Jump to content

Rust free 40 plymouth sedan


40plyrod

Recommended Posts

I have been wondering how to lower the front of my 40 Plymouth Coupe.  Thanks for the posted information above.  It will be probably next summer before I can begin the lowering process.  I like the hood scoops on the purple 40 Ply in the attachments of fstfish66. 

 

By the way, where are these cars?  I've not seen a single 40 coupe in 4 years around North Carolina.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

 

 

By the way, where are these cars?  I've not seen a single 40 coupe in 4 years around North Carolina.

 

These are definitely not as common as the fords of the same period but around here there are a surprising number of 40-41 coupes and 4-door sedans but I have yet to see a 2-door sedan...I kinda like that  :D

 

The last little while I've been having to remind myself I'm not Chip Foose and it doesn't have to be perfect to be good enough. Here's the finished crankhole cover I'm happy with it and it turned out nice. I've never seen one in person so I'm not sure exactly how they're supposed to look and mine fits pretty good, as good as the original I don't know definitely not as good as Chip Foose would want.  So far during all this assembly things have gotten chipped, scratched, twisted, whatever and I'm amazed and in awe of how some people can build cars that turn out so flawless.  Mine will be nice when finished but not as good as it would turn out in the Utopian world of my mind.   

post-2834-0-41695900-1448848893_thumb.jpg

post-2834-0-97529200-1448848921_thumb.jpg

post-2834-0-14322900-1448848950_thumb.jpg

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Looks great  to me!

Nice work!

 

DJ

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Looks great! I always try to remember that no matter how hard i try to make it perfect i bet with in the first 10 minute drive a rock will pop up and chip my paint. Then i immediately go back to being okay with the imperfections. You're doing an awesome job.

 

-Chris

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Looks great! I always try to remember that no matter how hard i try to make it perfect i bet with in the first 10 minute drive a rock will pop up and chip my paint. Then i immediately go back to being okay with the imperfections. You're doing an awesome job.

 

-Chris

 

Reminds me of some advice I got from a guy once, "when you think your car is finished and before the first drive, park your butt against the grill and walk away ten paces, then bend over pick up a handful of pebbles and turn and throw it at the car." Apparently then you won't be afraid to drive it. :eek:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

When I was a lad we Had a neighbor who bought a new pickup every year, before he drove it home he always took a sledge hammer and put a dent in some inconspicuous place, his claim was that from that moment on it was a work truck. Each to his own I guess.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Looks great! I always try to remember that no matter how hard i try to make it perfect i bet with in the first 10 minute drive a rock will pop up and chip my paint. Then i immediately go back to being okay with the imperfections. You're doing an awesome job.

 

-Chris

And the way I work is,....I stress about an imperfection only until I create another.  That way I always have a new excuse for aggravation.  :angry: 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have been wondering how to lower the front of my 40 Plymouth Coupe.  Thanks for the posted information above.  It will be probably next summer before I can begin the lowering process.  I like the hood scoops on the purple 40 Ply in the attachments of fstfish66. 

 

By the way, where are these cars?  I've not seen a single 40 coupe in 4 years around North Carolina.

the hood scoops on the  silverish purple  40  plymouth are vintage cal custom  pieces,they were on the car when my  friend found it,not to our liking but to  remove them or delete them would require,metal work and  paint  matching,,,not in  his  budget at this time,,these 2  1940 cars are located in S,E,PA  by the way  i love concord N,C

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Started installing the new glass in the front doors today. My shop manual finally arrived from my buddy in Alberta and I've been pouring over it even though a lot of the information in it isn't relevant to my car anymore I still find it interesting. My shop manual show how to install the windows in a 4-door sedan with vent windows but since mine is a 2-door base model I've had to kinda wing it. Anyone have any secret tips on how to get the windows to roll up and down smoothly? Mine feel kinda tight. I've cleaned up and lubricated the regulators and they roll smoothly, I've greased all the slides and pivots but the glass rolls tighter than I would like. Is this just a matter of new fuzzies and new glass and it's going to take time to wear in, or is there a tip or adjustment? (it's not break something tight) The manual is vague on adjustments, it shows fairly good how to take something apart but then just says assembly is the reverse order. One of our helpers here suggested parafin wax on the edge of the glass, good idea?  

post-2834-0-28648700-1449373364_thumb.jpg

post-2834-0-40653300-1449373381_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Started installing the new glass in the front doors today. My shop manual finally arrived from my buddy in Alberta and I've been pouring over it even though a lot of the information in it isn't relevant to my car anymore I still find it interesting. My shop manual show how to install the windows in a 4-door sedan with vent windows but since mine is a 2-door base model I've had to kinda wing it. Anyone have any secret tips on how to get the windows to roll up and down smoothly? Mine feel kinda tight. I've cleaned up and lubricated the regulators and they roll smoothly, I've greased all the slides and pivots but the glass rolls tighter than I would like. Is this just a matter of new fuzzies and new glass and it's going to take time to wear in, or is there a tip or adjustment? (it's not break something tight) The manual is vague on adjustments, it shows fairly good how to take something apart but then just says assembly is the reverse order. One of our helpers here suggested parafin wax on the edge of the glass, good idea?  

