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Pertronix Ignition


woodjunky

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I have installed 3 conversions front points to pertorix. 0 problems!:D

1 is for a 4 cyl. boat motor(chevy II type motor), 1 in a 355 chev. v-8, and lastly in a flat 6 mopar truck motor (but mine was converted to 12v.).

The 6 v. type conversions are avail. for most of the mopar (usually a diff. mfg.) dist.s used in flat 6's.

Search- pertronix web site. Look at- mopar AND chrysler industrial motors WAY down further on pages for applications.

Applications are listed by Brand AND dist.#. Found my mopar flat 6 app. on this list . Read details. Part #s are mostly for 12v.. BUT By adding a letter after This # or letter (see details list) most are also avail. in 6 v.. 12v. AND 6v. hi. perf. coils are avail. from them in the exterior can types.

After getting #,s, do a web search with Petronix and the #. I saved AT least $25 doing this!

Problems findind it?

Post your dist. brand and # i'll also search it for you.

Happy hunting!!

Doug

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I've used Pertronix ignition on a 350 Chevy boat engine since 1999 with good preformance and no reliability issues.

This year I converted my 1955 C-3-B8 pick up to Pertronix. This is a V-8, but still 6 volt positive ground. I called Pertronix (they were very helpful) to ensure I ordered the correct items - they have several versions and use different coils depending on which version you select. Installation was easy and the truck starts much better now. I feel that for simplicity and reliability this is the way to go.

I was also happy to find that my new Westach tachometer works with the Pertronix unit.

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Fitted their ignitor unit in my distributor, replacing points, condensor etc earlier this year on my 218 flattie, that and a flamethrower coil from them and I never have any trouble starting/running! Have done our stovebolt since aswell.

Do it! Good kit for relatively little outlay.

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It has usually been the finding that if you mix and match Pertronix unit to coils not sold to match that the trouble begins..their unit is sensitive it seems to the resistance of the coil..this is what I have gathered from their web site and proved to be correct by those that had early failure of the unit per the number of forum entries from different forums..

only drawback in the use of the Pertronix is that you cannot walk into a big box store and grab a replacment..thus you could be dfown and out till the new unit arrives via the post/parcel deliverly

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I agree with tim's conclusions. If you drive your car far from home.

I've used two pertonix conversions both 12 v. though. So far 5000 miles on one of them.

I did not tempt fate and bought suggested pertonix coils at the same time, but sometimes from more than one seller.

By doing a web search with the correct pertonix part #'s i've saved up to $30 on both total. Shipping also always watched!

If i do plan to go further from home than the 100 mile tow home limit i plan to set up another complete point plate with points and stock coil.

My original point plate Required removal of the stud that the original points pivoted on which i did not know until i was installing the changeover. I called Pertronix and told them what i saw, and yes the said that i needed to remove the stud. Something to consider also. Plates are fairly often for sale on ebay, but i have collected several Flat 6 dist.'s so i'll probably just set a complete dist. to carry if i venture far from home.

Your choice,:cool:

Best to ya,

Doug

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What is gained with the Pertronix unit besides point elimination? Is there any gain in coil saturation time?

I convertrd my distributor to dual points. By doing so I was able to increase the dwell from 38 to 46 degrees thus gaining coil saturation time for a hotter spark. If I have one set of points fail while on the road I can revert back to a single point setup using the other set of points in short order.

dupnts.jpg

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the Pertronix unit like most Hall effect unit of later years switches the coil off and on without moving parts and better yet no eroding contacts. The dwell is not really measurable with the old style meter but saturation is great, timing is unchanging as there is nothing that wears...set once and forget it...I personally see no point in having points giving the options to upgrade that we have available to us..but that is always a choice of each owner..I have kept the 54 stock..so it is still on the old point system..guess if I were make a daily driver of the best it would have a myraid of modern gadget installed by now..

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Thank you all for your input much appreciated. As it will not be my daily driver, and most likely will not be driven long distances I will keep it stock.

Having also restored several Chris-Craft boats, I approach this like I did them. We are a keeper of time and should try to keep them as close as they came out of the factory. Again just my opinion.

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Woodjunky,

Well said. I pride myself in the skills I use to keep my 1948 stock.

It is always important to hand down those skills to youngsters also.

I have taught my son (17) how to set points and timing.

If everyone wants Petronix fine, I still opt for stock. Besides unless you have an extra spare at all times if it messes up that's a real chunk of change.

They are I believe @ $140 a kit so x 2 = $280 for some points and a coil?

Not good math for me, I'm too practical for that outlay.

I could buy a new battery, new shocks all around and still buy points, cap, rotor, condensor, and plugs, and go buy a Coke and Hamburger when I'm done for that much. Probably have some change left to buy gas with. L.O.L.:eek:

Tom

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