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P15 Windshield Replacement


larryconnors

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Today I flirted with replacing the windshield glass in my P15.  A local auto glass store that is part of a chain offered to do the labor for $250 if I bought the glass and the gasket. They would not be responsible if the glass breaks during installation. After careful consideration, and checking my wallet, I decided to leave this project to do in my garage this winter. How tough a job is this to do? Do I need to go to a glass company or can I  do it myself ? Did they offer me a good deal or is this an auto glass chain store price? The problem with the windshield is that it is cloudy around the edges. The girl at the glass place asked me when it happened. I told her gradually over the past 66 years.

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Today I flirted with replacing the windshield glass in my P15.  A local auto glass store that is part of a chain offered to do the labor for $250 if I bought the glass and the gasket. They would not be responsible if the glass breaks during installation. After careful consideration, and checking my wallet, I decided to leave this project to do in my garage this winter. How tough a job is this to do? Do I need to go to a glass company or can I  do it myself ? Did they offer me a good deal or is this an auto glass chain store price? The problem with the windshield is that it is cloudy around the edges. The girl at the glass place asked me when it happened. I told her gradually over the past 66 years.

If they won't guarantee the installation,why would you pay them to do the work? I had a glass shop tell me the same thing once,and my reply to them was "I can break it at home myself for free,so why would I pay you to do it?"

 

These two piece windsields are pretty easy to replace. Especially if you lube the rubber up a bit with soapy water when installing it all.  Any time you are installing glass it never hurts to have another pair of hands helping you unless you are a pro.

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Pretty good wages for less than an hour's work and not guarenteeing anything.  It's not a bad job, having a helper around at the time is nice.  Depending on your confidence level, you can do it or have them do it.  Typical price for installing glass someone salvages from another car or brings in for install.   If the glass was for something much newer with readily available replacements, they might have guarenteed it but so much of the older glass is hard to come by and pricey when they find it, they won't stand behind replacement when the break it.

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I'll add this to the discussion, only due to personal experience. We replaced the windshield in my P15 using new glass cut at a local glass shop, and a new Steele gasket. My helpful brother-in-law was experienced at this process, so actually installing it was no problem. The passenger side glass seemed a little snug, but went in OK. Installed the windshield garnish, and looked great. Went back out to the garage about an hour later, and there was a crack about half-way across the passenger side glass. Removed it, and back to the glass shop I go. Had another piece cut, only this time just a little bit smaller, so the fit was better. This time all was OK. Don't overdo tightening the screws in the windshield garnish...snug is enough. That may have been part of my problem. Anyway, all is OK now, but my heart sunk when I spotted that crack.

Wayne

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Larry,

 

It's going to rain tonight and tomorrow.  I got the rubber glued today (butt joints on the ends) and will give it another day to set.  We all start out knowing the same amount about these cars and we learn where we can, and if I can contribute then I shall.  Besides, I've had my car (Pigiron) off the road so long some of the guys are beginning to doubt she exists so a few pictures are in order.

 

-Randy

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Watching this thread with interest as this task lies ahead of me as well. A year ago I found an advert on craigslist for a '46 plmouth windshield and hubcap two towns over from mine, so I went and bought them both for $15-. Windshield seems to have been taken out of a car in 1958 as evidenced by the safety inspection sticker. But since its old its a perfect match for the car and I wont have to replace both sides. I dont want to Hi-jack the thread, but can one side be removed and replaced at a time or do both pieces need to be removed and reset? Maybe it would be wiser to go for a new gasket and reset both pieces?

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It's not that difficult to do. Remember you remove and install the glass from inside the car
unlike most other cars. You can have new glass cut by a good shop, take your old glass
to use as a pattern. Make SURE the new glass is the same size as the glass you take out.
If you don't it's next to impossible to put in. If an old Chevy rep can in install Mopar glass then
anyone can. Sure beats $250.00......

Today I flirted with replacing the windshield glass in my P15.  A local auto glass store that is part of a chain offered to do the labor for $250 if I bought the glass and the gasket. They would not be responsible if the glass breaks during installation. After careful consideration, and checking my wallet, I decided to leave this project to do in my garage this winter. How tough a job is this to do? Do I need to go to a glass company or can I  do it myself ? Did they offer me a good deal or is this an auto glass chain store price? The problem with the windshield is that it is cloudy around the edges. The girl at the glass place asked me when it happened. I told her gradually over the past 66 years.

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I took my old windshield pieces to a small local glass shop..........had him use the clear glass..........could have had tinted if desired.

