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New Here. Daily Driver?


Dajudge

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Hi, first post. Been reading and reading. I have found a group of 49's. One runs and the other two are mostly complete. I have a 13 year old daughter who is very interested in building here first car with dad. My first car was a 66 Pontiac Lemans convertible that my dad and I put together followed by a 70 GTO Judge that we tore a part and put it back together. That car is still in my garage 22 years later.

I drive a new GTO and my wife has a Dodge Daytona, we like cars and it has rubbed off on her.

She loves the humpy fenders of the 40's trucks. She has also watch too much monkey garage and doesn't want to paint it, just clear over the patina. How realistically drivable is a 49 stock? I have talked myself in and out of this multiple times over the last several days. I thought I would come to the experts.

Could you just do the rear end for more highway drivability? Top speed stock?

Gas mileage, simply because I have no clue what these get. 8 or 80 mpg

Should you do a front end for better handling? Volara, mustang II

Need to update brakes. With or without front end upgrade?

Can you get along with the stock 6?

No real need for a frame swap I've decided.

318 and 727 trans upgrade?

This truck would be used for going back and forth to school. Your first car should be cool. :)

Spending a couple of years in the garage with her would be great. Just looking for the right project.

Any input would be appreciated. Tell me it's great, tell me I'm crazy... Didn't sleep a wink last night thinking about it.

Thank you

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At minimum I would add disc brakes up front and seat belts in the cab. It won't have power steering so depending on her upper body strength steering while stopped will be difficult, but once it's rolling she would have no problems. This would make parking more difficult. Also, if its a 3 speed truck I wouldn't think much about it, but if it has a 4 speed she'll have to learn the art of the "double clutch".

A diff or complete rear axle upgrade for better highway gearing would be a good upgrade. But if you really want a good daily driver for her that will be easy to handle you may want to consider a Dakota front clip along with the Dakota drivetrain.

By the way, welcome to the family.

Merle

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Ah, your story is taking me back 7 years ago.  I bought my 13 year old son a 1952 Dodge Pickup, because it looked cool.  Now, I am an accountant, not a mechanic, but hey, this is just a straight 6 that needs some work and a rusty body that needs some banging on, right? 

 

The cost is incredible for fixing these, but since you have done it before, you should know that.  Parts are a nightmare to find.  This board is invaluable for helping with that.  Everything needed to be replaced or rebuilt, and since it is old, it costs more.  Things that you don't think should be hard to do (replace the master cylinder for example) become tasks that take a week instead of a day.  Just finding brake shoes is a chore.  Every bolt and nut was rusted and when we put a wrench to it, most of them broke.  The re-wiring took three trys to get right.

 

My son turns 20 this summer.  You can see pictures of him with his BBQ awards on the other thread.  The truck just got to drivable a month ago.  It broke down this week (see my other thread).  The youngest son is pretty strong, but struggles with the steering.  The breaks and the gearing make driving a little difficult for him. 

 

If I had it to do over again, I would put on the disc brakes and replace the tranny with something that was easier to shift.  I would also take it to a body shop and have them do all the work on that rust bucket.  And if I had the funds, I would have Tim put a clip on the front of it for me (he is good at that, btw). 

 

I still have a long way to go.  But I do like the looks I get driving the truck.  It definately is cool.

 

Tom

Hollister, CA

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Merle is spot on.  If she can handle shifting the old trans I would say just a more highway friendly gear ratio will do the trick.  I'd look for a 2.90 to 3.30 or so ratio axle.  Disc brakes and belts are a must, I would recommend the 12 volt alternator upgrade and ignition upgrade to the original flat six.  The wiring of a car that old should be replaced any way, you don't want the thing to burn down due to poor wire condition.

