greg g Posted August 15, 2013 Report Share Posted August 15, 2013 You might need to drill it oversize, tap it and go a sizu up on one fastener. Check with your machine shop for options. I don't think a helicoil will holt the torque of a head bolt but, maybe they have stuff that will. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plymouthy Adams Posted August 15, 2013 Report Share Posted August 15, 2013 http://www.fulltorque.com/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Young Ed Posted August 15, 2013 Report Share Posted August 15, 2013 Valves are back in, keepers and all and the march up and down nice and quick. I tapped the head treads all went fine but I have one thread hole that is stripped! What to do. There is a product for such but I don't know it's name. Headed for Choir kickoff dinner be back later. Those valve keepers test one's dexterity and patience. I take it you are doing these without the proper installer? As with many jobs they are a piece of cake with the proper tool. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Coatney Posted August 15, 2013 Report Share Posted August 15, 2013 As Ed said the right tool is a must. With the right tool only one hand is required. The trick is to put a dab of grease on the valve stem to hold the keepers in place. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pflaming Posted August 15, 2013 Author Report Share Posted August 15, 2013 Will inquire into the strip thread company from Plymouthy. I do have a valve compressor and yes, once I used a bit of oil, things went better. Will torque the head down tomorrow without the one bolt and test. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DJ194950 Posted August 15, 2013 Report Share Posted August 15, 2013 http://www.fulltorque.com/ Interesting product. Ideas on a cost for just the tools for just 1 head bolt hole Tim? Thanks Doug Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plymouthy Adams Posted August 15, 2013 Report Share Posted August 15, 2013 don't know...don't think they giving it away for sure...just passing this info along....nothing done right is done without some sacrifice be it time, money or combination of both...I know most all of the military heavy equipment is manufactured with inserts from the get go and they stay in place...I have seen them torqued and re-torqued and I have seen them chased with a tap using power tools to drive the tap...most inserts applied proper for their intended use will serve quite well.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DJ194950 Posted August 15, 2013 Report Share Posted August 15, 2013 don't know...don't think they giving it away for sure...just passing this info along....nothing done right is done without some sacrifice be it time, money or combination of both...I know most all of the military heavy equipment is manufactured with inserts from the get go and they stay in place...I have seen them torqued and re-torqued and I have seen them chased with a tap using power tools to drive the tap...most inserts applied proper for their intended use will serve quite well.. Actucualily as with you, I will not assume cheap, but I have read about this co. for many years and they seem to be first class! In years past they have had employees that went everywhere in the world fixing obsolete cast parts with their patented lock n stitch repairs. Locomotives engines in place etc. Seem that they would be a very good place to try! Doug Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pflaming Posted August 15, 2013 Author Report Share Posted August 15, 2013 (edited) Engine 'condition' update. Many of the head bolt holes would not accept bolts. Whatever, I always run a tap into any old thread before I put in a new bolt. That so many of them were "plugged" causes me to think this engine sat for a time without a head. . . Anyway I taped all the threads and all but the one took new head bolts and torqued to 60#. The one torqued to 30#. So compression test: Using the economy tester two cylinders are at 10# the remaining four average at 45#. That is good enough to get it to run. Oil pressure: I have a leaking plastic line orifice yet I got a high 20#. Will get the correct connection tomorrow and with a tight line maybe get 40#. So I am encouraged. I had planned on new rings and balanced pistons, so I holding out hope that the 40# will come. If anyone has suggestions, I'm open. QUESTION: Can I run water from a hose directly into the water pump and a drain hose out to the "alley" and run without a Radiator? Edited August 15, 2013 by pflaming Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
james curl Posted August 15, 2013 Report Share Posted August 15, 2013 I took the head for a Toyota that I used to own to the machine shop and had Heli Coils installed in all of the threaded holes in the head including the spark plugs and never had another problem with threads or bolts working loose. At the time that I had it done it had 89,000 miles on it and I sold it with 330,000 milers on the car and engine. Was not cheap back in the late 80s and with inflation would be high now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DJ194950 Posted August 15, 2013 Report Share Posted August 15, 2013 Best of luck to ya Paul. Hope you have some "decent compression" now, it will get better when run if it's not too bad now. Doug Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JerseyHarold Posted August 16, 2013 Report Share Posted August 16, 2013 Paul, Did you ever get the convertible engine to fire or did you switch cars before trying? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
greg g Posted August 16, 2013 Report Share Posted August 16, 2013 Way back when I busted a head bolt on a 51 Plymouth I had for a lot car and my first driver. I put the head back on and re torqued all the bolts but the broken one. I just stuck the top end of the bolt into the hole. The engine started and ran fine with no problems causes by the broken bolt. I did however get some strange looks and comment from folks looking at the engine. With the engine at idle, the broke bolt would rotate in its place, merrily turning round with increased speed as engine RPM's increased. Kinda like an uncalibrated tachometer....................... