Grdpa's 50 Dodge Posted October 13, 2013 Report Share Posted October 13, 2013 I am sorry for such a goofy question,,,but I have never owned a jackstand in my whole entire life. We used sawed off tree stumps and firewood blocks, with 2 bye 6 and 4 bye 8 'adjusters'. I bought a pair of brand new 3 ton jacks for the front and 2 ton for the rear,,,will that hold it okay or did I go too small??? I am learning on a steep curve ,,I found out the hard way a floor jack on the rear axle wasnt the way to change a tire. SOOOOO, dont want to repeat same issues with removing tires and wheels,PLUS have max height and room to work since I dont bend as well as I used to,,,AND have to suck it in a bit to crawl under stuff any more. I ask do I want the car up almost the max height on the stands to make it 'easier' for old farts to get under and access to wheels. I am guessing most wrenching on master cylinder is from below. Never did like adding fluid thru the floor as I always seemed to add more dirt than goodies. And lastly is there a place to place jacks for max stability and effect?? I am guessing on the frame of the body, to leave the wheels down on suspension(not repeating previous mistake). Havent looked too hard in the trunk yet but guessing I need a factory correct bumper jack also. Moving 5 years ago think I threw all the broken stripped out ones away(which wasnt close to locale of this car at the time)(never thought I would need one again)since newer better options were there. Is there a source for those,,, prefered and approved forum kind.??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
desoto1939 Posted October 13, 2013 Report Share Posted October 13, 2013 Most of the owners do not use the factory jack setup. I prefer a good sizzors jack which permits you to be clear of the car when jacking up the car. Best stop is to use on the frame. It also depends on what you are trying to do. So If changing a rear wheel then jack up the car on the frame near the rear and side of the car. remember to loosen the lug nuts first you only have to get the car up high enough so that the tire is off the ground so you can pull the tire off the drum. This also goes for the front wheels. Placement of jackstands also this need to be done on a flat serfice on the ground for stability. The jackstands should be used on the frame and if doing some rear work on the brakes you could put them under the rear axle member. The placement of the jackstands need to be done in a sfae manner and your judgement on where to place them is your option. Persoanlly I do not like to work under a 3000 lb car being held up with jackstands even if they are ranged for the amount to hold up the car. You should also beable to fill the mastercylinder from the top of the engine compartment. I have a 39 Desoto and the MC is below the floor board but I can get access to the fill nut and use a funner with a long hose to fill the MC. Rich Hartung Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grdpa's 50 Dodge Posted October 13, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 13, 2013 Forgot to mention,,,think this car is getting new wheel cylinders and hoses , all new brake lines, master cylinder and shoes if they look at all worn. And of course drums if necessary but probably not. Car has 55K miles I am sure is right and 95% of those were break neck speeds of less than 30mph (around small town) hiway speeds prob approached 50. In other words untouched by teenage drivers. (smile) SOOOO reason for this reply is to answer its a darn level concrete garage floor and I will be under car some with the lines etc. Is there a magic condition factor where you would NOT change any of above items???? Or change based solely on time frames of age??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Coatney Posted October 13, 2013 Report Share Posted October 13, 2013 I place jack stands in an area that looks secure to me such as the frame or a stable (as in not something that moves) part of the front crossmember. And most importantely I use my body weight to rock the car vigerously in all directions BEFORE I crawl under the car. If the car is going to fall I would rather have it fall when I am not below it 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
_shel_ny Posted October 13, 2013 Report Share Posted October 13, 2013 The wider/longer stance of the jacks, the better. Personally, for the cost of the lines while doing the job, I would replace them all. If I were to do one again, I would have all the wheel cylinders, and master re-sleeved. From that point on, they would out live me with no concerns of moisture, and pitting/leaking. 1) I recently built a pair of "Bamsford's garage" special stands. 2) I have your wooden block. 3) And a how not to jack and support view. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
P15-D24 Posted October 13, 2013 Report Share Posted October 13, 2013 And after you get it up on jack stands leave your jack in place, but not under load. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JerseyHarold Posted October 13, 2013 Report Share Posted October 13, 2013 I lay the tires that i removed on the floor under the chassis so if the car falls there is that much extra to catch it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
greg g Posted October 13, 2013 Report Share Posted October 13, 2013 I usually place the stands at the frame just in front of the spring attachment point and in the front,right under the front horns where the bumper brackets bolt up. IF you have the type of jack stand that has the notched retainer with the lever that releases, never go past the second notch from the bottom. And they will tear up your driveway if its asphalt, so you may want to grab some 1/2 inch plywood squares to place under them when not on concrete. