squirebill Posted July 18, 2013 Author Report Share Posted July 18, 2013 Keven B1B.....Monday of this week, Post number 48 above, you offered to get some photos of your clutch set up. Based on the findings since then I don't think the photos will be necessary. Appreciate your offer and thanks for considering it. Best regards. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dodgeb4ya Posted July 18, 2013 Report Share Posted July 18, 2013 This is a factory Early at least up to 1952 flywheel bolt. One side is flat to fit against a machined stop on the crank flange. I don't think the later 6 or 8 bolt 230 cranks have this stepped crank flange. It is hard to hold the head of this bolt when fitted to the non matching crank with the machined step! Actually a wrench will hold it. I'm not sure if this is the style of bolts on your engine. Bob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
squirebill Posted July 18, 2013 Author Report Share Posted July 18, 2013 Once again, looks like the wrong part trying to be used in the wrong place. My crank shaft flange has the step and looks like the bolt pictured above would work great. The bolts I have don't have the flat cut on the head so a small portion of the bolt head is sitting on top of the step on the flange with the rest of the head in contact with nothing. So this gets me back to the question: Is there enough room between the flange and the engine to push the bolts back towards the engine and get them out? Further to this: any body know where I might be able to get the four correct bolts required? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
squirebill Posted July 24, 2013 Author Report Share Posted July 24, 2013 OK guys....as recommended above I sent the clutch components off the Tennessee Clutch and Supply. Sent them out last Wednesday from the post office, Priority Mail,(if it fits, it ships) for $16 plus change and then insured for $200, came to $19 plus change. Got notification it was delivered to Tennessee Clutch on Friday. Today the clutch was received by me. I have to tell you, do not hesitate to use this company for your clutch requirements. I was expecting a relined clutch disc and the clutch assembly to have the fingers adjusted .200 inches high to account for the cut down flywheel discussed above. What I received was a new clutch disc, a new throwout bearing installed on the sleeve, a pilot bearing, an alignment tool, and a completely rebuilt clutch assembly with new springs, adjusting nuts and the pressure plate resurfaced or it may be a new one. Randall at Tennessee Clutch obviously knows his business and does quality work. He quoted the work at $75 plus $21 shipping, totaled out at $96 plus change. There was a note with the packing slip that I could just send him a check!!!!! Who works like this nowadays. Gotta say it was a pleasure and a very quick and easy transaction. Am amped to get it installed. Will advise. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B1B Keven Posted July 24, 2013 Report Share Posted July 24, 2013 Keven B1B.....Monday of this week, Post number 48 above, you offered to get some photos of your clutch set up. Based on the findings since then I don't think the photos will be necessary. Appreciate your offer and thanks for considering it. Best regards. You're welcome. Sounds like you're headed in the right direction! Let me poke around, I might have those bolts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
squirebill Posted July 24, 2013 Author Report Share Posted July 24, 2013 Done and done. Installed the components I got back from Tennessee Clutch. The clutch fingers, as requested, were adjusted .200" high to compensate for the .200" that was machined off the face of the flywheel by a previous owner. The disc supplied by Tennessee Clutch was a different configuration than the one I sent to them and the vibration springs actually sat below the disc wear surface (on the flywheel side) by .140 inches. This meant that if the disc wore down to the point where the rivets hit the flywheel(.060") there would still be .080" clearance between the springs and the flywheel mounting bolts. So I just left the bolts alone. Installed the transmission and E brake. Was able to adjust the 1" freeplay at the clutch pedal. Started engine and shifted through all gears with no grinding. Seems to be working as it is supposed to. Problem solved. Thanks all for all your input and suggestions. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B1B Keven Posted July 24, 2013 Report Share Posted July 24, 2013 Yay!!! Go have a beer!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
seabee1950 Posted July 24, 2013 Report Share Posted July 24, 2013 Mario Gallegos Clutches for all types of vehicles CLASSICS, Vintage, Stock, Hot Rods, Custom, Foreign, Trucks mariogallegos1957@hotmail.com 6926 27th ,Riverside Ca.92509 951 368 8156 360 8614 I bought my clutch for my 1950 Plymouth for 100.00 this was the Clutch disk, Pressure Plate, Throw out bearing, Input bushing and it is a great set oh yes he ships USPS and its COD my total was 125.00 and that was from Calf to AZ and no return. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TFC Posted June 15, 2018 Report Share Posted June 15, 2018 Having clutch issues and came across this old post that fits my problem almost exactly. One difference is that my truck has a 10" disc not the 11". Finally got my B3B started for the first time, could not get it in gear/grinding gears/trouble getting the clutch to disengage. During my work on this truck I did replace the disc and was able to get 1 inch free play in the pedal( although the adjustment was set all the way at the end). Finally did manage to get the clutch to work a bit by starting the truck in gear with the clutch pedal down, this did free it up enough to shift gears and scoot up and down the road for my first run in this vehicle(I really needed that after all the time I've spent working on this one). I did notice when I depressed the clutch there was a "rubbing" noise when the pedal was to the floor. Decided it was best to stop and check-out what was happening. Found the rubbing noise is the clutch plate arms brushing the springs on the clutch disc, ouch! I also found that my flywheel is .875 thick, and from this thread sounds like it was 1.300 thick when new. Find it hard to believe that this flywheel has had 1/2 inch removed over the years. Best to look for a newer/better flywheel right? Any advice gladly accepted. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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