ssnowden Posted August 1, 2013 Report Share Posted August 1, 2013 I've got a '48 P15 Business Coupe and it's 2 hours away on my dad's farm in a shed. I know that one of the back wheel cylinders is leaking and it has no brakes at all. However, I believe it will start and run well enough to get it on a trailer. The issue is obvious, I need it to be able to stop the car until I can get it to my garage to replace the entire brake system. It's not in a location where you can do actual repairs. So, my question is, what is the best way to get any brakes at all to pull it on and off a trailer? One thought I had was perhaps I disconnect the line in the master cylinder going to the back brakes and put in a (I assume) 3/16th brass or steel plug. I'm thinking that would give me front brakes if I did that and give me the ability to stop the car. Again, I plan on replacing everything with new parts and never driving it on the road until I do. I'm not a mechanic, and one big goal of this is to learn all I can on this particular car so if this idea makes no sense, please let me know my best options. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
_shel_ny Posted August 1, 2013 Report Share Posted August 1, 2013 (edited) If working, the hand operated parking brake should be enough to do the deed. EDIT: the drum for the parking brake is on the tail section of the transmission, and secures the drive shaft/rear wheels from turning. Edited August 1, 2013 by shel_bizzy_48 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plymouthy Adams Posted August 1, 2013 Report Share Posted August 1, 2013 if your handbrake is working you should be able to load on the trailer using just his you should not be going an great speed...carefully move the car along a flat open area and test the handbrake prior to attempting to load Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ssnowden Posted August 1, 2013 Author Report Share Posted August 1, 2013 Thanks for the replies. It's not working, but I don't know if all it needs is adjusting. Is that a preferred solution or would it be more challenging? I'd also thought about a winch, but considering I'll be using a UHaul car hauler trailer, I'd hate to buy a winch for essentially a one or two time use. I'm not ruling it out, however. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plymouthy Adams Posted August 1, 2013 Report Share Posted August 1, 2013 (edited) you can look at the brake and see if it just needs adjusting..not sure of you trailer length for the load and hauling but on mine when putting on a car with the winch but more importantly if I have a slight down hill grade..I place the trailer spare tires on either ramp as a bumper for the wheels to hit and prevent car from rolling to far forward..maybe you have something similar you can use while loading..in the absence of a winch..a good long chain and a second car driving close alongside the trailer will pull the vehicle slowly up if you chose not to drive it on..I load cars in this manner all the time..quick and easy On some U-haul trailer..ensure the width and length of the ramps and the height of the fenders and distance between allow opening the door of the car..some have a drop down fender for this reason. With these trailers you often have a built in ramp stop that will allow you to bump-stop against prevent you from rolling off the forward end of the ramps. Look at the trailer you intend to rent for these features. Edited August 1, 2013 by Plymouthy Adams Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Merle Coggins Posted August 1, 2013 Report Share Posted August 1, 2013 If the master cylinder reservoir is empty you may get lucky and get some brakes by adding brake fluid and pumping the pedal a few times. Or, fix the parking brake and use it as mentioned earlier. Merle Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
_shel_ny Posted August 1, 2013 Report Share Posted August 1, 2013 (edited) This would get you up onto the trailer once you get the wheels (edit: front wheels) up the ramp under engine power. It may not be as helpful for getting the vehicle off, and will not stop it from impacting anything after that. http://www.harborfreight.com/4000-lb-capacity-cable-winch-puller-30329.html Edited August 1, 2013 by shel_bizzy_48 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
De Soto Frank Posted August 1, 2013 Report Share Posted August 1, 2013 I would try to get that parking brake working.The down-side to putting fluid in the MC and trying to pump-up the brakes is that if the wheel cylinders are sludgy and corroded, you might wind-up "setting" the brakes, and then they can't release, because the wheel-cyls are stuck. Then you will be into trying to pull the stuck drums and getting the brakes to release. This will not be quick or fun. Also, if you are driving the vehicle onto a trailer under its own power, make SURE the ramps are secured to the trailer at the top of the ramps, either by pins or with chains. More than once, I have seen un-secured ramps "kick-out" when someone gooses the throttle to get the rear wheels "over the hump" and onto the trailer. The result is the rear-end of the vehicle drops, with the rear wheels hanging in the air behind the trailer, and the vehicle frame resting on the trailer deck. Then you are confronted with the challenge of getting the rear-end of the vehicle jacked-up and putting the ramps back into place. Consider borrowing a "come-along" or purchasing an inexpensive one from Harbor Freight, or a similar place, and pulling teh car onto the trailer... it'll be slow, but you'll have more control over the process. Also get some rubber wheel chocks or 4x4 x 12" wooden blocks to throw under the wheels, to check the forward / backwards movement of the car, so that it "doesn't get away from you".Would also recommend having at least two helpers, one on each side of the car, while you winch it on... Good luck ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plymouthy Adams Posted August 1, 2013 Report Share Posted August 1, 2013 (edited) that is a slow way to do it but will work..friend of mine uses one of these all the time..as for off loading...same thing holds true for rolling off the trailer..set up your spare tires to act as a set of chocks behind the trailer...set them just close enough to allow the vehicle to clear the ramps..you should not gather any great speed in this manner...doing it in stages is a plus..you can place them just for the rear wheels to touch earth..then relocate for the front wheels to clear the ramp.. Edited August 1, 2013 by Plymouthy Adams Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
