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Rust free 40 plymouth sedan


40plyrod

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Ain't it nice to get back to a project with a fresh eye.  Allows one to take stock of how far you've come.  Good job, eh!  Points for outta the box thinking.  Great looking car.

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On 7/17/2014 at 10:41 PM, 40plyrod said:

Yup. Also known as "opsie" or the part I found in the bead blast cabinet that I meant to clean up and prime so it would be ready to paint last weekend. Wouldn't have been so bad if I had some paint left.  Insert Homer Simpson here...D'OH!

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Bummer. Sorry.  

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15 hours ago, mrwrstory said:

Ain't it nice to get back to a project with a fresh eye.  Allows one to take stock of how far you've come.  Good job, eh!  Points for outta the box thinking.  Great looking car.

Thank you. I'm enjoying "playing" with the Plymouth again. The planned projects this year are small with the intention of keeping the car drive-able each weekend.The funny part of taking stock of how far I've come is lately I've been looking though old pictures as I move them off our computer and onto a stick and I don't remember half the things I did! :eek:

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  • 1 year later...

Well I'm back at playing on the Plymouth again. Last year didn't turn out the way I thought ( "best laid plans of mice and men", I guess) so the Plymouth spent most of the year collecting dust in the corner of the shop. I'm still try to finish up some of the things that were overlooked in an effort to get it driving, some of which are not so much fun to complete and, of course are also the things that have to be done to pass inspection for collector status. One of the projects just completed was the heater. I updated it to 12 volts my local parts house had it in stock and it was a direct bolt in. When I was doing bodywork and smoothing the firewall I welded brackets to the inside so that I could mount the heater keeping the firewall smooth and I could drill holes for the hoses where I wanted them. This requires a little extra plumbing but also allowed me to hide the heater control valve. 

 

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Also finally got around to fixing my glove box lock. The "pusher part was broken and wouldn't stay in place and was finally lost somewhere along the Deuce Day cruise in 2016 (probably in the hotel parting lot in Vernon) Since then I've been having to use my keys or a pen to flip the catch but today I decided to fix it. I started with a 5/8" brass bolt. I was hoping for an aluminum bolt (we had an old friend that use to work for the shipyard and was always dropping off different bolts) but couldn't find one in our stash. Working from memory of what the original pusher looked like I turned this on the lathe. I used a spring out of a pen to detente the pin to keep it all together. Next job...headliner??

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On 11/4/2013 at 6:23 AM, 40plyrod said:

Thanks guys. Now begins the terrible task of block sanding.

Wow! After all that great work you’ve done  you’d think the blocksanding part would be easy.   

Im weird that I actually like block sanding. I find it therapeudic.

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  • 3 months later...

Time for an update on the Plymouth. The engine that is in the Plymouth now is ,from the serial number, the original motor for the car and runs fine but while the rest of the car got a complete rebuild the engine didn't get anything more than the oil pan removed and cleaned along with the pickup screen and a new oil pump. There wasn't a rebuilder's tag on the block and the last time the car was registered before I got it was 1977 so because I'm afraid to remove the head ( ignorance is bliss) and know the actual condition of the engine I've decided to build a new engine and just swap it out. With a monumental amount of help from David (dpollo on here) I am starting to collect and machine the parts necessary to put together a hopped up motor for the 40 (I'm a hot rodder at heart ?) So far the spitfire head was sent out to the local engine rebuilder and was checked for cracks and machined 40 thou. I've also sent out the cam and lifters for a surfacing and a custom torque regrind. Last weekend I spent some time cleaning up the block for paint and smoothing up some of the edges. IMG_20190323_192704004.jpg.372a06abee2ccb11093fed5387b931f8.jpg

Edited by 40plyrod
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10 hours ago, 40plyrod said:

The car? Yes!! The new motor? That'll be nip and tuck. It'll mostly depend at this point in how long it takes the cam grinder to get my cam back to me. Maybe a work party BBQ in July,?

I can bring a dozen or two to the work party.  BBQ always draws a crowd.

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10 hours ago, mrwrstory said:

I can bring a dozen or two to the work party.  BBQ always draws a crowd.

I'm hoping you will. ? Actually that would be an interesting experiment/story/race. Could I cook the burgers in the time it would take the two dozen crew to swap out the motors?? Of course I guess I could cheat and weight the odds in my favor by serving beer to the crew but if I won did I really win??

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Plyrod..........I don't suppose that you made a couple of spare glove box lock buttons just in case?..........lol.............I need one exactly the same as what you made, my car uses a plastic sort of knob thats worn..........you never know, there might be a market for these....lol..........andyd  

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Hey Andy, I'd love to reproduce and sell parts for Plymouths, I thought I was going to do that with the lower grill chin piece that was missing on my Plymouth but unfortunately I have a uncanny ability to do things the hard way which makes me never want to build something twice.??

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Spent some time smoothing and opening up the intake ports to match the gaskets. I read somewhere, though I don't remember where, that they shouldn't be polished too smooth leaving some roughness for turbulence so that's what I did. It may not make much difference one these engines anyway but I enjoy playing. Just wondering if there is any merit in doing the same thing to the exhaust ports? Anybody got any thoughts?

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How well does the gasket match the ports on the intake and exhaust manifolds. I would think opening up the engine and not the manifolds would be of much help??

 

If they motor is open and valves still out you may gain Some performance to clean up the bowls of the valve area to match the press in valve seats.

 

my 2 cents. Seems to have helped my 230ci. motor  when I rebuilt it.

 

DJ

Edited by DJ194950
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Port matching to the gaskets of both intake and exhaust circuits is more a feel good thing than something you will notice performance wise.  Especially in comparison to your experiencing a new and bigger engine.  You can also clean off casting flash and bumps and boogers in the bowls as well.  It's a "nice" thing to do for your new engine.

And yes, leave the surfaces as shown in your pic.  The roughness agitates the fuel mixture while a polished surface encourages pooling of the fuel.

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Decided to do some "feel good" engine machining and opened up the exhaust ports to match the gaskets. Checked the gaskets against all the surplus exhaust manifolds I have and the inlets seem to be slightly smaller than gasket so when I swap the engine out I'll plan to open up the inlets on my exhaust manifolds too. Next question what are the thoughts about painting the block before assembly? Pros, I guess is, it is perfectly clean and easy to tape and paint right now but a con would be the chance of chipping/scratching the paint during assembly. Opinions? 

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paint prior is my call...if you scratch a bit, touch it up...you will be installing accessories that will not be of the same color or may not require any paint at all.  Masking after the fact will be a bit more involved.  

 

On your porting, how does this same gasket match the actual manifold now?

Edited by Plymouthy Adams
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  • 1 month later...

Made progress this weekend. Got the engine taped up and painted! Also got the cam and lifters back from the regrinder so we're just about ready to start assembly. I'll post pictures of the painted engine but pictures of the cam aren't very interesting ( looks just like a cam ?)

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