40plyrod Posted November 16, 2012 Author Report Share Posted November 16, 2012 I have finished painting the frame and now moving on to the suspension, but I am having a problem. All the joint bushings on the front suspension seem good and more freely execpt the right side upper bushing where it attaches the upright to the upper control arm. This one is very tight. My question is how does this come apart. There is obviously a eccentric to adjust camber. Which part threads off. I should note that my upper control arm is the cast type. Does anyone have an exploded diagram or can show me the parts disassembled? Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
40plyrod Posted December 1, 2012 Author Report Share Posted December 1, 2012 Well the learning curve was pretty steep today. The front suspension is complete so I moved on to dismantling and cleaning the motor. I took lots of pictures for future reference to ease the reassembly, all was going good until it came time to remove the intake and exhaust manifolds. I got all the bolts out without breaking them execpt one exhaust stud. I worked and worked to remove the manifold assembly but couldn't due to the 2 exhaust bolts that go through the manifold being rusted in. So I tried penatrating oil and heat, and still no luck, that's when I found the bolt I missed removing that holds the center intake port. It came off pretty easily after I removed it. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrwrstory Posted December 2, 2012 Report Share Posted December 2, 2012 Did the same kinda thing pulling my body off the frame. One bolt on an odd place that hid from me until I tried lifting the body. YEAH! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
40plyrod Posted February 7, 2013 Author Report Share Posted February 7, 2013 I have finally found my way around the new forum enough to start posting progress of my build again. The little break I took from working on it in December and early January help to renew my enthusiasm. I have now installed a t5 out of an s10 using a kit from Paul Curtis. The kit installed pretty easily and came with a new clutch disc. I also painted the motor and swapped out the pedal start starter for a key start starter. I was told that the starter would bolt right in but I had to relieve an area out of the nose part of the starter as well as redrill the dowel pin hole so I could rotate the starter body 180 to keep the electrical terminal from touching the block. Anyone have any info on starters or have experience with this? I have also split my exhaust manifold for dual exhaust. The manifold was much more difficult to weld than I had imagined, it also had spider web like cracks on the backside for the first port. Maybe from heat cycling? I ended up having to braze those. Next step will be the intake though I'm not sure what I'm going to do there yet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robert Horne Posted February 7, 2013 Report Share Posted February 7, 2013 More progress. My master cylinder install is now done, minus paint and plumbing. I'm pretty happy with the results. I ended up having to machine a new pin boss to weld to the brake pedal arm to get enough stroke for the ford master cylinder but the pedal ratio is still fine. More pics Sorry i missed your brake upgrade posts. On my 38, I used an aluminum 80s Dodge MC, the small one, for 10 years. I had to cut some off the MC mounting area to have room for the pedal to go all the way down. I used a Mustang MC on my 48 Dodge. The MC points rearward on the 48, works good... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
40plyrod Posted February 7, 2013 Author Report Share Posted February 7, 2013 Robert, Thanks for posting the pics. I had one of your pictures from a different thread printed and taped to the frame during my install to use as reference. Everything clears now and I just have to route the lines. Did you use any porportioner valve or residual pressure valves? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robert Horne Posted February 7, 2013 Report Share Posted February 7, 2013 I did not use any porportion valve or residual pressure valves. Brakes are working great since I installed the 95 Ranger 3.73 rearend.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
40plyrod Posted July 1, 2013 Author Report Share Posted July 1, 2013 I haven't updated my build in a while, this has been a very busy and difficult spring for farming but I have made some progress on the car. I finally decided to jump in with both feet and build an intake. I've always wanted a triple carb intake on an inline six and since I don't have very much time but I have even less money buying one wasn't an option. I picked up some 3/8" aluminum offcuts, a 2' piece of 2x2" box tubing and 1' of 1 1/4" tubing and started building. Total cost of material was $60. The pictures are pretty self explanatory but the 1st one is the 3/8 bolting flanges attached to the block. I cut the holes with a hole saw in a drillpress and cut the shape with a reciprocating saw. Then a lot of time with a hand file and a rotary file in a hand held drill. Pic 2 I cut the pipe to length with a miter saw and trued up the ends in the lathe. Pic 3 I drilled three hole in the 2x2 box tube with a hole saw and then fit it all together on the engine and tack welded it as well as capped the ends. Pic 4 shows the start of the plates I made up for the carb bases. Pic 5 I had to make up a jig to keep the carb base plates aligned. Pic 6 I always bolted the manifold to either the block or a spare intake to hold everything from warping when I did any welding. 1/4" and 3/8" aluminum takes a lot of heat to weld I had to move my welder to the farm shop to weld because it's wired heavier, I kept tripping the breakers at home. Pic 7 is the finished product minus the sanding and polishing. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Coatney Posted July 1, 2013 Report Share Posted July 1, 2013 WOW! great work! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
greg g Posted July 1, 2013 Report Share Posted July 1, 2013 Holy cow!! three deuces? Seems a lot for a 201, or did I miss somewhere its a later than 40 engine?? Even still what other mods are you planing? Are you going to run them with progressive linkage? Just thinking that its going to be over carbed, if you are going to be running 94/7's that the pattern suggests. Mice metal work, hope it works out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