greg g Posted August 1, 2013 Report Share Posted August 1, 2013 If your MC is working and you know it is the rear brakes that are causing problems, you could cut the line feeding the rears, ad clamp it closed or pull the line from the MC and buy a brass fitting to plug the line going to the rear brakes. This would isolate the flow to the fronts and give you front brakes (which do most of the work anyway). but as nted above a working e brake should do the trick also. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Coatney Posted August 1, 2013 Report Share Posted August 1, 2013 If your front brakes do work, you could pinch off the rear flex line with vice grips thus eliminating the rear brakes and using the front brakes only. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JerseyHarold Posted August 1, 2013 Report Share Posted August 1, 2013 Are there enough people to push the car onto the trailer? Whoever is steering can put the car in second gear and hold the clutch pedal down, then release it when you want to stop. I'd have chocks at the front end of the trailer for extra security. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dodgeb4ya Posted August 1, 2013 Report Share Posted August 1, 2013 I just ran into the same exact situation on a 42 DeSoto. Both front wheel cylinders leaking onto the tires. The car was just sold and needed to be loaded onto the trailer. I filled the M/cyl and thoroughly bled the brakes-1-1/2 pints of DOT3. Not safe to drive all over but had a good firm pedal. 45 minutes and done. All this should work on your car assuming the master cylinder is free and no cups torn and the wheel cylinders are not total stuck. Bob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plymouthy Adams Posted August 1, 2013 Report Share Posted August 1, 2013 (edited) This particular load was a slight downward angle of the trailer and also used the chain and pull along side method using a small Kabota tractor...the use of forward chocks kept the car positioned just where I want it while I secure the vehicle with chains and load binders..only thing with this load is that the wheel base is 13 feet..the frame bottomed on my dove tail trailer prior to the rear wheels coming onto the ramps..but a quick jack up with a set of 4 x 4 blocks allow the car to skid onto the trailer just the couple feet needed for the rear wheels to again lift the frame..went real smooth...I have a flat unload here at home due to the nature of my property line..smooth uneventual offload..while the car did run and drive...I did not want to chance it on the mountain top I was retrieving the car from..its brakes were also not trustworthy.. Edited August 1, 2013 by Plymouthy Adams Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bamfordsgarage Posted August 1, 2013 Report Share Posted August 1, 2013 ..a good long chain and a second car driving close alongside the trailer will pull the vehicle slowly up if you chose not to drive it on..I Whoever is steering can put the car in second gear and hold the clutch pedal down, then release it when you want to stop. I'd have chocks at the front end of the trailer for extra security. If it were me I would do both these things. Easy, effective and sounds like fun. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
suntennis Posted August 1, 2013 Report Share Posted August 1, 2013 Have you considered renting a tow dolly which should be easier to load and unload? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plymouthy Adams Posted August 1, 2013 Report Share Posted August 1, 2013 Have you considered renting a tow dolly which should be easier to load and unload? BAZINGA....another approach..but be sure you will not have need to try and back this sucker along your trip or eventual positioning for offload however..watch sharp turns ...do use a safety chain and do not rely on just the nylon straps Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
De Soto Frank Posted August 1, 2013 Report Share Posted August 1, 2013 Just a quick reminder when working with Fluid Drive MoPars: throwing it in gear will NOT hold the car against the engine. Need to have the hand-brake working or have chocks ready. I just ran into the same exact situation on a 42 DeSoto. Both front wheel cylinders leaking onto the tires. The car was just sold and needed to be loaded onto the trailer. I filled the M/cyl and thoroughly bled the brakes-1-1/2 pints of DOT3. Not safe to drive all over but had a good firm pedal. 45 minutes and done. All this should work on your car assuming the master cylinder is free and no cups torn and the wheel cylinders are not total stuck. Bob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
_shel_ny Posted August 1, 2013 Report Share Posted August 1, 2013 (edited) With a tow dolly be sure that the rear tires/drums/axles/differential are up for a 2 hour ride. Car carrier, parking brake. Get it moved. Edited August 1, 2013 by shel_bizzy_48 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ssnowden Posted August 1, 2013 Author Report Share Posted August 1, 2013 Have you considered renting a tow dolly which should be easier to load and unload? I did, and the 33 year old tires pretty much made me rule that out. I'm hoping they hold air reliably until I get new ones. Loving the ideas guys! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark D Posted August 1, 2013 Report Share Posted August 1, 2013 I broke down and bought AAA Gold - anytime I need it towed, its a freebie and on the back on someone elses insurance if something goes wrong. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ssnowden Posted August 1, 2013 Author Report Share Posted August 1, 2013 Ha. I have the AAA Gold Plus RV already and I'm 92 miles away, which fits under their 100 mile limit. I'm going to check that out! This would be great to have them deal with the tow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plymouthy Adams Posted August 1, 2013 Report Share Posted August 1, 2013 It was always my understanding that the car being towed had to be licensed and insured at the time of the tow... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JerseyHarold Posted August 1, 2013 Report Share Posted August 1, 2013 It was always my understanding that the car being towed had to be licensed and insured at the time of the tow... Very true. One possible way around it wold be to buy a temporary/transit tag from your local DMV. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ssnowden Posted August 1, 2013 Author Report Share Posted August 1, 2013 It has the Historic Motor Vehicle license tag on it. I'd probably want liability insurance on it anyway considering the whole lack of brakes thing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.