ssnowden Posted September 30, 2013 Report Share Posted September 30, 2013 I had a productive Saturday. From this: To this: I've got a couple of rust spots to patch, but overall, it's not bad. The rust is limited to where it was bolted to the front fender on both sides. The drivers side is the worst of the two. It's solid metal at the bottom. Back in 1980, the body guy put a fiberglass patch over it. The side is solid. I put a magnet on the side to check that it's all metal. The passenger side is in better shape. Again, a small fiberglass patch was on it. Now for clean up, new wiring harness, front end rebuild, shocks, and checking out the engine. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GlennCraven Posted September 30, 2013 Report Share Posted September 30, 2013 You sure did get a lot done. I enjoy seeing the photos from people who are making progress. Good luck! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plymouthy Adams Posted September 30, 2013 Report Share Posted September 30, 2013 wow...for anyone that thinks fiberglass patching is a method to use...these photos tell the story...metal replacement with full perimeter weld is still the way to go...it is disheartening to uncover this type of damage but you get the change to do it in metal.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobertKB Posted September 30, 2013 Report Share Posted September 30, 2013 Great progress. Please keep the pictures and news coming as you move forward. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ssnowden Posted September 30, 2013 Author Report Share Posted September 30, 2013 Yes. I'm glad I took the front fenders off where I could inspect it and stop it from getting worse by welding in metal and putting in rust preventative. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plymouthy Adams Posted September 30, 2013 Report Share Posted September 30, 2013 guite the project for sure and good to inspect every part of the body....some areas are more prone to other for damage and will make your inspection a bit quicker to hit these spots even if they look good from the outside...good luck..many here have attacked these very areas in the past....I replaced a bit of metal in this very area on my coupe...luckily I was the first responder to the rust...this metal is not that hard to shape and replace..the inner most portion of the cowl/rockerfloor pan attachment points is quite a bit more involved though...also very prone to damage...layered metal so you can accomplish the repair in proper sequence but still not the best area for access... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chester Brzostowski Posted September 30, 2013 Report Share Posted September 30, 2013 Great Job, Looking at your pictures brought back many memories. Keep at it the end result is worth the effort. Chet... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ssnowden Posted October 1, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 1, 2013 (edited) It looks like the engine is a 230 out of a Dodge M37 or a variant military truck from the serial number I found on the block that started with "T245-" . I found a good reference on this page http://www.t137.com/registry/help/otherengines/tengines.html . Considering this is all new to me, is that a good thing, bad thing or no big deal? Wikipedia says it has 78 hp, so thats less than the 218. Edited October 1, 2013 by ssnowden Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ssnowden Posted October 1, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 1, 2013 I found the year of the engine too. It was made in 1953. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Yergin Posted October 1, 2013 Report Share Posted October 1, 2013 It looks like the engine is a 230 out of a Dodge M37 or a variant military truck from the serial number I found on the block that started with "T245-" . I found a good reference on this page http://www.t137.com/registry/help/otherengines/tengines.html . Considering this is all new to me, is that a good thing, bad thing or no big deal? Wikipedia says it has 78 hp, so thats less than the 218. I wonder where Wikipedia got that number? Even the 201 that was in my '41 P12 was rated at 87hp. I would think a 230 should have more hp than that. Jim Yergin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
greg g Posted October 1, 2013 Report Share Posted October 1, 2013 53 230 woulda been at least 120/125, unless the mil spec was less due to multi fuel capability. Detuned to allow kerosene or other fuel mixtures. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
knuckleharley Posted October 2, 2013 Report Share Posted October 2, 2013 53 230 woulda been at least 120/125, unless the mil spec was less due to multi fuel capability. Detuned to allow kerosene or other fuel mixtures. I think it MIGHT be possible the military rated horsepower in a different way than advertising agencies. I drove a bunch of those 3/4 ton monsters when I was in the army,and they had to have had more than 78 horsepower by civilian standards just to get the heavy SOB's going. I can't remember if 50 MPH was around their top speed,or if that was just as fast as you wanted to drive one. Nobody ever described their steering as "responsive". Takes two men and a boy to turn the damn wheel. We did have a duece and a quarter at our camp in VN that would run along at 70 mph,though. It was the fastest vehicle we had. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