40plyrod Posted July 1, 2013 Author Report Share Posted July 1, 2013 Thanks Don and Greg. The building of the manifold is the easy part. Making the progressive linkage and tuning it will be much harder. I'll be running it on this motor with the two outside carbs blocked off, but I have an old friend who has been collecting mopars and parts for years and we're going to build a motor and I hope to run all three progressively. It may not work but then I'll hang it on the shop wall and make up some tall tale about it. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrwrstory Posted July 1, 2013 Report Share Posted July 1, 2013 That's way cool! I'm thinking the progressive linkage would be the easy part. I like your backup plan of hanging it on the wall. I'm fantasizing about modifying an aluminum intake manifold for a blower but have not taken the plunge yet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
knuckleharley Posted July 1, 2013 Report Share Posted July 1, 2013 Yay!!! With the completion of the new running boards I finally have what I should have started with... a rust free plymouth. Oh well I gained experience and didn't put my family in financial jepardy. Pics so far You did some pretty work. Where did you buy those clamps to hold sheet metal together while butt welding it? I'd sure like to buy some. I've been using magnets. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Niel Hoback Posted July 1, 2013 Report Share Posted July 1, 2013 That is scary good looking! The pictures will be worth the work alone!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
james curl Posted July 1, 2013 Report Share Posted July 1, 2013 I am more than a little impressed with your skills, The exhaust looks killer, I have done three and used parts off of Chevrolet V8 exhaust manifolds and pointed them straight down, never thought to angle it back like that. Looks like it would be easier to get a tight fit that way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Coatney Posted July 1, 2013 Report Share Posted July 1, 2013 What carburetors are you planning on using? If you use Carter Webbers the progressive linkage is part of the carbs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
greg g Posted July 1, 2013 Report Share Posted July 1, 2013 The mounts his picture shows is the three bolt pattern typical of the carbs used on Ford Flatheads. Those are usually primary oly throttle butteflies and the linkage takes up the progressive deployment of the secondary carbs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Coatney Posted July 1, 2013 Report Share Posted July 1, 2013 Good point Greg. I should have looked closer at the holes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
40plyrod Posted July 2, 2013 Author Report Share Posted July 2, 2013 Hey guys thanks for the comments. Mr. Bill- making the manifold is just sticking metal together to make air go from A to B, linkages require math. KnuckleHarley- you can get those clamps in a lot of places now. I've seen them in eastwood's catalogue also in harbour freight. I bought mine from KMS tools here in Canada. You don't have to buy the expensive one the cheap ones work just fine. James - the reason I angled the exhaust like that was because of the oil pump and to stay as far away as possible from the fuel pump. I have heard of stories of people having trouble with over heating the pump. Don and Greg- You guessed it I have a set of early ford holley 94s rebuilt for the intake. Here's a couple more pictures 1st is the intake somewhat polished with the carb bases Pic 2 is my little play on a familiar name. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
james curl Posted July 2, 2013 Report Share Posted July 2, 2013 (edited) It is more than just sticking metal together, as it has to be air tight to work properly. So do not sell your skills short as I am sure it took a lot of practice to get to where you are now able to fabricate an intake manifold that looks that good. Edited July 2, 2013 by james curl Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrwrstory Posted July 2, 2013 Report Share Posted July 2, 2013 Mr. Bill- making the manifold is just sticking metal together to make air go from A to B, linkages require math. Math,...schmath! Visualization, some cardboard and a dozen metal trials gets it for me What I like as a welder is the opportunity to sketch in metal, i.e. tacking together quick approximations of an idea before committing to the final solution. Diff. from cardboard and/or wood ya don't have to wait for glue to dry and cutting wood makes me sneeze! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pflaming Posted July 2, 2013 Report Share Posted July 2, 2013 (edited) Add to that, some plywoods are TOXIC! I am studying the new floor pan. Evidently ttah floor does not have any inspection plates or do they get cut out? How did you put the score lines in? I know they are to add stiffness.. Did you buy some prepressed panels and the weld it all together.. Whatever, that is close to metal art. Edited July 2, 2013 by pflaming Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
40plyrod Posted July 3, 2013 Author Report Share Posted July 3, 2013 Thanks guys. James, the hole saw I used was slightly smaller than the pipe so I was able to turn the ends of the pipe on the lathe for a friction fit. It all held itself together before welding all I had to do was make sure the holes were in the right place. Mr. Bill, I come from the draw a picture and tack weld bits of stuff together first camp as well. I worked with a guy that could figure everything out with math on paper and never even draw a picture... I spent a lot of time not understanding and smiling and nodding. pflaming, not many inspection plates are needed. The brake master cylinder is far enough ahead to be accessed for under the hood, and I moved the battery to the inner fender. All the floor panels are homemade, the score lines were put in with a cheap bead roller I bought at our local tool house. I've also seen them at eastwood's and harbour freight. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pflaming Posted July 3, 2013 Report Share Posted July 3, 2013 (edited) 40: You tube had a video on bead rollers. WIll be getting one when I get to my floor. My floor won't be like yours but with a bead and flange roller and cutting dies I will at least have a chance. TOOLS got to have them, thanks. Jersey H: I do not have a shop that is welder friendly. I wlll need to make the pieces for the floor then push the car into the alley to weld. So the bead rollers are a good choice for me. New ground for me but "I take the roads less traveled" and thereby learn new things. Thank you anyway always nice to know alternatives. Edited July 3, 2013 by pflaming Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JerseyHarold Posted July 3, 2013 Report Share Posted July 3, 2013 Another method of adding ribs to replacement floor pans is to lay out your pattern with pieces of re-bar on a piece of scrap steel, then tack-weld them to the steel so they don't move. Once that is done, you lay your patch panel over the re-bar and hammer it down so the ribs become embossed on the patch panel. Somewhat crude but effective. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.