pflaming Posted August 8, 2013 Report Share Posted August 8, 2013 ". . . .make sure that the engine comes up to a temperature warm enough to raise the temp of the engine oil to a point where it will vaporize the condensation in the crankcase or you'll have sludge build-up problems. . . " I learned something important this morning. Under normal driving conditions, how soon does the engine oil come to that temperature? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
First2Fargo Posted September 4, 2013 Author Report Share Posted September 4, 2013 you guys rock. Im installing another head gasket and definitely re tourqing after the first heat cycle. SHE WILL RUN Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
First2Fargo Posted September 4, 2013 Author Report Share Posted September 4, 2013 sorry for the late responses guys. I went away to work for the summer at a fishing lodge WAY the hell out of civilization. im back now with renewed vigour(and money) I dont know the condition of the rings and pistons as i havent pulled them out. Truth be told i probably won't. I suspect im going to look for another 251/265 and build it up while still driving this one. when it runs it drives great. If retorqing consistently doesnt solve my problem, i suspect i will have to remove the engine anyway to get at the problem. if im going to take the engine out, im going to do a bunch more refitting at the same time. time for new brakes, shocks and possible and overdrive or new gears in the dif. I want to keep the colum shift as i like the uniqueness of it. just like to bring the RPM down on the highway. ANy suggestions there? And yes i will searching the threads a lot. Thanks again Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
48Dodger Posted September 4, 2013 Report Share Posted September 4, 2013 Ways to bring the RPMs down: • Taller rear tires ( Jim Shepard ) • Third member drop out changed to a mid 50's era @ 3.54ish (help with years please) • Transmission changed to a T-5 ( Don Coatney, John-T-53) • Adding an Overdrive....I believe Doug ( DJ194950 ) did this to his car • Getting a taller gear via axle swap ( 8 3/4, Jeep Cheeokee, etc..serveral members have done the Jeep swap, Dan Babb, Paul Falming, Boss Hog.... ) Note: As the RPMs go down, and the speed stays up...you lose engine braking and need to consider better braking power. ( front disc brakes by Olddaddy) 48D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wildanimal Posted February 21, 2017 Report Share Posted February 21, 2017 On 8/7/2013 at 5:37 AM, Pipewrench_Dale said: I also use a gasket adhesive on the bolts. Not the type that hardens but a adhesive that stays slighty sticky. Dont know whats is called in english but its almost like tar in substance. Are you referring to Indian Head Gasket Shellac? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dpollo Posted February 24, 2017 Report Share Posted February 24, 2017 I always retorque the head as soon as the engine is thoroughly warmed up then again after 500 miles. Over the years I have had some gasket failures but never on an engine with a resurfaced head . I always use a gasket sealer even though it was not recommended by the manuals of the day. The noise you hear is compression being blown out around a bolt and is an early warning of gasket failure. Your problems are definitely not normal for this engine and it might pay to start with another cylinder head. If you send me a PM I will put you in touch with my friend Cam who is a Fargo enthusiast in Vernon BC who previously lived in Kaslo. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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