3dodgedoobie Posted March 14, 2013 Report Share Posted March 14, 2013 Im going saturday to look at a 1948 4 door dodge car. Wanting to know what to look for as in problem spots etc. Its a mans project that he running out of time for. Has all parts in boxes type of thing. Says it runs with some gas and wiring. Talk to him for almost an hour today. Been sitting in shed in the dry, front fenders and hood is currently off and hanging on wall. Body had been sanded down and primered. What are the hard to find parts that I should look for? In picture he sent it was missing the trim at rockers. And I know its hard to put price on something sight unseen. So not going to ask that. But more than welcome to throw some figures out. Also being 48 would that be 6v? Or 12v? Reason I ask he said something about pos. Grnd. Only heard of that on 6v systems. And any advice will gladly be appreciated. On side note me 52 truck is coming together nicely. The car be next project mainly for wife. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Uncle-Pekka Posted March 14, 2013 Report Share Posted March 14, 2013 Having owned a 1948 D24 for six years now, I have not come across any parts I haven't been able to find. However, those stainless steel rocker trims are getting rare to find in good condition and prices are high. Further, I would appreciate if the interior wood grained panels and dash would be presentable factory paint. I do value original factory wood grain job over restored. Also professional restoring of wood graining is expensive. The 1948 is 6V positive ground system. No problem finding 6V components either. Good luck! Pekka Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BobT-47P15 Posted March 14, 2013 Report Share Posted March 14, 2013 What Pekka said. Parts can usually be found on eBay and sometimes in the classified ads of this site. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
3dodgedoobie Posted March 14, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 14, 2013 Ok thanks guys. Also any spots I should check for known rust issues etc etc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plymouthy Adams Posted March 14, 2013 Report Share Posted March 14, 2013 anywhere there is steel.....!!!!!!!!! seriously a few of the more common are rockers both in and out..usually more pronounced at the front where cowl firewall and floor come toghether...the area below the read quarter glass as this drains out the rocker and over time the drains are futzed..left and right panels of the trunk opening at the bottom where the gravel shield resides..then the lower opening of the trunk lid where the rubber seal resides has rust issues along with the very pocket for the trunk latch....front fenders at the cowl as they can accumulate dust and dirt over time and moisture gets in there every rain..and about the grille panel and turn signal lights at the front..most of the upper body survivves relaly well including gutters and pinchwelds at the glass...lower doors could be rough..and often the door corners on the outer skin..the trunk lid itself may have some lower rot usually on the insde stiffener moreso than the outer skin.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DJ194950 Posted March 14, 2013 Report Share Posted March 14, 2013 anywhere there is steel.....!!!!!!!!! seriously a few of the more common are rockers both in and out..usually more pronounced at the front where cowl firewall and floor come toghether...the area below the read quarter glass as this drains out the rocker and over time the drains are futzed..left and right panels of the trunk opening at the bottom where the gravel shield resides..then the lower opening of the trunk lid where the rubber seal resides has rust issues along with the very pocket for the trunk latch....front fenders at the cowl as they can accumulate dust and dirt over time and moisture gets in there every rain..and about the grille panel and turn signal lights at the front..most of the upper body survivves relaly well including gutters and pinchwelds at the glass...lower doors could be rough..and often the door corners on the outer skin..the trunk lid itself may have some lower rot usually on the insde stiffener moreso than the outer skin.. I agree with Tim and add- take something to lay on and a bright flashlight. Look at the area mentions from under the car. Many poorly done patches show up quickly. Most people that do poor repairs on sheet metal never bother with the undersides! Did I or anyone else tell you to lift up the floormats/carpets to see under them. Hope the find is good but don't be surprised to find some areas that need work! Just tell the owner what you have found and adjust price accordingly! Best to ya, Doug Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
_shel_ny Posted March 14, 2013 Report Share Posted March 14, 2013 Often the cowl vent will leak. Water will drip down in the area of the radio, and rot out the floor by the gas pedal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
3dodgedoobie Posted March 15, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 15, 2013 Ok he told me about the front flr board on drivers side had some rust. Which I figured, he also said bottom of front fenders which he said he fixed, said trunk pan was good, rear flr pans was good, he has fenders off so I can check cowl area. And he said he is 3rd owner. He restores cars on the side in his retirement yrs. And just dont wanna mess with 4door car, he has 2 other 2dr sedans he working on. And rather finish than a 4dr. Luckily not dodges or im sure he swapped out good parts for bad. And its priced so low that I can afford to fix troubled areas. So we will see, and go from there. If come home with it I upload some pics. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plymouthy Adams Posted March 15, 2013 Report Share Posted March 15, 2013 be very careful of areas that the PO fixed..could be just bondo stuffed in rusted out holes..invetigate this..repair proper..do not invest into a good paint job over unknow quality of work.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robert Horne Posted March 15, 2013 Report Share Posted March 15, 2013 On my 48 four door, the foor board near the master cylinder was bad, but as easy fix, all flat metal. The front driver fender, rear bottom section had a quarter size rust spot, easy fix also. I took out the seats for inspection, every thing was great. Trunk was great also.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
