Resqmatt Posted January 7, 2013 Report Share Posted January 7, 2013 I'm looking for any help! I recently bought a 48 special delux for a great deal, runs like a champ fires right up etc. guy said there was 'minor' electrical problems when they removed something. Well minor to some is major to others!!! It has been converted to 12 V sorta. New coil and alternator, but no lighting or gauges work. I assume the didn't convert the positive ground to negative with the lights but I'm not sure. I've never experienced a positive ground vehicle before. All the wire is deteriorating and needs replacement. I am looking into a wiring harness, but do I go back to the 6V or complete the 12 V conversion correctly? Any help would be great! Matt. (still wet behind the ears) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
james curl Posted January 7, 2013 Report Share Posted January 7, 2013 I converted mine to 12 volts some years ago and it was fairly simple. I replaced all of the light bulbs with 12 volt equivalent bulbs. I made mine negative ground as the starter doesn't know the difference and run my 6 volt starter on 12 volts. I also used an aftermarket fuel gauge and a voltage dropper to the heater motor. You will not be able to use negative ground 12 volt with a voltage dropper for your original radio and fuel gauge. I have not had any problems with mine in the six years since I converted it to 12 volts negative ground. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plymouthy Adams Posted January 7, 2013 Report Share Posted January 7, 2013 the 12 conversion will be negative ground..nothing on that car is sensitive to grounds except maybe the radio and there are those that say that is not even a problem...how you wish to go, 6 or 12 is your call...12 you can run modern accessories use modern smaller gauge wiring and buy a relatively inexpensive afterket harness, 6 volt is heavier gauge wir, replacment harness are quite costly..again though, your call..on 12 your starter will spin faster but you will face some other issues on other circuits..do search this froum using the gray tab at top right...you will find a ton of reading there that will explain some of the issue of both setups..then you can decide your own course of action.. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrwrstory Posted January 7, 2013 Report Share Posted January 7, 2013 A new harness is a real pleasure to work with. They seem a bit pricey up front but you get all the ancillary components and fresh stock to work with. Using and modifying fragile antique wiring is a pain and frought with introducing electrical gremlins. The up side of using the stock stuff is, you'll always have something to do,....electrically speaking,..... and sometimes on the side of the road. It's also a test of friendships, seeing who stops and who drives by Carry a fire extinguisher too 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BeBop138 Posted January 7, 2013 Report Share Posted January 7, 2013 A new harness is a real pleasure to work with. They seem a bit pricey up front but you get all the ancillary components and fresh stock to work with. Using and modifying fragile antique wiring is a pain and frought with introducing electrical gremlins. The up side of using the stock stuff is, you'll always have something to do,....electrically speaking,..... and sometimes on the side of the road. It's also a test of friendships, seeing who stops and who drives by Carry a fire extinguisher too One can always use a little humor in the morning:D:D:D Good one Bill.........Lee Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kudzuking Posted January 7, 2013 Report Share Posted January 7, 2013 When I first installed the battery in the 47 coupe, I didn't realize it was pos ground, when I turrned on the ignition switch the horn started sucking, the headlights started casting shadows, and the radio listened. Not really, the radio was broken, i just thought it was listening. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plymouthy Adams Posted January 7, 2013 Report Share Posted January 7, 2013 and your back up light shined forward...right..!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kudzuking Posted January 7, 2013 Report Share Posted January 7, 2013 (edited) Well, guess the laughs on me, i read the posts and responded, then i got to thinking about the grill i was working on yesterday and some wires i saw but didn't check out, i had this bad feeling, so i just went out and looked and all the wires for the headlighs and turn signals in the front a cut!!!! The inner fenderwells were out of the car when i got it, wonder if they just cut the wires to get the front end off or what. Guess i gotta go do some vestigatin'. Oh, and Tim, your right, and i turned on the dome light and it got totally dark inside the car! :0) Edited January 7, 2013 by Kudzuking Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plymouthy Adams Posted January 7, 2013 Report Share Posted January 7, 2013 cut..they are not direct to the lamps unless a PO made it that way...the wiring went to termianl blocks on the rad support panel and the individual harness tied in there to go each headlight/turn-park..while shorter in length..they may be just disconnected and pulled back a bit..if not...it's splicing time... