEEESSSSSSS!!!!!! THE OLD GIRL IS ALIVE AGAIN lead changed , points cleaned again, coil polarity was wrong, rigged up gravity petrol feed and whoooshhhhhhh!! the spluttery flatty sound filling the village..very happy...need to sort out some kind of cooling system though! you´ll see the video soon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sig Posted February 26, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 26, 2014 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JNAMVCr1wgM&feature=youtu.be Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
casper50 Posted February 26, 2014 Report Share Posted February 26, 2014 sounds pretty good Sig. Congrats 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smokeywolf Posted February 26, 2014 Report Share Posted February 26, 2014 Nice one The front axle could be blasted and repaired using a 4mm (5/32)thick ring to go on the underside cold riveted in place using round head rivets To the flange By leaving the centre underside of the axle open the result of this would reduce moisture build up if the underside of the axle was filled in. fitting the Jag clip does make a lot of sense. However both ways are a lot of work however I think I know someone that may need some parts from the original. Either way keeping it simply will increase your chances of getting it on the road. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Niel Hoback Posted February 26, 2014 Report Share Posted February 26, 2014 That's the most beautiful sound you can hear, isn't? Look at the smile on that guy's face! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sig Posted February 26, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 26, 2014 That's the most beautiful sound you can hear, isn't? Look at the smile on that guy's face! the gurgle from the exhaust is what i´ve been dreaming about all these months !!!..... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OYIFldBcIWY&feature=youtu.be Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
greg g Posted February 26, 2014 Report Share Posted February 26, 2014 Have you done a compression test?? What are your readings? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
knuckleharley Posted February 27, 2014 Report Share Posted February 27, 2014 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JNAMVCr1wgM&feature=youtu.be I don't hear any rude noises or see any clouds of smoke,so you really lucked out on the engine. You might want to give your starter a break by not spinning it so long at one time without letting it cool off,though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.