My Salvation And Strengthening Of The Original Fuel Tank Straps

[thrashingcows]

This is getting hard to follow. Third thread on the gas tank install issues. Would be nice to see all three threads combined. It would make it easier for someone who wants to do the same project as there is some really good information in all three threads. Perhaps a moderator could combine all 3 threads.

 

 

 

I think Don has a very good idea....make a 3 for 1 deal.

[47heaven]

I think Don has a very good idea....make a 3 for 1 deal.

 

I think Don has a very good idea....make a 3 for 1 deal.

The reason I start different threads is because sometimes I have different questions, that even though they might be related, they tend to go unanswered because maybe they are not scene. I find that when I do start a different topic it gets scene and I get a faster response. For example, no one answered the question about the gas caps because they are now mixed in with the thread about the gas tank straps.

[47heaven]

Anyway...problem solved. With a pencil sketch over the tank hole and gas line flange onto paper, I was able to take them to my buddies at Car Quest and we figured out the dimensions. Thread on the tank is 3/8 and the thread on the gas line is 5/16. So, as you can see, I have the same set up as shown above.

Now, on to the fuel sending unit and calibration. Maybe with this new tank I shouldn't have anymore problems with that...let's hope.

 

 

 

[Don Coatney]

My guess is the bushing you bought is 3/8" X 1/4" IPS (iron pipe size) as 5/16"  is not a common size for tapered iron pipe. Also teflon tape is not required on the flaired fuel line fitting nut but it is required on the tapered pipe threads. I say this not to be critical of your work but only pass this information on to you should you ever work with plumbing fittings again.

 

On your gas cap venting try this. Install one of the caps and run your engine for 5 or so minutes. Then remove the cap and listen for a rush of air. If no rush is heard then the cap should be vented. If you do hear a rush of air then try the same test with the other cap.

 

Is the "fuel sending unit" the gas gauge sending unit?

[47heaven]

My guess is the bushing you bought is 3/8" X 1/4" IPS (iron pipe size) as 5/16"  is not a common size for tapered iron pipe. Also teflon tape is not required on the flaired fuel line fitting nut but it is required on the tapered pipe threads. I say this not to be critical of your work but only pass this information on to you should you ever work with plumbing fittings again.

 

On your gas cap venting try this. Install one of the caps and run your engine for 5 or so minutes. Then remove the cap and listen for a rush of air. If no rush is heard then the cap should be vented. If you do hear a rush of air then try the same test with the other cap.

 

Is the "fuel sending unit" the gas gauge sending unit?

Yes, Don...you are right ... it's the fuel gauge sending unit. Sorry...had a small brain fart there. Sometimes I try to post fast and leave things out.

 

I will try what you say about the gas caps. Thanks for the advice.

 

[DJLarson]

It's nice to see some one "make" things the way they want themselves as anyone can go buy one or pay to have it done.  I like what you have done and I will probably have to do the same as I also have bought a new tank from Tanks Inc but didn't know they were a bit different in size.  The only thing of concern I see is the heads of the bolts apear to be up against the tank and might rub through after time on the road, thinking I might use revits.

 

Thanks

Dan

[_shel_ny]

Both caps appear to be vented. 5 seconds to check both. Easiest test is to try to draw air in with your mouth. Some plastic wrap with a hole in the center will keep residual gas off your mouth if that is a concern.

[47heaven]

It's nice to see some one "make" things the way they want themselves as anyone can go buy one or pay to have it done.  I like what you have done and I will probably have to do the same as I also have bought a new tank from Tanks Inc but didn't know they were a bit different in size.  The only thing of concern I see is the heads of the bolts apear to be up against the tank and might rub through after time on the road, thinking I might use revits.

 

Thanks

Dan

DJ...the bolts barely touch the tank, but I have since put rubber in between the bolt head and the tank. That tank is in there nice and tight, and I don't expect it to move around. What I like about using the original straps is the way they insert and hook into behind the gas tank. Don't use this procedure if you think your straps might be a little on the rusty side. Better to use the ones that come with it and fabricate those.

[WatchingWolf]

Actually, being current production brass, the threads are most likely NPTF (national pipe thread fine  OR  national pipe thread fuel, depending on who you ask) and would be of a dryseal configuration with the pitch and valley of the thread modified to create a mechanical seal with no thread sealant required. You would be hard pressed to ever find #6 and under brass in IPS tread. The bushing would be the equal to a Weatherhead 3220x6x4 and the SAE J512 inverted flair adapter would be equal to a Weatherhead 202x5x4.

 

Here's an awesome resource for brass works, any decent parts store can cross to Eaton part numbers and most stock parts under them. http://www.eaton.com/ecm/groups/public/@pub/@eaton/@hyd/documents/content/pll_1015.pdf