wayfarer Posted November 25, 2013 Report Share Posted November 25, 2013 Vaseline is also a good 'grease' to use. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John-T-53 Posted November 26, 2013 Report Share Posted November 26, 2013 I find the heat riser very useful here in the southern part of the SF Bay Area during winter months. The morning humidity near the bay can be fairly high and the temperatures in the high 30s to high 40s which is the time that the heat riser does the most good. I would have thought Napa would have a climate similar enough to have the heat riser help on cold start drivability too. On the other hand Palo Alto, Mountain View, Sunnyvale, Cupertino, etc. are not known for their wines. My heat riser had been blocked off in the past, before I bought the truck, by a metal plate sandwiched between the two manifolds. All riser parts are gone. Despite this, when i was running a single carb before, start up and warm up didn't seem to take very long. And I have always lived within 10 miles of the coast (now near Tod). However, after switching to a dual carb manifold, warm-up takes a lot longer. The heat chamber is now between the carbs, not below it like before. I'd vote to keep the heat riser if you have it intact. Heat your intake with every option you get and your fuel will work better for you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rkldesign Posted November 27, 2013 Author Report Share Posted November 27, 2013 Hey guys need some input on the brake drums. My front drums have been boiled and mic’d…one is 40 over and the other is 60 over. Guys at the machine shop seem to think re-surfacing them to 60 and 80 is OK…What do you think? On the rears they are both 80 over and would need to be done at 100 over….is this kosher or should I try to find new/old drums to replace them? Any tips on where to go to find some? Thanks, Richard Here is a pic of my rear drum: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HanksB3B Posted November 28, 2013 Report Share Posted November 28, 2013 (edited) You'll probably have to make-do for a while. Rare brake drums can be very hard to find and very expensive, Honestly unless you find them in some small remote back country junk yard you are going to pay my guess since the invention of the eBay junk yard $200-$300 (I hope you get lucky). If it were my vehicle (and I wish it were) I'd be on the lookout for replacements. I can't attest to the safety of running 100 over. Good Luck, May you find some NOS for $25 each. Hank Edited November 28, 2013 by HanksB3B Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rkldesign Posted December 7, 2013 Author Report Share Posted December 7, 2013 Ok, got the drums back after turning them, there is still alot of meat on these babies and since I will not be going over 55 in this beast I think it will be safe enough. I also got back the head after resurfacing and some brand new flat heat-bolts. My biggest challenge right now is UV joints. I am having a tough time finding replacements. Anyone know of a UV joint warehouse stacked full of parts from 1950? Thanks, RK Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TodFitch Posted December 7, 2013 Report Share Posted December 7, 2013 . . . My biggest challenge right now is UV joints. I am having a tough time finding replacements. . . What kind of universal joints are on it? Any part numbers showing? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rkldesign Posted December 7, 2013 Author Report Share Posted December 7, 2013 Service Package UV Joint 1243-615, It has all the parts included for replacement of one joint. I need 3 Uv joints, I have one NOS found on ebay a month ago. If I have to mix and match the parts I know are good to make up four joints then I may have to. The UV Joint dimensions are as follows, From cap edge across to cap edge it is 4 3/8" and the cap diameter is 1 1/4". I am looking in my parts manuals for any other parts info. RK Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wayfarer Posted December 8, 2013 Report Share Posted December 8, 2013 If you search for: u-joint size chart you will find a lot of dimensional detail that may lead you to a replacement. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dodgeb4ya Posted December 8, 2013 Report Share Posted December 8, 2013 (edited) 1243615 also fits 2-3/4 ton heavy series 1948-53 dodge trucks. Collector Auto Supply lists one.... If you get in trouble I probably have some good used ones. I assume your truck is the lighter DU model? The EU uses the extremely hard to find 3-4 ton #947555 rear axle U-joints. Bob Edited December 8, 2013 by Dodgeb4ya Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Young Ed Posted December 8, 2013 Report Share Posted December 8, 2013 Anyone able to cross reference this NORS one? From the listings on the box it appears to be too big for my 1/2 tons. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rkldesign Posted December 10, 2013 Author Report Share Posted December 10, 2013 What are the dimensions of your u-joint? width and diameter of cap in inches. Thanks, RK Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rkldesign Posted December 10, 2013 Author Report Share Posted December 10, 2013 Ok, I do not remember if I got their info from you guys but Jackson's Oldtime Auto Parts has two of my u-joints in stock, they think....they have to check another warehouse of stacked parts to make sure. If they have them I would be relieved as I am having a rough time finding them here in Napa. So to recap what I have done so far, Head boiling and re-surfaced, ready to paint and install. Brake shoes relined, wheel cylinders found at 35.00 each-new Drums boiled and turned, ready for paint genny rebuilt, water pump rebuilt, starter rebuilt, plugs wires, cap, rotor, condensor, coil in hand, battery- optima on hand oil pan removed and cleaned, fuel pump, got it. oil pump removed and needs to be cleaned, wheels getting rebuilt to hold radials, Stockton Wheel, Body sand blasted and patch paneled in rot areas, primed and waiting for me to pick it up. I am hoping for some more good weather so I can strip the frame and repaint it. Any suggestions on type of paint or application? Thanks, Richard Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
