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1954 Plymouth Suburban Project


pflaming

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Top end works nicely. A couple more  brass bushings, shoulder bolts, and swivel head connectors to reduce friction and NICE professional parts willl close this assignment. Will make four complete assemblies. Then find two forum members who will each take one on a thirty day trial agreement.  Interested?

 

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Today started finalizing from the rear bumper forward. I discovered I had to remove and repair thevtail light fixtures. So I decided to use a pair of '54 lights. A two hour task took all afternoon and now I must order a set of lens for the pair. These will look great and now it will also have backup lights! 

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Lens, particularly that backup light clear lens are difficult to find, so plan B. Will use the '53 lens. The mounting bolts are very difficult to access. To avoid fighting rusty connections, I replaced the bolts and nuts. 

 

 

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  • 1 month later...

Update: I've lost most of my wrenching enjoyment so hope to have enough drive to finish the Suburban and sell it. I'm very close, today may finish the floor panels, after that what remains is assembly work and cosmetics. I'm very grateful to those who have shared with me their knowledge of these vehicles and how to repair them. It has been a lot of fun. 

 

Will submit some photos end of the week.

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Car heater. Several years ago I had a very nice delux heater which did not fit behind the dash of my truck, so I traded it fit the small 10" square heater to a friend who. Wanted the delux in his suburban,  and I used the small one.

 

well, now I've been looking for a heater for my Suburban. I found another Square one for $28 and made contact. In the discussion he asked what I was going to use it in.  When I told him, "My '53 Suburban," he then said, "In that case, the heater is free to you! 

 

Interesting hobby.

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Four newly painted rims now have a pair of new 215/75R/15" tires on the six inch rims and a pair of 205/75R/15" on the 5 1/2" rims. The smaller tires and rims on the front. Wow, black walls out, looks fantastic!

 

getting very close to "driver" stage. Getting anxious. My arthritic old body seems to work much better in warmer weather. 

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Paul - pictures please; I'm a fan of "bigs and littles"!

 

I hear you on the warmth; makes what I call my "garage yoga" sessions a bit less of a pain!

Awhile back, did you say you were heading east in April?

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Heading to Maine for the summer early June.  Pictures soon. I'll sell you the Suburban and drive it out! Would fit into your collection.

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Driver's side panel and seat are in. Panel (s) held in by metal screws and pop rivets. Passenger seat must tip forward. Apparatus to do theat loosely shown.

 

i should add, under the 18 gauge panels are 2" X 1/8" flat irons, the bolts to which the seats are attached. Once welded in, they will be very strong. Some use large washers, I prefer this. 

 

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Patchwork quilt. This piece will not be required on future installations. A smaller slot wil be covered by the shifter boot mount.   I hesitate to show much, I'm aware that I'm not conventional, but it will do. Final shift arm not shown. 

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Floor panels / seat detail. This shot shows the pieces I used (1)  to cover the hole I cut to work on the shifter mechanism, (2) the master cylinder reservoir, and (3) the flat iron seat base.

 

(1) that hole will not be required on the next shifter installation and a boot and mount added, (2) I understand I can get a remote reservoir kit to replace this one, for which I looking, (3) and that flat iron will be welded under the panel. Once welded together all metal screws and pop rivets will be removed and holes welded shut. 

 

That bar is for the front and rear seat bolts.

 

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Merle, it is. Its at its futtherust back position. I'll connect a wire and bring it forward. The control switches will be installed then will have all the movements . Should be nice, 2010 Lincoln Towncar seats.

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1 hour ago, pflaming said:

 I'll connect a wire and bring it forward. The control switches will be installed then will have all the movements . Should be nice, 2010 Lincoln Towncar seats.

Maybe, ........ I am putting 1994 Mark viii seats in my '56 Plymouth (and unknowingly) if they have the seat memory position switch door panel  for driver 1, 2, etc then the seat has a microprocessor inside it with many wires, even with a wiring diagram I could not get it to work, I direct wired it from the switch to the motors to get it to move but the seat switches are designed for low current, I am trying to get some relays to work to replace the processor.  (I  hope).

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I fabricated the passenger seat mounts so it will lift and tilt to allow access to the back seat. I will ad gas shocks to help lift andto hold up, similar to a hood lift and hold.

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I will install a dash light and an engine kill switch on the latch so that the seat MUST be locked down for the engine to run.  In some ways it may be a bit of an inconvenience, but so be it. Safety first. 

 

Edit: it's a relief when it fits. The mounts will be lower when properly installed. The seat is in its most reward position, moved forward will increase the opening to the back. 

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