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1953 Flathead Timing Help


53Cranbrook

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Hey here is my new issue. I have a 53 Hydrive Cranbrook that I cant get started. I have the motor at TDC and thr rotor button isnt pointing to 7 oclock, it is at 6 and 12 oclock which would be 180 out. how do I get it lined up to drop in at 7 oclock on the distributor ? Any help would GREATLY be appreciated !

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As Plymouthy said, does not need to point at 7. That is evidenced by the fact that the engine starts and runs. Just a maintenance convenience. Common reference point for subsequent maintenance/owners.

 

If it ain't broke, don't fix it rule of thumb applies, but if you must. Some must :)

 

Again as Plymouthy said, indexed with the oil pump.

 

Pics and text.

 

Static timing and road timing procedures in Tech Tips:

 

http://p15-d24.com/page/p15d24/tech/tech_tips.html#static

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Shel, you should post this information in the reference/downloads section of this webpage.

And who would go there to read it :P:D:cool:

 

EDIT: It is likely in everyone's manual. :rolleyes:

Edited by shel_bizzy_48
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I have the book and the books all say 7 oclock is #1 at TDC. Well im at TDC and the rotor is pointing straight down. I already made sure the timing gears are lined up and I had the head off to make sure nothing was stuck. When I flip the dist. 180 degrees it points to noon. Can I move the #1 plug to the terminal at 6 oclock on the dist. and run the firing order clockwise from there ?

Edited by 53Cranbrook
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I had the exact same problem after a rebuild on my '48 P15.  After a lot of messing about I took the oil pump out and indexed it properly - it was one tooth out.  Car started first time.  Try the work arounds but my advice is get the pump right.

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No, I never pulled the pump yet. I had the timing chain cover off and lined evrything up. But never once thought about the oil pump. Weather is going to be nice tomorrow so I will pull it and advance it a tooth and see what happens. Thanks for the info and I will let you know what it does

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  • 3 weeks later...

As Don said, make sure you are on the compression stroke.

 

I put my oil pump back in, and was sure I was at TDC compression, but the distributor tang must have been slightly off, rode on the oil pump, and dropped in 180 out.

 

Once I had the piston on what I thought was the compression stroke, I put a piece of masking tape over the plug hole, and turned the engine with the fan. When the tape blew off I knew it was on compression. Masking tape is a substitute for a thumb when you don't have an extra hand.

 

 

 

In line spark tester will tell you that you have spark.

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  • 5 years later...

Thanks for the info and to Shelney, Don et al for posting the information. It just shows valuable these posts are and how grateful guys like me are for people sharing their knowledge. I had similar problems on my Chrysler Kew 2.7 (Plymouth PE Deluxe) after some engine work. I thought i had all the marks lined up, oil pump, crank pulley, rotor cap etc. But after getting her going i could not get the timing back to near the 6 or 8 degrees mark as i ran out of adjustment counter clockwise. I took the oil pump out again and reset the indexing as per Shelneys post. Took a little fiddling to get the Dizzy & rotor reseated but got it eventually and managed to get the timing adjustment back. Can anyone advise as to what is the correct timing at idle (tickover) using a timing light for these motors. I used the vacuum gauge on the carb and the needle sits in the middle of the green range so the carb seems pretty good. 

Edited by MickO
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