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1954 Plymouth Suburban Project


pflaming

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19 hours ago, pflaming said:

"how did you buckle the roof!"    

 

Just tell anyone who asks this question that my way overweight garage cat jumped up on it there!!  ?

 

DJ

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21 hours ago, Young Ed said:

You had me right until "Working under it, pushing, prying, hammering,  scraping".......

 

metal on metal slides surprisingly easy when pushing, prying, etc.  Use of good jackstands properly placed does not make the situation foolproof.  I saw a 40' trailer frame  come off GOOD stands once when we were having the axle setup changed.  Fortunately the young man working on it was between the axles when it came down and no harm done.  Just exercise caution when underneath these things.

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1 minute ago, Dave72dt said:

 

metal on metal slides surprisingly easy when pushing, prying, etc.  Use of good jackstands properly placed does not make the situation foolproof.  I saw a 40' trailer frame  come off GOOD stands once when we were having the axle setup changed.  Fortunately the young man working on it was between the axles when it came down and no harm done.  Just exercise caution when underneath these things.

I was just implying that Paul wouldn't be doing anything like that and risk his patina

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I never have metal to metal.  I lost a good acquaintance who used two bumper jacks. They slipped and he paid the ultimate price. I also always give what I am lifting a good shake to test the lift. I start easy then put some muscle into it and try to knock it off. The topple I had was because I pushed out a leg, trying to roll the chassis under the body. As it stands now, there is no metal to metal and two of those 4X4's are against the far wall. It's not coming down. 

Edited by pflaming
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So the seal is in the axle tube?  I spect then I'll get a puller.  O'Neils may have a rental.  TKS Merle. 

 

I cleaned,primered, and painted the backing plate. Seals are on order, hopefully assembly tomorrow.

 

frame off formula: 45% disassemble, 45% repair, 10% reassemble. The 10% is the very best part.

IMG_4888.JPG

Edited by pflaming
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I have a banjo type axle housing. What do I release in order to pull the axle? I've been researching this without success. I must pull the axles to change the inner seal and possibly the bearing and race. A picture would be very helpful. 

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I have had good luck with a slide hammer. Others have reported having good luck using the brake drum as a slide hammer. Put it back on loosely, with the nut on a few threads. If that doesn’t work find some spacers to put between the drum and the axle flange, then tighten the drum retaining nut to pull out on the axle shaft. You may need to reset with longer spacers a couple of times before it’s all out. I was able to use some deep well sockets and washers to accomplish that task once. The washers and sockets sit nice over the brake backing plate studs. 

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I did A lot of researching, not one mention of this bolt.  Much like some theologians I know, the knowledgeable ones get all would up in their knowledge that they miss the foundational concept?  And yes, I did not clean that axle as I should have and will now. 

IMG_4891.JPG

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You might not have found anything because it's really just a plug. You can remove it and add grease to the wheel bearings. You can put a fitting in there but be careful-too much and you wreck the seals. 

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So, what holds the axle in?  On the other differential, the oil is let out, the back removed, and a pin is removed via a magnet. Question # 2, what is a floating axle? I've got to find out, tomorrow is axle day.  

 

Where re is my Manual??? 

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Paul, go back to post 811.  The pic Merle posted will show what your axle setup is like.  What you're fighting is the outer brg race.  It's a tight friction fit in the axle housing.  I can't tell you if there are shims between the backing plate and brg race.  The design looks like there should or could be.  If there are, save them.  They're used to set end play on the axle.

 

A floating axle is completely different.  The hub will have the brgs in it as well as the seal and the axle itself will be bolted to the hub.  You'll find them on heavier trucks.  I think the 1 ton and up uses that type of axle.

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Tomorrow the chassis will return to my shop, then I will pull the axles, bearings and seals arrive at the store in the morning. Today I laid out the  body mounts and hardware to be ready for a mid week body on chassis task. Help question, I misplaced one of those red cylinder plungers, does any one have an extra? Also, my cylinder kits have two inner springs; the spring that came out was unique, semmingly to have more tension. Do I mate thevtwo into one and use it that way? 

 

Details starting to drive me nuttier than i already am. 

IMG_4896.JPG

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After a great deal of research and piecing together explanations and illustrations this is how I understand the axle is secured in the housing.  Correct me where/if I'm wrong. 

IMG_4899.JPG

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On 8/17/2018 at 1:46 PM, pflaming said:

 

Where re is my Manual??? 

 

That is a very good question. 

 

Refer to my previous posted picture...

 

1. Hub retaining Nut

2. Brake drum/wheel hub

3. Brake backing plate

4. Axle housing

Between 3 and 4 are shims. No gasket. The shims are used to set the bearing preload upon assembly.

5. Inner seal. (Retains axle oil in the axle housing)

Rear Wheel seal already identified, and noted that it is a dust seal for the bearing

6. Axle shaft

7. Bearing Cup. As noted it is a press fit into the axle tube and is retained by the brake backing plate. The puller is needed to pull the assembly out as this bearing is a tight fit into the housing. 

8. Bearing Cone. This bearing is grease packed like the front wheel bearings. The bearing is press fit onto the axle shaft.

1FA2CCB3-6274-439F-AFBA-A4B2DA9E81B9.jpeg.f7ce6eff00b90fdc0270b34ac0cb475d.jpeg

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