48Dodger Posted December 10, 2013 Report Share Posted December 10, 2013 Frame? I prefer a black Epoxy primer followed by a black Acrylic Enamel with a hardener added. Omni or Shopline...both are PPG and a fair price. 48D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pflaming Posted December 10, 2013 Report Share Posted December 10, 2013 Wow, you are moving right along. Put a pair of bunk beds in and you can put up three and yourself at the BBQ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff Balazs Posted December 10, 2013 Report Share Posted December 10, 2013 You are moving right along. Bravo! Can't wait to see it all back together. Jeff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rkldesign Posted December 10, 2013 Author Report Share Posted December 10, 2013 Wow, Jackson's Old Time parts came through, have two NOS uv-joints coming and only need to find one more, Turns out that the part number that cross refs with the Dodge part number 1243-615 is Neapco-285200 or Precision 417. Too bad part numbers have to be changed from supplier to supplier, would be better to keep them the same and just add a company name to the part number. Oh well, just happy to find 3 total and now one to go. Richard Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Young Ed Posted December 10, 2013 Report Share Posted December 10, 2013 Wow, Jackson's Old Time parts came through, have two NOS uv-joints coming and only need to find one more, Turns out that the part number that cross refs with the Dodge part number 1243-615 is Neapco-285200 or Precision 417. Too bad part numbers have to be changed from supplier to supplier, would be better to keep them the same and just add a company name to the part number. Oh well, just happy to find 3 total and now one to go. Richard Do you think that 417 is the same company as my 414 which makes it a different application? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rkldesign Posted December 11, 2013 Author Report Share Posted December 11, 2013 I think your box is a precision co. box, as I have seen other precision boxes and they are yellow. Did you have measurements on your UV joint? Cap diameter and distance across from cap edge to cap edge? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Young Ed Posted December 11, 2013 Report Share Posted December 11, 2013 I think your box is a precision co. box, as I have seen other precision boxes and they are yellow. Did you have measurements on your UV joint? Cap diameter and distance across from cap edge to cap edge? Best I can get with a tape measure is 3 23/32 across and 1 3/32 cap. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rkldesign Posted December 14, 2013 Author Report Share Posted December 14, 2013 Hey all, Picked up glass today for all the windows and I did something different for the rear door glass, it is the glass with wire that you would see in old high school doors. I guess it was security type glass. The other windows is the standard tempered auto glass. Also when I got the radiator re-cored I asked them to not paint it black as I might like to let it tarnish like it has been around for a while. Should I worry about it not being painted? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jerry Roberts Posted December 15, 2013 Report Share Posted December 15, 2013 No worries . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rkldesign Posted December 17, 2013 Author Report Share Posted December 17, 2013 (edited) Uv Joint pics and part number, Neapco 285200, 417 is also on the box. If anyone has any extras laying around I could use one more. Edited December 17, 2013 by rkldesign Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dodgeb4ya Posted December 26, 2013 Report Share Posted December 26, 2013 (edited) Here is another Factory MoPar U-joint $35.00 OBO!... http://www.ebay.com/itm/121088985921?item=121088985921&viewitem=&sspagename=ADME:X:RTQ:MOTORS:1123&vxp=mtr Edited December 26, 2013 by Dodgeb4ya Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rkldesign Posted January 30, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 30, 2014 Well guys and gals, the DRV body is back home and I am starting the assembly. Here are some pics of the body and the wheels that I got back from Stockton Wheel. Wheels were made with the original centers added to new barrels. Can install any type of tire now. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ggdad1951 Posted January 30, 2014 Report Share Posted January 30, 2014 NICE on the wheels....may I ask what that cost per rim? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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