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I agree with Merle on several of his suggestions. I have a 57 3/4 ton with the flathead six and 3 speed on the column. All stock except for a new radio and heater. The steering is difficult while not moving and a little lively at highway (50) speeds, but I don't get on the interstate too often. Brakes are tough, she will need to stand on them to stop short.. I want to keep mine as much original As I can, but if my daughter was driving it, she is 5' 3" and 110 pounds, l would do the brakes and steering. The engine is great, very good starting and runs perfect. Get her a good radio and seat belts with the shoulder belt. I think the clear coat over the patina is cool. Have fun with your project, your daughter will never forget it....Dave

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Thanks for the replies.

 

Thought I would post a picture of the running truck.  Then there are 2 green ones for parts.

 

I'm thinking I might give them a call and ride up to look at them Sunday.  They are about 160 miles away.

post-5997-0-20765600-1366235348_thumb.jpg

Edited by Dajudge
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The only option I haven't seen is taking the old body and putting it on like a dodge dakota frame. You will have all updated gear that will go hyway speed and good brakes that will stop it.  But I think that will be more work. it'sall your chose. lug

About the only one that wasn't listed.  There's several threads on the forum about Dakota frame swaps, V8 swaps, a C5 corvette swap, Crown Vic clip, s10 frame swap.  How dependable these trucks are depends on there initial condition and how thorough you are going through the components.  

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Go through the safety related items like steering, brakes and wiring. By go through, I mean repair or replace to new condition. Put in seat belts.

then drive it and have fun. All the other stuff will take a lot of time and money. Stock 4.1 gearing will do 65-70 all day long.  I would definitely not go to a 2.9 or 3.5 on the rear end.  Hard on the clutch and performance gets even worse. Embrace it for what it is!   :)

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 Well I have to disagree with a couple of points mentioned . My truck , a 1941 plymouth has 2.94 gears in the rear and I love it . No riding the clutch or poor performance issues . My rear tires are about 28 inches in diameter .  My engine is a 218 . Also dave if you truck acts up going down the highway at speed , something is wrong with your suspension or tires or alignment , I drive 70 MPH on the freeway and all is normal , like steering a normal vehicle . 

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Jerry, you are right, the truck came with two bias ply tires on the rear and radials on the front. I think that is the problem. I don't get on the highway often but I will change over to all radials soon and see.

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Go through the safety related items like steering, brakes and wiring. By go through, I mean repair or replace to new condition. Put in seat belts.

then drive it and have fun. All the other stuff will take a lot of time and money. Stock 4.1 gearing will do 65-70 all day long.  I would definitely not go to a 2.9 or 3.5 on the rear end.  Hard on the clutch and performance gets even worse. Embrace it for what it is!   :)

 

Just caravanned (sp?) with some other vintage Plymouths. The '35 had a T5 transmission and the '46 had an overdrive transmission. Near as I can tell they did not have any great advantage over my '33 with its 4.375 rear end. We kept is reasonably slow, between 55 and 60 most of the 900 miles except for the hills where my car actually did better than theirs.

 

I think the factory engineers were pretty good at putting together a balanced package: About the time the engine runs out of steam you are starting to wonder about the brakes and the suspension is letting you know that you are running fast. If you change one part of that balanced package without addressing the rest you could have issues.

 

So if you insist on a modern car with vintage styling, drop the body on a modern frame. But if you just put everything back to spec you will have a pretty darned good piece of transportation.

 

Friday I'm heading the 900 miles back home in my '33 (been 1200 miles so far on this trip). This leg will be solo so no "safety in numbers". I am planning on running 60 MPH with breaks for food, fuel and stretching the legs. 500 miles on day one, 400 miles on day two. If I had a 4.1 rear I'd probably bump that up to 65 MPH.

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+1

I think the factory engineers were pretty good at putting together a balanced package: About the time the engine runs out of steam you are starting to wonder about the brakes and the suspension is letting you know that you are running fast. If you change one part of that balanced package without addressing the rest you could have issues.

 

So if you insist on a modern car with vintage styling, drop the body on a modern frame. But if you just put everything back to spec you will have a pretty darned good piece of transportation.