falconvan Posted October 4, 2013 Report Share Posted October 4, 2013 Nice job! Now the fun begins! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pflaming Posted October 4, 2013 Report Share Posted October 4, 2013 Welcome to the world of rust. I'm deep into my first encounter with restoring rusted out areas. That rust is like working with ground up razor blades, it's VERY sharp. I hate gloves on my hands but I'm about ready to get some. Good luck as you proceed, we'll be cheering you on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ssnowden Posted October 4, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 4, 2013 Thanks. I'm getting to know my wire brush wheels quite well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
knuckleharley Posted October 4, 2013 Report Share Posted October 4, 2013 Thanks. I'm getting to know my wire brush wheels quite well. Do yourself a big future favor,and make sure you wear a mask or respirator when grinding the rust away. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ssnowden Posted December 28, 2015 Author Report Share Posted December 28, 2015 I'm resurrecting this thread provide an update. Well, it's funny how time flies. It's hard to believe it's been 2 years since I started this project. I had to take over a year break from it though. We bought an older house just over a year ago that needed a full remodel, so I've been playing Bob Villa and the Plymouth has been sitting there gathering dust. The house is "done", at least enough where I can now start back on the Plymouth. Time to stop spending all my money at Lowes and start spending it on car parts. However, one of the reasons I bought this old house was because there's a big workshop in the back and now I have plenty of room to work on the car. Last week I ordered all new internals for the distributor and plug wires from Andy Bernbaum and a Pertronix Flamethrower coil. I got it all installed last night. I know for sure this car hasn't been started in at least 15 years, and I literally just put the distributor on and plugged the wires to the spark plugs. I thought I would see if it would hit so I squirted some gas in the carb and I can't believe what happened next. https://goo.gl/photos/XmQnoV9e5sajXvBv7 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
casper50 Posted December 28, 2015 Report Share Posted December 28, 2015 nice. It's always a special moment when you hear it run for the first time. I get a feeling of bringing something back to life after many years. It seems to me to be better than buying a car that already runs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Niel Hoback Posted December 28, 2015 Report Share Posted December 28, 2015 IT'S ALIVE IT'S ALIVE !!! What a pretty sound. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ssnowden Posted December 29, 2015 Author Report Share Posted December 29, 2015 I got a pretty good deal on a set of tires and wheels and put them on today. I like the look, but I have clearance issues on the front end. https://goo.gl/photos/Gfq6GFM17u4yUST57 https://goo.gl/photos/zzgqWikU8N8TVbfe7 https://goo.gl/photos/rDRLv9ZHCGPnpnwT7 I think I know the answer, but Is there anything I can do other than get narrower wheels and tires for the front? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
casper50 Posted December 29, 2015 Report Share Posted December 29, 2015 wheel spacers? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andydodge Posted December 29, 2015 Report Share Posted December 29, 2015 Caspers answer would be the start, but it looks like you'd need at least 3/4" to 1" which would be too much to ask of a wheel spacer, but would it be possible to have those rims reversed or the centres remounted with more offset on those rims or another set.............andyd Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ssnowden Posted December 29, 2015 Author Report Share Posted December 29, 2015 Per Plymouthy's suggestion, I'm looking into 1" hub centric wheel adapters. I'm checking to see if these are hub centric. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/trd-7069/media/instructions Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ssnowden Posted December 29, 2015 Author Report Share Posted December 29, 2015 Nope, they're not hub centric. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plymouthy Adams Posted December 29, 2015 Report Share Posted December 29, 2015 (edited) those are cheapo models..cast devices...don't recommend them....per chat I recommended E-bay....the below is set of four billet and hub centric measure you hub and compare.. http://www.ebay.com/itm/4-pcs-1-5x4-5-to-5-x-4-5-Wheel-Spacers-Adapters-5Lug-1-2-x-20-/251641232881?hash=item3a96fc7df1:g:B3cAAOSwuMFUdjMP&vxp=mtr Edited December 29, 2015 by Plymouthy Adams Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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