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Speedometer Woes


Oldguy48

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DAMN IT!!!! 

It's not that big a deal!  You've had it apart once, you know what tools you need and you know how to fit yourself under the dash to get to it.  It's not broke and it seems you improved it.  It may take several times to get it the way it should be. Patience and persistence goes a long way on the old cars.

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Yeah, I know it's not a big deal. Funny thing was I spent about a half hour in the hardware store where I bought the Kroil reading all the labels to see if there was anything better and I went back to the Kroil because they were talking about it in the first part of this post. Almost went with the $7.00 silicon lub. but nnnnoooo I went with the $15.00 stuff. lol.... live and learn. I'll get some light oil or graphite this weekend.

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  DON'T PANIC.  Kroil is great stuff to have around for frozen nuts and bolts. You will be glad you bought it. Just not right now.  Go ahead ad pull the cable out of the housing, (keep it off the upholstery), and wipe it down good while checking for any kinks or wire snags.  Look for sharp bends in the housing. If its all good, a light coat of cable lube wiped on the cable will do the job for years to come. 

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  • 10 months later...

Good morning everyone...first time poster and proud recent first P15 owner!

 

I too have the dreaded speedometer chatter...35-40mph is BRUTAL listening to her chatter!

 

Just to be clear I can shoot some aerosol Kroil lightly into the back of the speedo or through the wicking area port and relube with a light oil?

 

I relubed the speedo cable with a heavier grease to hopefully reduce some chatter but it didn't help so I am positive the speedo is the culprit.

 

I was also concerned the Kroil (after just a spritz or two) would damage any sensitive bulb connections or something electrical in the speedo itself but I could be wrong.  The speedo moves and jumps freely so do I need to simply just put the light weight oil in? Would it reach the part of the speedo that desperately needs lubrication?  

 

Is electric spray contact and motor cleaner a safer bet or am I totally off here?

 

Thanks guys...bear with the noob for a bit....I will learn fast!

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Was the outer speedo cable housing carefully looked at for kinks or any damage along it's length?

 

Is it screwed tight at the speedometer and transmission ends? Sometimes the outer cable housing has a groove worn  in it by the inner cable because of no lube and dirt. This requires a complete new speedo cable.

 

Is the speedo head free and easy to spin with your fingers? A speedo shft too hard to turn will cause a bouncing needle. Lube the wick at the back of the speedo with light weight oil.

 

You can remove the speedo cable off of the speedometer head and pull  the inner cable out of the cable housing, wash it with suitable solvent blow it dry and look at it for kinks, unraveling wire strands ect..This intead of sqirting lube down the cable.

 

Then lube it with white lithium grease, light weight machine oil, vaseline ect...take your pick.

 

IMO liquid graphite is too thin of a lubricant for a speedo cable so I won't use it. It is sold as a speedo lubricant at NAPA or Carquest..

 

Re-install the inner cable free of dirt in the outer cable housing. Should work fine.

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Kroil is a penetrant and will dry up.  Use something like 3-in-one oil or sewing machine oil through the wick.  If you pull the inner cable out, be very careful to wipe it with a rag as it comes out or it will ruin your seat cover.  It only comes out through the top, not the trans end. 

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  • 6 months later...

Just read the entire thread.   The speedometer jumping is nothing new.  These cars always did this.  I had a 47 Plymouth in 1958, and it was a regular routine to pull the cable out, oil it up and reinstall, to eliminate the needle jump.

But, I've learned some things about the proper lubricants to use, here today.

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often the very path of the speedo cable housing can cause premature wear, binding and need for frequent attention..check your cable condition and method/path it is routed..you may be able to correct this easier than you think...got nothing to lose by putting a hand over hand inspection in place.

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