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1941-48 Plymouth/Dodge fuel tank from Tanks Inc.


47heaven

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Alright, as some of you may recall my gas tank was having issues about six months ago with the protetive coating coming apart inside the tank. Anyway, due to a long, hot summer and other expenses that had to come first, I finally went ahead and ordered the aftermarket fuel tank from Tank Inc. a couple weeks ago through Ebay and it finally arrived today. Took it out of the box and inspected it to make sure everything was there, which it looks like it is. I'm planning to have a buddy come over and install it this weekend. The only problem I see is that there is a small hole at the top of the tank that seems to be where a brass elbow fitting goes for some kind of gas pressure release? Since the original tank didn't have this, and it mounted flush to the botton side of the trunk, I see this somehow getting in the way of a flush mount. Also, the mounting straps seemed to formed on one side and not the other. Do the straps need to be bent to fit on the unformed side? I don't know...just taking a guess here.

Anyway, who else has picked one of these up and has, or is presently mounting one up in their car now? Since there were no installation instructions that came with it, it kind of seems like a trail and error type of situation, but I'm not really up for making errors since it's important that the installation is done right. Any advice on tips on installation? Thanks!

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Edited by 47heaven
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Am thinking about buying one of those tanks.

Have also considered a Ford tank from O'Reilly, but would have

to relocate the filler neck. It holds the same number of gallons

as the P15 tank and looks more like the original than the smooth

and more square Tanks Inc item.

Will be interested to see your installation.

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Was installing the tank today and, of course, I ran into a hurdle that I couldn't clear. The tail pipe that I had added five years ago when I went split exahust now sits in the way of the clearance on the drivers side, thus not allowing the hole on the fuel tank to line up with the whole on the bottom of the trunk for the sending unit. It's not the tank's fault because it's designed to fit the car, which it would had the secondary tailpipe not been there. So now, I have to figure out a way to redirect the secondary tailpipe to come out the same side that the correct one was does. Can the tailpipe be cut after the muffler and directed into the pipe on the correct side or would that call for a larger diameter tailpipe at the end? I would really like to keep the tailpipe the same size coming out the end, even though I'm going to lose my twin pipe look.

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Was installing the tank today and, of course, I ran into a hurdle that I couldn't clear. The tail pipe that I had added five years ago when I went split exahust now sits in the way of the clearance on the drivers side, thus not allowing the hole on the fuel tank to line up with the whole on the bottom of the trunk for the sending unit. It's not the tank's fault because it's designed to fit the car, which it would had the secondary tailpipe not been there. So now, I have to figure out a way to redirect the secondary tailpipe to come out the same side that the correct one was does. Can the tailpipe be cut after the muffler and directed into the pipe on the correct side or would that call for a larger diameter tailpipe at the end? I would really like to keep the tailpipe the same size coming out the end, even though I'm going to lose my twin pipe look.

Darin, can you post some pics, surely this can be overcome, and allow you dual pipes out back, even if they are side by side on the right side.

Would you be will to install the tank with sender installed before hand, even though the access hole is out to the right. You could at least not have to mess with the tail pipe.

How much clearance and tank sideways movement are we talking abut here?

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Or cut out and move the hole in the floor to fit the tank.........

I would be inclined to do this, as the new tank is not stock anyways. Or the sender can be pre-installed, and used without an access, at least for the time being, this tank could be moved again, when the exhaust pipes are moved...

I know that I could cut a new access hole, weld in the old hole, and lay acover of quality water proof filler, you would not be able to tell, then use access cover over new hole...

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Fred, the new tank is 4" longer than the original tank was. I just got off the phone with the place that had done the muffler work originally, and they told me that they would be able to redirect the tailpipe in question back into the other pipe so that it will just be one pipe out the back end now instead of two. I'll lose my twin pipe look, and will be back to the stock look, but that is something I can live with. As soon as I get the pipe work done, I'll get that tank up and in there.

One question I have though. Do the original straps hold the new tank fine by themselves? The reason I ask is because I can't figure out how the new straps work, nor was there any fastening hardware sent with them.

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Darin, can you post some pics, surely this can be overcome, and allow you dual pipes out back, even if they are side by side on the right side.

Would you be will to install the tank with sender installed before hand, even though the access hole is out to the right. You could at least not have to mess with the tail pipe.