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Thanks guys this is what I wanted to hear. Leaving it stock and just bringing it back to life makes me feel much better. I know what I am doing there. The frame swapping or front clipping had me concerned. She doesnt need to do 80 but 55 to 60 would be nice as not to get run over. Much thinking to be done.

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One thing I have noticed is people talking about applying clear over patina, which is fine of course. However for a more traditional look with several benefits try Penatrol, very easy to apply just rub it on with a cloth.  The more shine you want just add another coat.  It takes about 45 mins to do the entire cab. It does dull with age but you can give it a coat every 6 months if you want.

 

There is no masking needed and will prevent any further rusting/patina.  I have just re read this and it sounds like I sell the stuff, which I don't but at $20 which will easily do the whole truck  - it is a bargain!

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Does Penatrol stick to shiny metal as well? And where does one get it? I have too many bare metal spots for clear, I don't think the clear will stick to shiny metal, at least not for long, maybe I'm wrong. 

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Thanks guys this is what I wanted to hear. Leaving it stock and just bringing it back to life makes me feel much better. I know what I am doing there. The frame swapping or front clipping had me concerned. She doesnt need to do 80 but 55 to 60 would be nice as not to get run over. Much thinking to be done.

love you are keeping it stock, but I'd redo the body work, but a masochist that way!

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Here's my 52 shortly after I got it in '97. It had no engine or trans so I installed a 50 Chrysler 251 with a 4 speed synchro.

A year or so later I installed a 3.0 rear end from a '66 T-bird,painted it,and had a ladder rack made so I could carry materials to the job site.  I used it daily this way for about 10 years.

Now that Old Yeller and I have retired she looks like this. 

 

I can't seem to add a second photo under the first photo so they are out of order. Scroll to the bottom for the first photo and scroll back up as time progressed.  Can't find spell check either.  Not loving the new forum.

sidemountspare2.jpg

Oleyeller.jpgMVC-017F-1.jpg

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Yep, Penatrol will stick fine.  When you first rub it on its a kind of oily substance then dries to a hard lustre. I'm not sure where you buy it in the US but in Australia you can buy it in most hardware stores.  

Does Penatrol stick to shiny metal as well? And where does one get it? I have too many bare metal spots for clear, I don't think the clear will stick to shiny metal, at least not for long, maybe I'm wrong. 

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Early 49 had a very user friendly floor shift 3 speed, later in the year has a column shift. I'm one of the "oddballs" that truly despsises column shift manual transmissions... so if the driver is a 3 on the tree and a parts truck is top loader, I'd be swapping transmissions and steering columns. Modern rear end, the stock brakes are lousy, better than a 60s dodge truck, but lousy. Disc conversion on the front, the factory brakes are a joke.

 

My 49 with a 3 speed, 4.78:1 rear gears and 218 toppped out at 55 on the rare occasions I could get it to run (sat for 20 years and had a half assed ressurection in 94). Is getting a rear axle from a 4 banger Ranger, keeping the 3 speed, will have modern parking brakes off the trans mounted handle instead of the works only if everything is perfect factory version on the output shaft yoke. Disc brake conversion up front. 12v conversion. No seat belts as I don't like them and think they junk up vintage interiors. They've been deleted from my 69 truck as well.

 

Fuel economy? 12 and up. Had a friend in eastern Washington who's 50 consistently gets mid 20s mpg with a 4 speed and 3.55 rear gears.

Edited by Scruffy49
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Hi and welcome to the group;

I am building a daily driver out of a 52 B-3-C. There are a lot of things that need to be considered when doing something like this.

Safety and reliability should be at the top of your list. I am trying to reuse most of the original truck but have gone with 4 wheel disc brakes. I feel that upgrading the brakes is a must for a daily driver in my part of the world. I am also adding 3 point seat belts. Other than that my truck will be fairly original.

The condition of your truck along with the driving conditions it will most likely see should be a deciding factor for how you progress. Every build is different and opinions will vary as to how far you take things. As the father of the future user I feel certain you will keep safety at the forefront.

Have fun with it.

Jeff

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