i notice your wing windows are deleted,how  much was involved to do that ?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks, I know some guys like to remove the vent window to smooth out the look of the car, I'm kinda glad the factory did it for me. My '50 Chevy pickup has them but I don't ever open them, if I want air in the cab the cowl vent works wonders. Actually if I had removed the vent windows from my Chevy the thieves that broke into my truck when I was on holiday with it a few years back might have had a harder time getting in.

 

Also thanks JerseyHarold and Mr Bill, I squirted that silicone spray on every moving part and voila! window winds up and down perfectly.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Man I love that in bare metal. Makes me want to run right out in the driveway with the paint stripper. I'm havin a hard time leavin it alone

until I can get it in the garage to begin work in earnest. Sadly that won't happen until I am able to "turn" one of my other projects :(

Img_2919-1.jpg

Paint stripper is good to use as long as you understand you will never get it all cleaned away before you repaint,and within a few years your new paint will be peeling off.

 

My 51 Ford business coupe has top surfaces covered with surface rust,and like you,my shop is full and I can't get it inside before next spring. I am sanding it down to the bare metal a few square feet at a time,and then covering it with Rustoleum paint and primer 2 in 1 spray cans. Primer and paint in the same spray can. I have never used it before,but it's quicker and cheaper to use than the traditional "prime and then paint" spray can system and my goal is to preserve the car and keep it from rusting any more until I can get it inside and sand it down to the bare metal again and use self-etching primer and a good top coat.

 

Chances are I won't be able to stand the pressure,and will end up spraying it with random colors from partially used spray enamel cans I have on my shelf before long,though. I can be a little obsessed by rust.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Next pics are of woodgraining the dash. It's not an exact restoration of the wood graining originally found on the dash, but I'm happy with it. 1st step is to cover the dash in a truly ugly mustard color base paint. Next is the rubber based ink (dark brown). I get it from the local print shop. I thin the ink with camp stove fuel (naphtha, white gas etc) and use cheese cloth to spread it on the dash. Final step (not seen yet) is to wait 5-6 days for everything to evaporate and the clear coat the dash starting with thin coats. Then wet sand and polish...done."

 

Thanks for the explanation and the photo. I have always loved the look,but didn't have the first clue about how it was done.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Haha no kidding... I'm hoping to eventually try to do mine myself.  Never done it before, but gotta start somewhere!

Look at it this way. It gives you the excuse you need to justify buying all the tools you KNOW you have been wanting to buy anyway.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Finished wiring the tail lights and everything going to the trunk. After a lot of back and forth I decided to route the wires along the floor, I really like the safety of putting them above the headliner but future access worries won out. I had to stop wiring there because there's not enough of my dash put together to continue, however even after wet sanding and polishing the clear on the dash I still wasn't really happy so I scuffed the dash down again and shot another couple coats of clear. I'm much happier this time. I'm using a later dash center section and putting the headlight control and trunk release where the radio selectors would be which means I have to install the dash center. I've collected these pieces from all over the states (thanks ebay) but am not sure how they all go together. I painted behind the dash white to make it brighter to work under but you can see through and since I'm not putting a speaker behind the grill so I found some mesh to make it harder to see through. I do have a question about the ash tray what holds it to the dash grill center rivets, screws do I have it sitting in it right (see pic) does it attach to the dash itself? Also does it have anything to do with holding in the clock or clock delete? (I don't have either yet). I have so many directions I can go now that the car is painted it's hard to stay focused on one part, I seem to work on one aspect until I need something from town then I switch on to something else, it feels rather chaotic, but I'm trying to stay inside the car. :D  I think the steering wheel just caught my eye...

 

Here's a thought. Since you are not going to put a speaker behind the center section of that chrome P-15 Dash insert,why not put a hinge along the bottom and "snaps" at the top to hold it up,and mount the fuse box behind it? That way you could sit on the seat and just swing it down and replace fuses at eye level?

 

You could even mount it on a "sliding rail" like the old ashtrays,and roll it out where it'sw easier to get at if you wanted.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

knuckleharley, on 12 Dec 2015 - 08:10 AM, said:

 paint and primer 2 in 1 spray cans. Primer and paint in the same spray can.

 

pardon my jumping in here but I can see not see where this could be a good car body product...lawn furniture yes....now if this is just a stop gap measurement to save it from the element till you do a proper prep, forget I typed this....

 

2 in 1 paint & primer would be like the old thermos joke..keeps hot things hot and cold things cold so I put a cup of soup and a popsicle in it for my mid-day lunch...

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.

Terms of Use