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pflaming Posted January 7, 2013 Report Share Posted January 7, 2013 The terminal block on my 53 is easy to get to. On the truck it was behind the radiator on the inside fender. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kudzuking Posted January 7, 2013 Report Share Posted January 7, 2013 (edited) Well, great excuse to pull those "custom" front turn signals, by the way, there'r for sale and I've included a pic of them if your interested, I'm thinking .$.02 OBO. Anyway, i have a pic of the cut wires to the pass side headlight, the two black ieres look original, the green and red wires were in the electrical tape that was wrapped around it. Aslo, the square bar that holds the bottom brace for the hood latch plate, does it attach to the fenders at the ends? I just realized I'm kinda hijackin' this thread, sorry about that, I'll try not to do that again, I know it's agrivating, especially for the original poster, RESQMATT my apologies. Edited January 7, 2013 by Kudzuking Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
55 Fargo Posted January 8, 2013 Report Share Posted January 8, 2013 AS others have said, if your gettin into it, rewire, change bulbs to 12volt, runtz voltage dropper for fuel gauge, voltage reducer for heater motor ( or upgrade to 12 volt blower motor), voltage dropper for clock, radio some say will work on negative, but you can get 6 volt negative grnd vibrator for it, then just use a voltage dropper in the circuit. You can buy a ready made wire harness, or make it up yourself, not that complicated. The real nice thing with 12 volt is this, engine starts are stronger, and quicker especially on hot days after a good run, you can add accessories,stereo etc, all modern stuff. Go with the 12 volt, if it is already started, 6 volt is fine, but 12 volt is fantastic, I have both, and think the 12 volt is much better, and both vehicles have new wiring and all electrical in great shape...welcome and good luck 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Resqmatt Posted January 9, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 9, 2013 Well, great excuse to pull those "custom" front turn signals, by the way, there'r for sale and I've included a pic of them if your interested, I'm thinking .$.02 OBO. Anyway, i have a pic of the cut wires to the pass side headlight, the two black ieres look original, the green and red wires were in the electrical tape that was wrapped around it. Aslo, the square bar that holds the bottom brace for the hood latch plate, does it attach to the fenders at the ends?I just realized I'm kinda hijackin' this thread, sorry about that, I'll try not to do that again, I know it's agrivating, especially for the original poster, RESQMATT my apologies. Not a problem! I'm learning a ton just reading what everyone has to say!!! This is a new adventure for me but one I feel I will enjoy! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Resqmatt Posted January 9, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 9, 2013 I was talking to a few locals here in NorCal who do more hot rods than classic rebuilds, they said to replace it with an 18 circuit painless universal harness. I don't know what everyone's thoughts are on that. I'd like to stay classic (within budget) but have hidden updates like a mp3 player (out of site) and things like that. (also wife said no hot rod) The only ones I know of are painless and ez wiring. Although I do see many talking about road island wiring. Any input would be handy! I know I say I'm new but i'm very handy with cars and electrical, just never played with Somthing this old before! I had no idea what an oil bath filter was until I looked at this car. My dad started laughing at me! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plymouthy Adams Posted January 9, 2013 Report Share Posted January 9, 2013 (edited) any of the harnesses will do the job..it depends on whether you wish to remain stock applearance or go with modern..another deciding factor is the volatge..if you going 12V the modern e-z and painless will do the trick but not recommended for 6V..for that you will need to go with RI and or another company dedicated to 6 volt harnesses..One of my projects came with a multi cirucit kit harness..really made quite nice and has instructions for connecting Mopar/Ford or GM components..you can get these between 112 to 190 bucks on the average..depending on number of circuits.. update...appears Rebel wiring advertises instruction included for Mopar cars..I do not know the car "years of application..." Edited January 9, 2013 by Tim Adams 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GregTaylor Posted January 14, 2013 Report Share Posted January 14, 2013 AS others have said, if your gettin into it, rewire, change bulbs to 12volt, runtz voltage dropper for fuel gauge, voltage reducer for heater motor ( or upgrade to 12 volt blower motor), voltage dropper for clock, radio some say will work on negative, but you can get 6 volt negative grnd vibrator for it, then just