plyroadking Posted April 4, 2014 Report Share Posted April 4, 2014 Here's what one of mine measures out to Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Uncle-Pekka Posted April 5, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 5, 2014 ^Thanks! Tha's what I needed. Now the turning is done. I've got a aluminium brake drum. It's not perfect, there were some air or slag pits in my cast. However, it will do the job as well as the original. The advantage is that it's much lighter than the original. Most important, I've got it here where I need it to put the car back together. The hardest test is still to do, talking apart the 3-speed boxes and assembling one working unit with fluid drive input shaft and R10 behind it. That job should take place during the Easter holidays. To be continued... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Uncle-Pekka Posted April 18, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 18, 2014 Folks, need URGENt help. I am in garage, pulled both units apart, original 3speed and the od-3-speed side. Already swapped input shafts, went ok. just cannot get the brass synchro clutch gear off the main shaft. I took off the snap ring and the c.g. comes out the snap ring width, but no more. I've looked all I can think, but cannot figure it out... help! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Solution plyroadking Posted April 18, 2014 Solution Report Share Posted April 18, 2014 I usually take a block of oak and hammer and gently tap it forward Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Uncle-Pekka Posted April 18, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 18, 2014 (edited) False alarm. It was just a matter of force. I was afraid to use force since the pin type synchro clutch came off just by hand... The other obviously was much tightly on and had some burr on the snap ring groove. I'm in business again... Putting the od unit back together with fluid drive input shaft.... EDIT: Photo at the shop just before the swap of the guts: The 1954 pin type above, my original 1948 brass synchro below. 2014-04-18 13.19.17 by v.pekka Edited April 21, 2014 by Uncle-Pekka Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Uncle-Pekka Posted April 20, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 20, 2014 (edited) False alarm. It was just a matter of force. I was afraid to use force since the pin type synchro clutch came off just by hand... The other obviously was much tightly on and had some burr on the snap ring groove. I'm in business again... Putting the od unit back together with fluid drive input shaft. .. The mechanic part is done. The "mixed" unit is mounted in the car and the trans seems to work as tested by 100m drive round the garage. (floor and pedal pads are still off). The holiday is almost over. Thus I'll not have time to do the O.D electrics now. Still I am very pleased with the job accomplished... Thanks to all valuable advice, especially to Roadking, Ed and Tim. Pekka EDIT: At the garage door just before test drive: Edited April 21, 2014 by Uncle-Pekka Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BobT-47P15 Posted April 20, 2014 Report Share Posted April 20, 2014 There should be a kickdown switch on the side of the carb...which is activated by throttle linkage. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Uncle-Pekka Posted April 22, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 22, 2014 I have all the electric parts with me; the solenoid, kickdown switch, lockout switch and the relay, they are just not wired/connected yet. I do consider the location of the kickdown currently: on the throttle linkage as original setup (I do not have support bracket, not any drawings or photos where & how) on the dash similar to Young Ed did below the gas pedal on the floor (has anyone done this before?) toggle switch in the shift lever knob as Pete (Blueskies) did - need an extra relay to hook the low current switch a separate foot operated push button on the floor, may be next to clutch ??? Pros & cons? Again I have time to consider the alternatives since I had to drive back from the garage site to home last night. It will be 2-4 weeks before I get back there to finalize the wiring & stuff. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Young Ed Posted April 22, 2014 Report Share Posted April 22, 2014 The original throttle or carb mounted linkage requires wide open throttle to engage the kickdown. Your under the gas pedal would be the same. I believe some of the other brands of cars that came with OD did that. To me that is the only big pro/con to stock type setups vs a button somewhere else. Otherwise my dash button or floor button is just a matter of location preference. I may be revisiting mine because the dual heater doesn't give me a good route for the lockout cable and it doesn't move freely. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Uncle-Pekka Posted May 31, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 31, 2014 She's running! Yesterday I completed the OD wiring, ran the 1st test run and passed the state inspection, thus we're all set for the summer! fresh photo: Only some minor (I hope) electric problem appeares: It seems that the overdrive is able to encage at which speed at all. When I move the car on 1st gear the OD encages. If I try to reverse, the reverse gear does not encage unless I hit the kickdown first (dash mounted for now). I suspect it may be defect or dirty governor or just some logical failure in my wiring job... It will be investigated further in detail during the summer vacation in July, if not earlier. On the road she's now just great. The torque is mellow to pull from 30 to 70 mph on the "4th gear", 3rd + OD... This is my dream come true with the D24. Once more BIG Thanks to all of you! First and foremost Tim A., Roadking and Young Ed. Without the technical help and encourage by the great folks here at forum I doubt I would have been able to put the OD transmission together for my car. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plymouthy Adams Posted May 31, 2014 Report Share Posted May 31, 2014 Thames in the background ???? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Uncle-Pekka Posted May 31, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 31, 2014 Thames in the background ???? Nope, It's a 1962 Renault R4 fourgonette van... Commercial version of the famous 60's french all purpose buggy. Sports a 30 hp 745cc four in-liner and 3-speed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plymouthy Adams Posted May 31, 2014 Report Share Posted May 31, 2014 I never would have guess French...my second guess was going be Morris...lol....it did not make a big target in the picture....are your plans to be to spiff it up a bit? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigDaddyO Posted May 31, 2014 Report Share Posted May 31, 2014 Wow! That's almost as cute as a Crosley. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plymouthy Adams Posted May 31, 2014 Report Share Posted May 31, 2014 Crosley and cute..you cannot use them two words in the same sentence..you could say. "I had an acute migraine that rendered me incapable or sane thoughts, went shopping and come home with a Crosley" 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Uncle-Pekka Posted June 1, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 1, 2014 I never would have guess French...my second guess was going be Morris...lol....it did not make a big target in the picture....are your plans to be to spiff it up a bit? Well, Tim... I've got a lot of plans, but so little time. Or to put it more franly: I am not very effectively using my time on the things I plan to do. Maybe a couple of millions jackpot in the lottery would help me to run my life more independently? The van was bound for crusher some five years back when my neighbour cleaned his summer house back yard. Of course I could not let it happen thus brought it home with me. My vaque plan is to make it roadworthy one of these years, then use it as "shop truck". It's very spartan vehicle but extremely handy due to small turning circle, good driveability and relatively high ground clearence. There's a big back door to make loading easy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Young Ed Posted June 1, 2014 Report Share Posted June 1, 2014 Glad to see you've gotten it going! How is your homemade parking brake going? My own OD install seems to still be working too. My only issue is the mounting of the lockout cable makes it hard to pull and I'm not sure where else I can put it since I have dual heaters. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Uncle-Pekka Posted June 1, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 1, 2014 Ed, the parking brake works ok, of course, after all, it's well made Seriously, at the state inspection they do a dyno test for all the brakes. The front wheels gave ca. 2,2 kNm, rear 2.0 and the parking brake at rear wheels 1,7 kNm, which was better value than with the original steel drum. It does not shake neither, but that was no worry in advance. I knew that lighter material drum turned all over would be better balanced than the original. As I wrote yesterday, the governor is under suspicion due to the OD encages on low speeds... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DJ194950 Posted June 2, 2014 Report Share Posted June 2, 2014 (edited) Easy to check, but under car. Disconnect wire on the governor and check contact for ground. Should Not be grounded. Usually gets stuck where weights will not move out and give a ground to the relay to engage OD solenoid. But in normal operation after achieving a ground at set speed, the governor wire goes to the reverse lockout switch. OD should Never be able to engage when in reverse because the reverse rod in the trans is supposed to push rearward on the OD engagement rod and open the reverse switch ground from the governor then to the OD relay. Some ideas to check? Good luck, glad the OD works, I love mine! DJ Edited June 2, 2014 by DJ194950 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Young Ed Posted June 2, 2014 Report Share Posted June 2, 2014 Ed, the parking brake works ok, of course, after all, it's well made Seriously, at the state inspection they do a dyno test for all the brakes. The front wheels gave ca. 2,2 kNm, rear 2.0 and the parking brake at rear wheels 1,7 kNm, which was better value than with the original steel drum. It does not shake neither, but that was no worry in advance. I knew that lighter material drum turned all over would be better balanced than the original. As I wrote yesterday, the governor is under suspicion due to the OD encages on low speeds... I had the opposite problem. I had to open my gov up and sand the contacts to make it engage at all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Uncle-Pekka Posted August 2, 2014 Author Report Share Posted August 2, 2014 Up-date; a couple of weeks ago I took the car on the pit. Following DJ's instrucions the problem was in the governor. So I took it out. Looked OK. I just took off the top cover with the contacts. I cleaned it and washed in petroleum. Checked action in bench by pulling the center shaft by hand. Installed - And the system works like a charm! Now my final quest is to adjust the lever linkage - I've got occasional problem to get in the 3rd gear. Requires accurate but firm wrist movements... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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