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Rust free 40 plymouth sedan


40plyrod

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pardon my jumping in here but I can see not see where this could be a good car body product...lawn furniture yes....now if this is just a stop gap measurement to save it from the element till you do a proper prep, forget I typed this....

 

2 in 1 paint & primer would be like the old thermos joke..keeps hot things hot and cold things cold so I put a cup of soup and a popsicle in it for my mid-day lunch...

That's all I am doing. My coupe was parked in a barn for 25+ years,and the barn roof started leaking at some point,and since the car had at least 4 different coats of paint over no primer at all,the paint cracked and gave the water a place to sit instead of run off.

 

I plan on doing sanding it back down to the bare metal again and doing a proper job once I get everything else done and am ready to paint and upholstery,but for the time being this is just a preservation efffort to keep the rust pits from getting any deeper or new rust from starting.

 

Painting outside when the wind is blowing isn't any way to get a good paint job either,but it has to look better than the mess that was on it before I started.

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PP, What is a wizzerd?

A pissed off nerd?

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Well I'm back at it! I hope everyone had a happy holiday! Since wiring this car I've been plagued by electrical gremlins, some caused by mismatch of parts some caused by my own carelessness (see post #236) but I finally cured another today. My wiring kit was designed to work with GM components but no part #'s for these were given so I've had to rely on my local part house to guess at what I need by the look of the connector and they've done very well at it. Ever since I've installed the dimmer switch if I flashed the light a couple of times (high beam to low beam) I would blow the fuse and I've been over that part of the wiring with a fine tooth comb trying to see where I went wrong. Today I finally found the problem pretty much by accident (I mean by very thorough inspection :rolleyes: ) While removing the dimmer switch I accidentally broke the connector end off it and inside I saw that the contacts can and have been touching the case of the switch! Obviously these switches are meant to be isolated from the body of the car so every time I pressed the dimmer too hard it contacted the case and shorted straight to ground. New switch, insulated pad and bolts = problem solved :cool:   Picture #1 you can see the arcing inside the switch.

 

Now a question. I'm not using a GM column or their turn signal switch instead I'm using a clamp on style turn signal unit that I've seen commonly used on here, I've wired it properly I think and everything works right except the light on the signal unit stays on when the key is turned on during normal running. Is this normal? It flashes properly for left and right turn and when the hazzards are on but I have a similar unit on my truck and the light doesn't stay lit on it. My 1st thought was the unit maybe not grounded good enough and is being grounded through the bulb but after doing thorough job of making sure it's grounded, no change.  Any thoughts? Picture #2 is the signal unit with the light on.

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  • 4 weeks later...

Exhaust 2.0

Still trying to figure out why my turn signal indicator is on all the time or whether this is a problem or not but in the meantime decided to do something about my exhaust. A problem with the exhaust was made pretty clear to me on my 1st drive out the driveway (video posted a few pages back) The problem was mostly the mufflers and the clamp bolts hanging too far down so I picked up some mandrel u bends and raised the mufflers up into the frame closer to the floor. I'll still have to be careful on some speedbumps but it's much better and I'm ok with that. Adding the chrome tips took the most time but mostly because I skipped the "measure twice, cut once, weld once" step and ended up with a exhaust tip 3/4" longer than the other side. You wouldn't think it would be that obvious when comparing it against a curved bumper but it stuck out like a sore thumb. Here are some pics of the exhaust. 

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Sorry Bill I was too frustrated to snap a pic. I'm still amazed at how well you could see the difference with only a curved bumper for reference. It stayed that way for maybe half an hour while I decided if it was really noticeable or just me but in the end I couldn't take it and had to fix it. I'm just hoping that someone doesn't come along and ask why one exhaust is shorter than the other and point to the other side  :eek:

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You gotta nice 3/4 or side view pic of your car as it sits now?  Love to see a couple of the latest as I'm sure others would.  Your avatar is just a teaser!  BS  ;) 

 

Possibly by the end of the weekend. It's up on blocks right now with the rear axle removed so I can finish welding up the spring perches. . . plus it's awful dirty.

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Thanks guys! I'm getting closer to the finish line all the time. Did a quick list of what's left and it's encouraging, but it's the expensive stuff. Still got windshield, full interior as well as more chrome work and of course whitewalls to do. White walls are getting further out of reach all the time with our falling dollar and I priced out re-chroming the inner window moldings and at $300 each times 6 that's going to have to wait as well. So it might just be a windshield, a proper wheel alignment and drive.  :D

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40plyrod, on 01 Feb 2016 - 11:43 PM, said:

Thanks guys! I'm getting closer to the finish line all the time. Did a quick list of what's left and it's encouraging, but it's the expensive stuff. Still got windshield, full interior as well as more chrome work and of course whitewalls to do. White walls are getting further out of reach all the time with our falling dollar and I priced out re-chroming the inner window moldings and at $300 each times 6 that's going to have to wait as well. So it might just be a windshield, a proper wheel alignment and drive.  :D

cost of living going up....chance of living going down...

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  • 2 weeks later...

Thanks guys! I'm getting closer to the finish line all the time. Did a quick list of what's left and it's encouraging, but it's the expensive stuff. Still got windshield, full interior as well as more chrome work and of course whitewalls to do. White walls are getting further out of reach all the time with our falling dollar and I priced out re-chroming the inner window moldings and at $300 each times 6 that's going to have to wait as well. So it might just be a windshield, a proper wheel alignment and drive.  :D

ever  consider powder coating the window garnish ?

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There's a new company just north of here that specializes in custom finishes ie; painted chrome, carbon fiber, woodgraining and marble graphics. I believe they use a sort of decal based process but I'm going to check them out as soon as I have a minute and see what they can do and the cost. Here's a link to the website  http://www.shineonchrome.ca/ 

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There's a new company just north of here that specializes in custom finishes ie painted chrome, carbon fiber, wood graining and marble graphics. I believe they use a sort of decal based process but I'm going to check them out as soon as I have a minute and see what they can do and the cost. Here's a link to the website  http://www.shineonchrome.ca/  If the link isn't working try google shineonchrome nanaimo.

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there is a new process ive  seen  on a finished  39  ply at  the  pigeon  forge rod run,,was amazing, the dash and window garnish looked like a hunk of wood, im sure they must be able to do other finishes,,, i dont  know where but its called hydro dip

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