 

I think he charged me $57 for the pair and they seem to be the same size as the originals.  Son in law will put them in with the

new Steele gasket I bought.  Hopefully no problems will arise.........but it's "wait and see".  

 

I would suggest a new rubber gasket as mine leaked because it was old and brittle.  Steele is the most expensive, but

everyone says theirs is the best product.  

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  • 5 years later...

Resurrecting an old thread.... Anyone have any experience with Bob's Classic Autoglass? I came across a deal online for a pair of windshields and a gasket that is mighty tempting for my '48 Club Coupe. 

Any input would be greatly appreciated

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   The flat glass as in this version of car’s usually safety glass (basically – a sheet of clear plastic in between 2 sheets of glass) vs tempered glass. Safety glass is easily cut – I’ve done it several times on cars with chopped tops. Grinding the cut edges to remove any sharp edges that can cut you more easily, and hang up on the rubber upon installation, is highly recommended.

    Tempered glass (which most curved glass is), however, can’t be cut in the “traditional” manner – it shatters into small pieces (but, tempered glass can be ground down – we used to do this in the back of the building “back in the day” – 1 guy using a body grinder with a fine-grit disc, and another with a garden hose to keep the glass cool). The key’s to not rush the job. Go too fast, the glass gets too hot, and it’s “goodbye” glass, and you get to start all over again. If the grinder tips, and the glass “chunks”, it’s “goodbye” glass, and you get to start all over again (that’s the voice of experience you’re hearing . . .).

   On the ’54 Pontiac, the windshield’s curved, and no glass shop would guarantee the installation, as glass mounted in a rubber channel’s “old school”, and most contemporary glass shops don’t have any experience with such. We lucked out, as there’s a glass shop not too far from us that does such installations on semi-trucks (which he said is the norm for them), and he does a lot of antiques and street-rods. His price was $100 – at our location, and we had to provide at least 1 helper (that was me . . .). He used plenty of liquid lubricant, and a very smooth pull cord. The job took about 1½ hour, went without a hitch, and was the best $100 my neighbor ever spent!!!

Edited by DrDoctor
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Hey Guys,

I am going to take a whack at replacing both windshields. I will be ordering Glass from Bob's out west along with a new Steele Gasket...

Here's my first question for the "The Smart Guys".... How do I get the Stainless Trim in the old gasket out without damaging it?

What size does the cord need to be when I go to install the new gasket and windshields? 

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Bobby,

   I don’t know about the “smart guys” part. I’ll admit to being very highly educated, but “education” doesn’t always have a positive correlation to “smart”. With that being said – my personal experience (emphasizing “My” for the nay-sayers out there) to your 1st question – take the glass out 1st, and if you’re replacing it, just break it out. Then, the trim comes out of its channel. Install it in the new rubber’s channel, and then install the rubber on the car, and then the glass into its channel. My answer to your 2nd question – the pull-rope should be just abit smaller than the channel the glass is imbedded into. Also, it should be smooth, to facilitate reinstallation. Further, don’t be shy with the lubricant. If you don’t have lubricant, liquid dish soap works just fine.

   Some points to remember – if you’re not reusing the glass, just kick it outwards from the inside. It’s advisable to hit the glass with a hammer, so it’ll “fold” rather than try to come out of the channel in one big flat piece (which might compromise the trim imbedded in the rubber)/ Put a blanket, or similar covering, on the hood and front fenders to prevent damage to the finish. If the car’s not in its finished paint, then don’t worry about it. Reinstalling the glass is usually easier from the bottom to the top, so you’re not fighting the weight of the glass as you go. Put the pull-rope in the channel with the ends meeting in the middle at the top. Pull both ends, which should pull the rubber inwards, and drawing the glass into the channel. Also, you should put the glass into the channel from the outside as much as possible (typically the bottom, and maybe ½ of the sides). Enlist the aid of at least 1 person. Get some hard nylon window tools (Mac’s Antique Parts – an Eckler’s company, has them, and they’re not expensive.). Lastly – patience, patience, patience!!! And, if in doubt – Stop immediately, and regroup.

   Best of luck . . .

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Windshield has to be laminated glass. Gently remove any piece covering a joint in the trim at the center or corners and then remove the longer strips. There is a channel in the rubber that holds the stainless in place. The cord you use should be about 1/4" and make sure and file off any snags on the pinch weld that will damage the new gasket.

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Thanks for the quick reply guys!!! Everyone thing I have seen so far says to install the glass in the rubber and then install from the inside and use the cord to install the whole mess together onto the pinch weld. I am looking forward to some "stress reduction" kicking out the cracked junk in there now. This should help saving the exterior Stainless

I have reached the age where I should start taking a good Dr.'s advise so I thought I would tray and clarify. This is from Steele....Is it accurate on a '48 club coupe?

