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1954 Plymouth Suburban Project


pflaming

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Stage 2 dash repaint, reattach switches gauges, route and secure. Will lift and install tomorrow. Reinstalling is always more enjoyable that cleaning, repairing,etc.

 

New photo, after viewing my work on photo, I returned and further detailed the wires. This is better.

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Edited by pflaming
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My legs and back are healing so slowly, if at all so that I'm suspending all work on the car for a minimum of 30 days. My knee is pain free but my leg muscles are extremely weak and consequently so is my lower back. It's doesn't seem to be the lifting but the stretching and the contortions that put a lot of sustained stress on legs and back, so a happy new year to all. 

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  • 2 weeks later...

A couple of weeks ago I cut all the body mount bolts so I can remove it from the chassis. So the question is, how do I do that without torquing, twisting the body. I will have a large fork lift so I will be able to lift it. Now how do I get hold of the body, I would guess putting long forks through the door and window openings will not be recommended.

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I spent part of today researching auto body removal. Since I have a rafter held hoist. I will raise the front end with that and raise the back end with jacks, then set the frame on bridged stands.  My building is long enough to roll the chassis forward or backward or entirely out into the alley. So that settles that. The body sans the chassis is not all that heavy. 

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Assuming you hopefully have removed tailgate, doors, and all glass from the body. Previous pictures show them still attached. Combined they weigh a lot. Using the rafters of your type of building is a bit dodgy (no pun intended).  The less weight the better. Just my opinion but do what you want. 

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Robert I will heed your advice and use the building structure sparingly, thus I have decided to raise the body with jacks and set it on secure stands. Seems from what I have read here and elsewhere that puts on the least stress. I have ample room for that and then to attend to the chassis as well. 

 

Thoughts: I have kept all my questions, ideas, and work on this car in this one thread. I spect at times it's been rebuild 101 to most and maybe to some the simplicity of my work is helpful. As I near the end of getting this car on the road, and by no means a trophy build, I have learned that a car rebuild is much more involved than a truck rebuild which I did twice. I hope some new at this as I once was will understand that perfection is not the only criteria in a build yet safety is essential, uncompromising. 

 

People look at restored / rebuilt vehicles for many reasons, many to relive old memories thus the like flathead sixes, for example. So as I reflect for a moment or two, my work has been a mechanical feast, a social experience, a great retirement hobby, and just pure enjoyment. 

 

If i I could do one more cross country trip, I would take a 90 day oval trip around this country and have coffee with as many forum members who would meet with me. Some meetings would be individual, others could be small groups, whichever all would be so enjoyable. 

 

To all this is my happy New Year message to you from my shop.

 

 

Edited by pflaming
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  • 1 month later...

Paul the new tan paint on the Suburban looks better than your truck (one color) but the runs in the paint may take a bit of sanding to get it a Little smoother. :rolleyes:

 

Get well soon!

 

Best to ya,

 

DJ

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  • 2 months later...

Yesterday, Adam p15d24 from San Bruno, dropped by on his way to Bakersfield. He showed me how to remove the body from the frame by raising the entire car by the frame,  block up the body, then lower the chassis and remove it. So today I raised the car, tomorrow I will block up the body, lower the chassis and roll it out. I'm slowly getting back to the shop but have to really pace myself. 

 

Once the chassis is back in my shop, then I can clean the frame, run fuel and brake lines, install the exhaust pipe and muffler, fix the rear brakes all from above. Wish me luck. I must finish this car and move on.

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39 minutes ago, RobertKB said:

 

Luck! You may find you will need new body rubbers once he body is removed. They are available. Check all body mounts for possible damage and needed repair.

 

 

All rubber body mounts will be replaced. I will remove the steering wheel post to eliminate that clearance problem. 

To be continued. . . .

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You're getting there. I certainly hope, though, that you are going to support the body better than it is now. I certainly wouldn't work underneath the body with the supporting apparatus it now has. Also the one wooden support beam seems to be sitting under a pretty rotten rocker. Safety first. Cars can be replaced but your life can't. Good luck with the project.

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1 hour ago, pflaming said:

Yes! A strong, sturdy support system is under construction.

 

Good to hear. Looks like you left the steering column in so I assume the body is high enough so it will clear. Guessing that is why no rims on the front also. Just curious.

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It was easy to remove the steering gear box and eliminate that possibly catching when I roll the frame out. 

 

Robert I cut two of my saw bucks down to a height I needed and that gave me some very sturdy body stands. It was a chore, but now I can do proper work on that frame. 

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