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grdpa's 50 Dodge Posted October 13, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 13, 2013 Update, I put the 4 ton stands under the front on the bottom of the sway bar brackets right under the frame. (Did I forget to say NO engine in yet)(Its a foot in front and waiting to go in on lift) So get to the back and lifted at the straight part of frame right in front of rear tire,,,jack away and the 'front' of the car comes up instead of the back. The 3 ton jack stands are WAY to short so put them on a 4 bye and a double 2 bye on the other side which raises them 3 1/2 inch and they are still way short. Rear tires are still on the ground tight. Going to get another pair of 4's or 5's so get more height. Front tires are about 6" off the floor. I am working on passengers side only right now. Rear castle nut wont move for me yet. Tried a 1/2 impact, nothing doing,,,broke out the 3/4 drive sockets to get a 1 1/4" size but jumping on the handle hasnt worked and the cheater pipe I found dont fit the handle,,,will search for a different handle tommorrow. Fast forward to front drum which came off not bad without backing shoes up. Didnt expect what I saw the little half wheel cylinders,,,HOW do they come off? bleeder and hose thru back but looks like they mount on the shoe bolt. Is their a tutorial for dummies as to how to disassemble and reassemble??? Tried turning back side of bolt with an arrow and that doesnt work,,,yet. Shoes are about half on bottom than whats left on top. New shoes for grandpa I guess. Hoses on back are hard brittle and checked. Lots and lots of brake dust and caked on mud and grease That and I was going to buy some line wrenches for brake cyl,,,are those 3/8??? 7 /16 is too big I was thinking one double cyl and a wheel adjuster on the bottom but guess those were chebby I drove later. Oh and all my gear pullers have teeth to grab over the edge, Can I pull on the flange on rear drums or will I make them crooked,,,cause dont have one that pulls on wheel studs.??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Merle Coggins Posted October 13, 2013 Report Share Posted October 13, 2013 Oh and all my gear pullers have teeth to grab over the edge, Can I pull on the flange on rear drums or will I make them crooked,,,cause dont have one that pulls on wheel studs.??? NO!! You need the proper puller for the read drums. If you don't have one you need to buy or borrow one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigDaddyO Posted October 13, 2013 Report Share Posted October 13, 2013 And they will tear up your driveway if its asphalt, so you may want to grab some 1/2 inch plywood squares to place under them when not on concrete. I use old disc break rotors to set the jack stands on. This is one scary picture. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grdpa's 50 Dodge Posted October 14, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 14, 2013 further update, Got the castle nut off the rear axle. Was thinking of having a 1/2 or 3/4 inch plate cut in a doughnut for the wheel stud pattern put it behind the nuts and pull. I have a puller that locks down on them AND doesnt spread and slip and really heavy duty But it doesnt have the holes to put the studs thru. it would pull on all five equally. Found the brake tutorial on here and was doing the front brake removal almost right, just not aggresive enuf. Nowhere did it say the bottom bolt goes thru the tie rod end too. So all the brake is apart on pass. frt.,,,the wheel cylinders look like complete toast ,,,rusted to no end and full of sandy residue, zero fluid. At what point can they be 'sleeved'??? And who/ where is that done? Was doing some thinking under there and wondered IF there was any suspension and or steering condition checks while apart???wiggle what where??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Coatney Posted October 14, 2013 Report Share Posted October 14, 2013 Do you have a service manual for your car? If not you should get one. You might want to consider a disk conversion for the front brakes. Easier and less expensive than rebuilding the stock brakes especially if you dont have the special Ammco brake adjusting tool. link to Ammco tool. http://smg.photobucket.com/user/DonCoatney/library/#/user/DonCoatney/library/Brakes/Ammco?sort=3&page=1&_suid=138171358330106763028077111703 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grdpa's 50 Dodge Posted October 14, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 14, 2013 Don, I just found one on EPay and tried to buy, I have moved about 6 times in last 5 years since my pay pal account was created. They have zero way of transfering your providers email to current mail addy. Lost my facebook for same reason and they lock you out from reregistering too. I will figure it out and get one bought,,,been wanting too and I needed to I know,,,no question about it!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redmond49 Posted January 26, 2014 Report Share Posted January 26, 2014 I'm trying to put my car on stands this evening - the jackstands have the half cut out circle shape to them - they fit perfectly against the triangular brackets the come down off the front of the frame - (front swaybar brackets). Then, it looks like the only other place they would fit easily is against the bumper brackets coming off the frame. Are these the spots people normally put the jackstands at, at the front? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Niel Hoback Posted January 26, 2014 Report Share Posted January 26, 2014 Sway bar brackets are not strong enough for me to use. I put mine under the frame behind the wheels where the angles of the frame meet. If you don't like to use the u-shape on the frame, put a piece of oak on top of it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dodgeb4ya Posted January 26, 2014 Report Share Posted January 26, 2014 I place jack stands in an area that looks secure to me such as the frame or a stable (as in not something that moves) part of the front crossmember. And most importantely I use my body weight to rock the car vigerously in all directions BEFORE I crawl under the car. If the car is going to fall I would rather have it fall when I am not below it I sure like your front jack stands Don! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Coatney Posted January 26, 2014 Report Share Posted January 26, 2014 I sure like your front jack stands Don! I got those stands when I was in high school. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redmond49 Posted January 26, 2014 Report Share Posted January 26, 2014 I'm trying to take all the wheels off like in don's pics, but I'm not sure what he's got those from stands connected to underneath. If I put the front jack stands behind the front wheels and the back jack stands in front of the rear wheels, that seems to leave the nose kind of unsupported. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redmond49 Posted January 26, 2014 Report Share Posted January 26, 2014 I put it up with the main jackstands on either side of the doors, and put a pair under the front bumper brackets as back up. She seems pretty stable, I can't get her to wobble at all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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