 

Steele Instructions.pdf

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Bobby,

   Curiosity, and my empirical training – I got my neighbor to call the glass shop to ask them a question for me – specifically: does the glass go into the rubber, and then that assembly goes into the car’s opening, or does the rubber go into the cars opening, and then the glass goes into the rubber. The answer he got – could be either, dependent upon the car/truck, flat/curved glass. I’m no glass expert by any means, but this guy’s been in that business longer than I’ve been in healthcare, so I’ll defer to his expertise. I read the material from Steele, and it makes total sense to me, so I’d guess that if the rubber was installed first with the glass immediately thereafter, the rubber would have to be securely glued in place, or the whole thing would be a constantly shifting mess. However, I’m still left with the question of which method – glass in the rubber first, or rubber in the car’s opening first – and I’m going to leave that question alone, because I don’t plan on ever doing such a task myself anytime soon. Regards . . .

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Use your Service Manual. It should have a section in there for just this operation. I did and used a couple of helpers, I call Petey and Henry (a couple of 2" X 4"s') to hold the Front windshield in place while I pulled the String to make the Rubber meet the Weld for the front glass, I did the rear window with the help of my wife (Patti). 20 minutes each. You won't break nothing just go slow. I used the Steel Rubber products and lots of soapy water to make it slip right into place. easy peasy. I did my neighbors 1970 BMW also front and back windows in about 30 minutes. That included us drinking a beer to celebrate. By the way Glass is in the rubber - push in from interior for both front and rear glass pull strings from outside while applying moderate pressure from the inside it will pop right into place. Breaking the old glass to get it out is not sensible and will make a big mess in addition to possibly cutting yourself. This should all be outlined in your service manual. Back window with Chrome strip goes in last. Front window with Chrome strip never gets removed.

Tom

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Thanks Tom...

I do not have a Service Manual but I will post my experience  as I go through the adventure in case it is of value to the next guy... I am sure it will be good for a laugh at any rate!!!

Thanks to EVERYONE for the input. 

 

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Hi Bobby

i got all of my glass for my B3B pickup from Bob’s Classic Autoglass, I was very happy with the fit and the quality. The windshield is laminated safety glass, all other windows are tempered safety glass. Good luck

Bill

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  • 1 month later...

So I need to replace the front glass in my '48 P15.  Up to this point I have already removed the broken glass and dried rubber seal.  I have cleaned the pinch weld and applied a bit of fresh paint to the whole thing, so all of that is prepped and ready.  Now I've read about all the posts, including this one, that I can find regarding the upcoming install and I am finding  myself with a couple questions.  I know how to install, using the line, soap or other lube, do it from the inside and so on.  I am going to do it myself at home in my own shop as all of the local glass guys around here liken this procedure to a heart valve replacement; financially speaking.  I'm not able to pay what they ask: simple.  So before I actually read all of the posts I mentioned I actually went ahead and ordered a rubber seal from Andy Bernbaum.  It's a rubber from the roll type deal, not exact length,  with a separate center bar. However it is pretty well the exact profile as the original.  My question is how exactly do I install this seal.  Do I put it together, glass and all and glue everything together? Do I have to cut shorter than needed a stretch or vice versa? Or do I simply install 1 side, then the bar, and the the other side? Or is there another tried and true method? After reading all the opinions I wish I had bought the Steele one piece deal but not knowing better at the time I bought what I bought because I paid 109CAD as opposed to, I believe , around 300CAD.   Now I do have 3M weatherstrip sealant and know where that goes but if somebody suggest that the whole deal has to be assembled then what do I use to join the pieces together? Perhaps if somebody answers these questions then we will have effectively created an all inclusive "how to" for this procedure.  

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   The only real problematic piece of glass in a P-15 (vis-à-vis replacement) in the entire car’s the rear one. The remainder of the glass in a P-15’s flat laminated glass, so if they break it, they can just cut another one right there. I certainly wouldn’t use an old piece of flat glass, as it’s probably beginning to de-laminate, or it will soon. Tempered glass will typically shatter when attempting to cut it (altho’ I’ve ground windshields, and rear glass, and side glass, all tempered, with a fine disc on a body grinder and a garden hose to keep the glass cool, the key in this process is patience, patience, and more patience). In your case, it’s not  nearly this complicated, but rather a straight-forward installation. the secret in this installation is to grind the sharp edges off of the cuts, use plenty of lube, strong cord, have a helper, and go for it.

Edited by DrDoctor
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