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Desotodav Posted August 16, 2013 Report Share Posted August 16, 2013 Looks like you're making good progress Paul. I wouldn't have thought that a Helicoil would have taken the pressure required for a head bolt either. I spotted a wagon like yours in a shed that I was at yesterday (see attached pic). Had a number of old MOPAR's there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pflaming Posted August 16, 2013 Author Report Share Posted August 16, 2013 I put on a good steel oil line and the pressure went up to around 35# on a low battery, so that is very encouraging. Things will slow down now. Got some rebuilding to do: carb, fuel pump, water pump (new), etc. then a start up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave72dt Posted August 16, 2013 Report Share Posted August 16, 2013 10 # and 45# compression with valves that are seating well indicate ring problems and/or cylinder wear. It may fire and run. I personally would prefer to see 100# plus on all cylinders. With the information you have already gleaned from the testing, you may as well tear the motor apart now and fully inspect the internals. Since you're already planning on new rings and a balance, any further work to get the engine started before the rebuild is a going to be a duplication of work and expense not needed. Oil pressure can be affected by brg clearance and cranking it over will not yield the same pressure reading as a running engine. Heli coils will hold engine compression when properly installed. I've used them successfully on aluminum blocks numerous times. A machine shop can install them for you if necessary. You'll need specific measuring tools for checking cyl bore wear so chances are it will aready be at a machine shop for that. Do it right once. You'll be happier with the results than repeatedly delving into the inner workings. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff Balazs Posted August 17, 2013 Report Share Posted August 17, 2013 Hi Paul; Wanted to let you know that I have been keeping an eye on you even though you have gone over to the dark side. What Dave has said x2. Sound advice to be certain. Thought I would throw this out as an alternative. You are probably about ready to switch over to another car project by now so......When I look at this suburban I see something that you could really have some fun with. To me it is begging to be made into a full patina salt flats streamliner. Throw a 440 in ,some tall gearing and a stabilizer fin on the roof and you would really have something. I'd bet if you ask Tim really nice he would help you make a real screamer out of it. Jeff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pflaming Posted August 18, 2013 Author Report Share Posted August 18, 2013 Jeff. Define a "salt flats streamliner" or better yet, get us a pic. I'm waiting for engine parts so starting to clean the surface to see what I really have. So far no surprises. But I have set up fans to take the dust out of the garage. I'm in the back door so much of the car is "outside". I'm not confident on having a surface for a good color patina. I may have to learn how to paint. I like the roll on method. (to be continued) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scruffy49 Posted August 18, 2013 Report Share Posted August 18, 2013 (edited) Hate to tell you Paul, but you're painting that one. Trim Brite, Brite Side, Top Sider, etc yacht paint work really well with a brush or roller if you don't want to drop a few bucks on a spray gun. Rustoleum works fine, Majick and other tractor enamels... My trucks are both Rustoleum "foo foo canned". It works, but chalks up after a few years. Ends up looking like well aged 40s-60s single stage enamels. Single stage from somewhere between 1958 and 1963... Rustoleum Dark Hunter Green, "foo foo canned" in 2005, ruddy brown rack primer brush painted in 2001 when the racks were on a different truck... Edited August 18, 2013 by Scruffy49 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff Balazs Posted August 18, 2013 Report Share Posted August 18, 2013 Paul; I am a bit of a visionary when it comes to this sort of stuff.... ...... here are some ideas........you will have to piece the final image together for yourself. It would be easy though.....chop the top like the Studie.....wheel skirts are a nice touch....strip it down and lighten it where ever possible.......put a stabilizing fin on the roof ........and don't bother with paint..... in fact grind it all off and go shiny. Then go have the time of your life. Jeff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scruffy49 Posted August 18, 2013 Report Share Posted August 18, 2013 Heck, I'd have it on 13" Dayton wires, juiced (hydraulics), fancy paint, mahogany and curly maple headliner... maybe a small bed where the back seat and cargo areas are... My wife would have me living in it. She's madder than a wet cat that I "can't" fix her Subaru Outback (probably can, just don't want to, I hate her car)... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pflaming Posted August 21, 2013 Author Report Share Posted August 21, 2013 Hey guys, I;m just a OLD country boy who can still recall riding a HORSE to grammar school, so these race car conversions are beyond me. In the early mornings, 6:00 a.m., I do things that are quiet. This morning I removed the dash. Under that is/was the heater/defroster air duct. These were made out of paper thus many probably became the material for many a mouse's nest. I carefully removed mine by grinding off the mounting bolt nuts on the fire wall. It may be use able, but if not at least I will know what to replace or how to route the air flow. Any suggestions on how to restore or replace this duct would be appreciated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Coatney Posted August 21, 2013 Report Share Posted August 21, 2013 I was taught in grammer school that horse should not be in caps Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Young Ed Posted August 21, 2013 Report Share Posted August 21, 2013 Paul if that thing is intact I'd coat the outside with some brushed on paint like rustoleum etc and call it good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DJ194950 Posted August 21, 2013 Report Share Posted August 21, 2013 Paul, save all pieces very carefully as I doubt you will every find a good one as that get very brittle with age. The one in my 50 had the top of line heater/defrost with a cardboard or paper type air plenum duct somewhat like yours that I spent many hours recreating one from a sheet metal back side and fiberglass front after fitting the metal back to the car and building a mold from the parts left from the original front cardboard pieces and expanding foam sanded to shape. Glassed over the front to build the part then married to glass part to the steel backplate. Took weeks and a LOT of patience. You may have enough left to creat some type of recreation or just carefully fiberglass over the duct work to support it. Doug Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.