SpecialK Posted July 18, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 18, 2014 (edited) Now i have fixed the pulley. I turn the outer diameter on a lathe 1,5mm. Then I make a sleeve with a 0,05mm smaller diameter on a cnc milling machine I freeze the pulley and put the parts together. I think the result is ok Edited July 18, 2014 by GermanP15 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SpecialK Posted July 18, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 18, 2014 (edited) Is it useful to change the Crankshaft Bearing Oil Seal?How many work is it? Must the Crankshaft out of the engine? The Picture dont look so. Edited July 18, 2014 by GermanP15 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
greg g Posted July 18, 2014 Report Share Posted July 18, 2014 There were two styles of main bearing seal available, one was an imprenated braided cord style, and the other more modern neoprene style shown in your picture. Is your's leaking? Leaks are pretty typical, so it becomes a matter of how bad the leak is, and how bad you want to correct the leak. Both styles are said to be replaceable without pulling the engine, or crankshaft. In practice I doubt either one has been done successfully by an armature / hobbyist mechanic. I have had experience with both styles. I had a 218 engine that leaked badly it had the rope style seal. The crank was removed and sent out to be spray welded as there was a wear groove from the seal. The welding was done then the crank was machined back to factory spec. The crank was replaced with a new rope seal. It leaked, not as bad, but still leaked. The second was with a neoprene style during a rebuild. Crankshaft was fine and at factory spec when reassembled with a new seal. It leaks, not as bad, but still a leak. So I would say that I would not attempt to replace either style with the engine in place as I can not see how that style of repair could be effective as doing it with the crank removed and having total access to the area to do the job, without trying to fish the new seal into a tight space without ruining the new seal. That represents my experience, others may be more skilled or have more experience with the technique. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Desotodav Posted July 18, 2014 Report Share Posted July 18, 2014 If I read right Thomas, your engine is still out of the car. It would be easier to replace the seal while the engine is out (as Greg said). I replaced the rear engine seal in my 218 engine recently while the engine was out. The picture you showed from your car manual above was of the neoprene style seal. I used a Felpro seal (photo attached) and have had no further oil leak from the rear of my engine since. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SpecialK Posted July 31, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 31, 2014 Thanks.I have ordered the felpro seal.Today i want to install the chain case cover. But i think the chain - play is very big. I measured 13mm. In the manual of the car i can´t find something about it. Can I tighten the chain? [/url]">http:// [/url]">http://http://www.fotos-hochladen.net/view/20140725165247dbc60jwn5y.jpg'> Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DJ194950 Posted July 31, 2014 Report Share Posted July 31, 2014 No, sorry! Time for new sprockets and chain. Not hard to find and somewhat not too expensive. At least here in the states. Understand shipping and taxes make it way worse for you. Check the resources-links on this forum for sellers friendly to the forum! DJ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joe Flanagan Posted August 1, 2014 Report Share Posted August 1, 2014 I had about the same amount of play in my chain. I replaced the chain and both sprockets and there was much less. Try Roberts Motor Parts or Vintage Power Wagons, just to start with. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SpecialK Posted August 1, 2014 Author Report Share Posted August 1, 2014 thanks guys, I will do. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SpecialK Posted August 14, 2014 Author Report Share Posted August 14, 2014 (edited) I ordered a new Timing chain and the sprockets. I hope it comes next week. Unfortunately i found no description in my manual how to fix it.Does anyone have one?An other problem: [/url]">http://http://www.fotos-hochladen.net/view/getriebe011ucobafq6w.jpg'> The bushing is in the Motorblock how many play can have this? I think I have ca. 0,5mmSorry for my bad englich - i think the pics explain more Edited August 14, 2014 by GermanP15 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lloyd Posted August 15, 2014 Report Share Posted August 15, 2014 If I read right Thomas, your engine is still out of the car. It would be easier to replace the seal while the engine is out (as Greg said). I replaced the rear engine seal in my 218 engine recently while the engine was out. The picture you showed from your car manual above was of the neoprene style seal. I used a Felpro seal (photo attached) and have had no further oil leak from the rear of my engine since. Excuse me for stepping in. Sounds like your hands are full but where do you order the Felpro rear seal? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lloyd Posted August 15, 2014 Report Share Posted August 15, 2014 Never mind, I found it. Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SpecialK Posted August 15, 2014 Author Report Share Posted August 15, 2014 okI have ordered bei ebay.com. Here is the Link: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Engine-Crankshaft-Seal-Kit-Rear-Fel-Pro-BS-6300-/351130605249?