3dodgedoobie Posted March 16, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 16, 2013 Robert is the rear fenders suppose to look like that? Or did some of them not have the fillers over the wheels. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Uncle-Pekka Posted March 16, 2013 Report Share Posted March 16, 2013 Robert's rear fenders are fitted with optional fender skirts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robert Horne Posted March 16, 2013 Report Share Posted March 16, 2013 My 48 had the fender skirts. Really made the car very nice, and the rear was a little lower than normal,(weak springs).... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
3dodgedoobie Posted March 17, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 17, 2013 ok fellas i went today looked at 48 4door dodge. came home with it. couldnt pass up the deal at 500 bucks. almost all there and runs. flathead 6. diamond in the rough.i will upload pics in day or two. where can i find info on the car like vin number lookup, firewall number, id plate number on cowl, and motor numbers too see what i have. and where to purchase parts from. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
_shel_ny Posted March 17, 2013 Report Share Posted March 17, 2013 door post serial number: scroll up hover over reference click on D24 reference Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
3dodgedoobie Posted March 18, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 18, 2013 Well I did the reference thing right off. But I guess what im saying is where can I find what engine it should have, what color was the car originally, what color interior, is it custom or deluxe tupe of question? On side note I did bring it home its in pieces parts missing mainly chrome, and interior shot, but she runs. I would like to know if my flathead is 218 or 230? Wife wants it back to original state. Or close as possible. So any info on where to get wiring diagrams, buy parts etc would help out greatly Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plymouthy Adams Posted March 18, 2013 Report Share Posted March 18, 2013 (edited) 48 Dodge...230 is stock Edited March 18, 2013 by Plymouthy Adams Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
3dodgedoobie Posted March 18, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 18, 2013 Thats good. I wrote down every number on the car I could find. Just need to find out where to get all the info. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grassfiddler Posted March 18, 2013 Report Share Posted March 18, 2013 You can get a reproduction repair manuel off of ebay for around $30 plus shipping. I bought one for my 52 Coronet and it has been a life saver! I have used the wiring diagrams to get me out of a jamb on many occasions. There are a ton of diagrams to help you put the car back together for things such as the body, engine, transmission, exhaust, brakes, wiring, etc.... A parts book would also be a great investment just for it's diagrams as well. As far as running the numbers to find out original color, motor, tranny, etc. you can apply to the Chrysler Museum with your VIN number and they can do a search for the original build sheet. Costs around $60 and it can help you in rebuilding your car back to it's original state. Just like some others have said, most parts are fairly easy to get, but some are getting a little more rare such as fuel pumps and some trim pieces. Do your homework and shop around. I have seen some vendors charge double than what another vendor would charge for the same part. Shop your local auto parts store(s) then check places like ebay, rock auto, etc... and salvage yards like Desert Valley. Be patient when looking for these parts and also be patient with the people selling the parts because many of them have never delt with any cars of this age and will not know much about them. Best wishes with the build! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
3dodgedoobie Posted March 19, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 19, 2013 yea i know people not good with cars older than them most the time. im a patient person. most the time when i go to parts store i have the number already that i need. i research numbers and pics to make sure i have what needed. i wonder if one of those cd rom repair manuels would be ok to have and i know they going to be parts i cant find or way over priced. but we will get there. robert horne the master cyclinder in your pic is that factory or slightly modified to help with braking? also robert i think your local to me. jc here. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
3dodgedoobie Posted March 19, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 19, 2013 Ok got a question. Where can I find ignition switch and locks for doors and trunk? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
_shel_ny Posted March 19, 2013 Report Share Posted March 19, 2013 (edited) roberts motor parts EDIT: adding roberts site. Links are not as user friendly as on the old forum. http://www.robertsmotorparts.com/car_parts.asp or oldmoparts.com from the links will probably have them. ebay seller light1nin I have no affiliation with these sellers Edited March 19, 2013 by shel_bizzy_48 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
3dodgedoobie Posted March 19, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 19, 2013 I couldnt find the locks on roberts. But did find em on oldmoparts. So I be. Ordering as soon as I See what all needed with locks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Uncle-Pekka Posted March 19, 2013 Report Share Posted March 19, 2013 According to my experience, you'll be more likely getting the CORRECT parts by ordering to Oldmoparts (ex. Bernbaum) than by Roberts. Roberts web catalog has errors, which in my case lead to wrong windshield weatherstripping. In spite that the mistake was in their supplied information, they refused to compensate the freight of the replacement parts, thus I ended paying the parts and freight twice (200%). a Non-returning customer, I am. With Oldmoparts never had any mistakes or quality issues - do recommend. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robert Horne Posted March 19, 2013 Report Share Posted March 19, 2013 (edited) ""robert horne the master cyclinder in your pic is that factory or slightly modified to help with braking? also robert i think your local to me. jc here."" My master cylinder setup is, a rebuilt Mustang II from auto parts store, about $20. I left the original master cylinder in place, add a 9 inch rod to go through the original. There are several threads on here where others have done something similar. I hear J.C. Tenn, has cruise-ins near Auto Zone auto parts, have not been there yet. Here in Abn,Va, cruise-ins are on Saturday evenings, I-81, exit 17, Majic Mart parking lot, everyone welcome.... Edited March 19, 2013 by Robert Horne Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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