use a voltage dropper in the circuit.You can buy a ready made wire harness, or make it up yourself, not that complicated. The real nice thing with 12 volt is this, engine starts are stronger, and quicker especially on hot days after a good run, you can add accessories,stereo etc, all modern stuff. Go with the 12 volt, if it is already started, 6 volt is fine, but 12 volt is fantastic, I ha ve both, and think the 12 volt is much better, and both vehicles have new wiring and all electrical in great shape...welcome and good luck Just getting on the forum. I have a 52 pickup that the PO installed a 12v EZ wiring harness. I am trying to get the 6v wipers to work with a step down that was already installed. The step down glows red hot when the ignition is turned on. It has 12v going in and going out. I bought a new step down and looked at the wiring diagram and it shows the switch first then the step down(s). I want to retain the original switch to the wiper motor, so how can I accomplish this wiring feat? Thanks so much, Greg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plymouthy Adams Posted January 14, 2013 Report Share Posted January 14, 2013 single speed wiper..use a relay to provide the power..control the relay with the wiper switch.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Resqmatt Posted September 23, 2013 Author Report Share Posted September 23, 2013 Hey everyone! Long time, no update... I bought a 12V 12 circut painless harness. It has been a slow process because I'm very busy but its coming along great! lights are all working and no major hangups! Car is running great, just working on the smaller stuff now. I had a few questions I hope someone can answer. james curl wrote on here that I cannot use the origional gas gauge, but I have read in other threads that I can with a 12v to 6v drop. Can anyone here confirm or deny? I dont want to blow the gauge out, but I want to keep all origional gauges and such working. Also, kinda getting wide on this thread, but does anyone know what exact 3 wire alternator will fit? or be the closest? All i have read on other threads states a 70's GM, but that could be alot of different alternators. Any help would be great Thanks!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger the Dodger Posted September 23, 2013 Report Share Posted September 23, 2013 I used a runtz resistor on my fuel gauge. Been on the car 12 months and no problems. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Dash-Gauge-Voltage-Reducer-12-6-Volt-Runtz-Diode-to-resistor-c-/290968451444?pt=Vintage_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item43bf123974&vxp=mtr Roger. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andydodge Posted September 23, 2013 Report Share Posted September 23, 2013 O/k well whilst my 1940 Dodge is a hotrod, 318 V8 and all when I installed the V8 I rewired it completely but it uses the stock instruments.......the oil and water are mechanical so just bolt up to the V8, the amp gauge reads amps, they don't care whether they are 6 or 12volt amps and the fuel gauge has a resistor wired into its power wire and it reads fine.......obviously all the globes are 12volt also..........been like this for 40 yrs now............andyd Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
seabee Posted September 23, 2013 Report Share Posted September 23, 2013 Hey everyone! Long time, no update... I bought a 12V 12 circut painless harness. It has been a slow process because I'm very busy but its coming along great! lights are all working and no major hangups! Car is running great, just working on the smaller stuff now. I had a few questions I hope someone can answer. james curl wrote on here that I cannot use the origional gas gauge, but I have read in other threads that I can with a 12v to 6v drop. Can anyone here confirm or deny? I dont want to blow the gauge out, but I want to keep all origional gauges and such working. Also, kinda getting wide on this thread, but does anyone know what exact 3 wire alternator will fit? or be the closest? All i have read on other threads states a 70's GM, but that could be alot of different alternators. Any help would be great Thanks!!! Hey everyone! Long time, no update... I bought a 12V 12 circut painless harness. It has been a slow process because I'm very busy but its coming along great! lights are all working and no major hangups! Car is running great, just working on the smaller stuff now. I had a few questions I hope someone can answer. james curl wrote on here that I cannot use the origional gas gauge, but I have read in other threads that I can with a 12v to 6v drop. Can anyone here confirm or deny? I dont want to blow the gauge out, but I want to keep all origional gauges and such working. Also, kinda getting wide on this thread, but does anyone know what exact 3 wire alternator will fit? or be the closest? All i have read on other threads states a 70's GM, but that could be alot of different alternators. Any help would be great Thanks!!! delco 10si if i remember right. It's just a standard 3 wire gm alternator. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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