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1949 Busy Coupe Update


falconvan

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I cut down the original column today and made a piece to hold a lower bearing. I'm moving the column over and down a bit which is ok because now it's centered with the gauges. It looks like I will get by with just two u-joints; one at the end of the column and one on the rack. Now I need to build a column drop and cut the shaft for a trial fit.

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How similar is the 49 and 48 frame? Looks to be the same. I ask because I am putting in a 383/727 in my 48 and would like to use a lot of what you have posted for reference as far as motor mounts, cross member,  and R/P install. I'd like to get the motor/trans mocked in before I send the short block to the machine shop. Its hard for me to even guess where the engine mounts should go. Never done all this before. Just reading all the books I can and learning on the way. 

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How similar is the 49 and 48 frame? Looks to be the same. I ask because I am putting in a 383/727 in my 48 and would like to use a lot of what you have posted for reference as far as motor mounts, cross member,  and R/P install. I'd like to get the motor/trans mocked in before I send the short block to the machine shop. Its hard for me to even guess where the engine mounts should go. Never done all this before. Just reading all the books I can and learning on the way.

I'm also doing a 48 that I have a Chevy LS motor in, there is a thread on here for it. If You look at that one it's pretty close to what you are doing.
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Yeah, you're right. I was thinking you were taking about a Chevy 383. I wuz corn-fused. I think the frames in the front are nearly identical. If I remember right, the rear frame rails are a little wider on the 48. Mocking everything first it a great plan. I'd have the radiator, fan, and pulleys you're going to use when you do your setup so you know how far the motor needs to go back and see if you need to modify the firewall.

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I was wondering if that threw you off haha. No Bowtie power for me. I don't have the radiator but I do have the pulleys and I am planning on electric fans. I will see if I can find a junk radiator just to use for mock up that's the size I need. You modified the SHO engine mounts you made to reuse on the 400 right?

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Yes, I originally made them out of some 3" x 1/4" thick angle iron and some 1/4" thick steel plate. You'll probably have to end up doing something with your firewall. On the 49 I boxed a section and set it back but on my 48 I sliced it horizontally across the peaked portion, layed the upper and lower pieces flat, and welded it back together.

Edited by falconvan
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The way I did it on this car definitely came out looking nicer in the end. I don't think either way was any easier than the other. A couple of invaluable tools for doing old car sheet metal work:

MIG welder preferably with a gas bottle

Sheet metal brake 36"

Sheet metal shears electric and hand

90 degree grinder with some cutoff wheels

90 degree air sander with 2" Roloc discs

Of course you don't have to have all that as there are always multiple ways to accomplish different tasks but I use all of these a lot. And of course don't forget heavy gloves, safety glasses, and boots. That hot glob of weld going through the top of your tennis shoes really smarts when it burns into your toe!

Edited by falconvan
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Done, all back together and turns smooth with no binding. Not sure if I can use the steering wheel; now that I lowered it, it might be too big and be sitting right on my lap. I'll know when I put the seat in. Should be able to put the front clip back on next and start piping the cooling system.

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I got the front clip back on in the last couple of days and have been working on little things like getting the shift cable mounts lined out, changed the leaky pinion seal, plus other misc items. I really lucked out; I was afraid the inner fender wells I built for the SHO motor wouldn't fit around the Mopar engine but they worked out great.

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