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item51c103d6c1&vxp=mtrYes the Engine is out of car - so the replacement was easy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SpecialK Posted August 20, 2014 Author Report Share Posted August 20, 2014 Hey Guys,a friend told me that when changing the timing chain and sprockets it is better to turn the chain one tooth further- Because the stretching of the chain.what do you think about it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plymouthy Adams Posted August 20, 2014 Report Share Posted August 20, 2014 (edited) when replacing chain and gears as a new set..align the timing marks as normal as there is no stretch or wear to compensate for..moving it off a tooth off in either direction will greatly affect the valve timing in relation to the piston position when at TDC. Edited August 20, 2014 by Plymouthy Adams 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joe Flanagan Posted August 20, 2014 Report Share Posted August 20, 2014 I ordered a new Timing chain and the sprockets. I hope it comes next week. Unfortunately i found no description in my manual how to fix it. Does anyone have one? An other problem: [/url]">http:// The bushing is in the Motorblock how many play can have this? I think I have ca. 0,5mm Sorry for my bad englich - i think the pics explain more Thomas, if you are referring to the pilot bushing, which is pressed into the back end of the crankshaft, I don't know that there is any specification for clearance. Since you have the engine out, you should replace the bushing. If you have difficulty, there are several posts about it on the forum. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave72dt Posted August 20, 2014 Report Share Posted August 20, 2014 In your post # 55, you can see the timing marks on the gears, about 4 o'clock on the cam and 9 on the crank gear. These need to line up in a center line between the center of the camshaft and the center of the crankshaft when installing new gears and chain. That puts the camshaft in the correct relationship to the crank. Moving the gear a tooth is a very radical change and will create all sorts of issues. Race engine builders may move the cam timing a degree or two for a specific application and it's always a tradeoff, something gained somewhere for a loss of something somewhere else. Moving it a tooth is way more than a degree or two. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SpecialK Posted August 20, 2014 Author Report Share Posted August 20, 2014 Hey guys,thanks for your posts. This forum is great. I learn a lot!the pilot bushing is out of the engine. I will make a new one in the next days.@ timing chaini will take the original position, i dont wanna have a race engine. I´m happy when it runs the timing chain and cam-sprocket is out but the crank-sprocket is very hard. I broke my pullersI will try it tomorrow again Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plymouthy Adams Posted August 20, 2014 Report Share Posted August 20, 2014 (edited) the pilot bush is oilite..it should be of the same material...you cannot drill ollite but instead have to cut on a lathe..remember to soak it in oil..do not grease..grease will plugs the pores.. trivia............ Oilite is a porous bronze or iron alloy commonly impregnated with an oil lubricant and used in bearings. The original Oilite and Oilite Plus are bronze alloys, while Super Oilite and Super Oilite 16 are iron-based. Oilite was developed by Chrysler in 1930 Edited August 20, 2014 by Plymouthy Adams 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SpecialK Posted August 22, 2014 Author Report Share Posted August 22, 2014 ok. Thanks for the info.I do not know that material in Germany. I want use a normal brass or bronze alloy.That should work also, do you not think so? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joe Flanagan Posted August 22, 2014 Report Share Posted August 22, 2014 I imagine it is used in Germany but under a different name. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joe Flanagan Posted August 22, 2014 Report Share Posted August 22, 2014 (edited) Here is a place in the UK that makes them. http://www.bowman.co.uk/products/oilite Edited August 22, 2014 by Joe Flanagan 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sebastiano Posted August 26, 2014 Report Share Posted August 26, 2014 good Morning,I'm in Italy and I have a P8, the car was in good condition but I wanted to completely disassemble the entire body and the entire engine and after refit, with a careful restoration of every single element.I send you a picture the body was dropped from the frame and I think that any type of repair is possible, it is important that the lines of the car is not affected, otherwise you'd need the template,the proposal of a member of the UK is very good.Regards, Sebastian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SpecialK Posted August 28, 2014 Author Report Share Posted August 28, 2014 The pic looks great.You make a good job!I also think that a car with over 50years never dies.Thanks for your post. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SpecialK Posted September 4, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 4, 2014 Hey guys,Does anyone know how much oil is in a long block engine?In the manual stands 5 qts, but i think its for short block.I think in a long block engine must be more oil!? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Coatney Posted September 4, 2014 Report Share Posted September 4, 2014 My long block Desoto engine equipped with a full flow oil filter takes six quarts. Without the full flow filter five quarts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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