How much clearance and tank sideways movement are we talking abut here?

Fred, I took pics, but they came out to dark to see.

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Fred, the new tank is 4" longer than the original tank was. I just got off the phone with the place that had done the muffler work originally, and they told me that they would be able to redirect the tailpipe in question back into the other pipe so that it will just be one pipe out the back end now instead of two. I'll lose my twin pipe look, and will be back to the stock look, but that is something I can live with. As soon as I get the pipe work done, I'll get that tank up and in there.

One question I have though. Do the original straps hold the new tank fine by themselves? The reason I ask is because I can't figure out how the new straps work, nor was there any fastening hardware sent with them.

Yes they work, I used brand new hardware, as my ol oem hardware was toast. Can you not use the old staps and hardware? or a combination of both, you may need to get creative. This is 1 part of the equation where better mounting straps and hardware would be nice..

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Yes they work, I used brand new hardware, as my ol oem hardware was toast. Can you not use the old staps and hardware? or a combination of both, you may need to get creative. This is 1 part of the equation where better mounting straps and hardware would be nice..

My old straps are still good, just a little thinner than the newer ones. It's just the new ones seem like they need some fabrication to hook into the slots in the back.

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Okay, this is what I did as my old straps were crap, this may or may not be to your liking for what you want to do. I say use the old straps if they can be used, clean em up and paint em.

Okay it's -20, but I figured I would go out to my garage and take these pics for you, lying on my frozen floor, I took these pics.

If I did not live on gravel, it would still be mint under there except for the dust. In spring gotta pressure wash and repaint under there a bit.

PS it's really only -20c or 4 below, and was 45f in the shop, floor is darn cold though

PSS this gas tank is super secure and solid, tried to move it, no darn way, I made it solid

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Okay, this is what I did as my old straps were crap, this may or may not be to your liking for what you want to do. I say use the old straps if they can be used, clean em up and paint em.

Okay it's -20, but I figured I would go out to my garage and take these pics for you, lying on my frozen floor, I took these pics.

If I did not live on gravel, it would still be mint under there except for the dust. In spring gotta pressure wash and repaint under there a bit.

PS it's really only -20c or 4 below, and was 45f in the shop, floor is darn cold though

PSS this gas tank is super secure and solid, tried to move it, no darn way, I made it solid

Wow, Fred, you didn't have to go out and do all that in the cold, but I appreciate it. It looks like I would have to do drill a couple holes in the back to put in the new straps. I'll test the durability of the old ones and decide whether to stay with those or use the new ones..or both. Thanks for braving the cold and snapping those pics!

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I'm also about to install one of these tanks,  they told be the old one would be $400 to repair.  What did you guys do with the vent line and vent fitting.  I'm thinking I would mount the vent in the wheel well near the filler hose.  Also plan on blocking the tank down an inch to  allow for the elbow.  

Thanks.......... bill

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I'm also about to install one of these tanks,  they told be the old one would be $400 to repair.  What did you guys do with the vent line and vent fitting.  I'm thinking I would mount the vent in the wheel well near the filler hose.  Also plan on blocking the tank down an inch to  allow for the elbow.  

Thanks.......... bill

Yup, exactly what I did, it worked well.............

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I'm also about to install one of these tanks,  they told be the old one would be $400 to repair.  What did you guys do with the vent line and vent fitting.  I'm thinking I would mount the vent in the wheel well near the filler hose.  Also plan on blocking the tank down an inch to  allow for the elbow.  

Thanks.......... bill

Bill...I was told by some on here that I had the option to leave it off, if I use a vented gas cap. This way the tank can fit snug up against the underside of the trunk and be more stable. It makes installation a lot easier also, especially if you are using the old straps.

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Brian;

A plug and a vented cap sounds good,  I just got a new cap from Bernbaums.  The outside looks like my old one,  but I'm not so sure the inside has the same vent device.  What is a Stant cap?

thanks....... Bill

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  • 2 years later...

Just replaced the tank on the P15 with the universal unit from TanksRUs, including the universal sending unit.

Used the original Plymouth straps.  

Didn't necessarily like the idea of not using original Plymouth, but the tank had too many holes to be considered trustworthy if repaired.

 

Easy conversion and minimal labor.

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