matthew5olson Posted August 2, 2012 Report Share Posted August 2, 2012 Figured I'd start an official build thread instead of posting on my intro thread. I will just continue where my intro thread left off. Here is the link for anyone wanting to read the beginning of my story: http://www430.pair.com/p15d24/mopar_forum/showthread.php?t=28934 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matthew5olson Posted August 2, 2012 Author Report Share Posted August 2, 2012 So today I went and picked up my front axle from the machine shop. They we're able to get the old kingpin out and press/ream the new bushings. Total cost for labor was $100, parts were about $70. I just have to finish cleaning the axle and spindles up and then I will paint them. Then I just have to install the disc brake upgrade. My next big step is to get the motor and tranny mounts welded up. At the advice of my welder friend I chose to put the cab on now so we didn't have any clearance issues later. I was only thinking of all the room we would have with just the bare frame. So I got 2 other guys to help me with the cab. We struggled a bit but between tripping over the crossmembers and dropping the cab on my hand we got it in the garage and lined it up. Before I put the motor in place I need to clean the firewall. I'm going to paint it with lizard skin ceramic paint to keep the heat out. I may try a diy lizard skin. I found some "recipes" involving ceramic balls and paint. Anyone have any luck with either the name brand or a knockoff? Oh and the horn on the top right of the firewall still works. Awesome! Tomorrow's agenda is to clean and prep the tranny, steering components, front axle, and spindles for painting. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
4msfamly Posted August 2, 2012 Report Share Posted August 2, 2012 I love your project, and you're doing great work, but save your life and invest in some REAL jack stands and ditch those cinder blocks! They've been known to collapse suddenly, and kill those under them. Search Member abolton's thread. He has a '54 (same frame as yours and my 55) that he put a 360 and 727 tranny I believe. He did do some firewall work, but I think that was mostly related to his MII swap and the cross member. Regardless, there's some great ideas in his thread. Great pics! Marc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Todd B Posted August 2, 2012 Report Share Posted August 2, 2012 Excellent advice about the cement blocks. Extremely dangerous!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plymouthy Adams Posted August 2, 2012 Report Share Posted August 2, 2012 good advice for sure..especially in the manner in which they are being used..they will hold a tremenous amout of weight when laid properly and if you use a piece of wood to displace the "sharp edge" effect of the frame.. jack stands are very inexpensive these day..I have been know to have to use up to 10 at a time for certain body lift procedures.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ggdad1951 Posted August 2, 2012 Report Share Posted August 2, 2012 safety first! YIKES! Looking good, will watch with eager eyes as you progress! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HanksB3B Posted August 2, 2012 Report Share Posted August 2, 2012 Excellent advice about the cement blocks. Extremely dangerous!!!!!!!!!!!!!! +1 on that! Harbor Freight has 3-ton Jack Stands this month for $16.99/pr. Hank Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matthew5olson Posted August 2, 2012 Author Report Share Posted August 2, 2012 The back is on jackastands. I had the front on jackstands also and my father-in-law had to use them. I wasn't worried when it was just the bare frame but thank you for pointing it out. I forgot those things tend to crumble right about when you need them. I'll get them changed back over next time I'm over there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matthew5olson Posted August 3, 2012 Author Report Share Posted August 3, 2012 The truck is now on safely on jackstands. I also order a ceramic paint additive today to paint the firewall with. HY-Tech was the name of the place. I'll post up as to how it works. I won't really have anything to compare it to though as I'll have never driven the truck without it. How hot do your truck get? Did most of you add some kinda of heat barrier? Should I also look into painting the underside of the roof too? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plymouthy Adams Posted August 3, 2012 Report Share Posted August 3, 2012 The truck is now on safely on jackstands. I also order a ceramic paint additive today to paint the firewall with. HY-Tech was the name of the place. I'll post up as to how it works. I won't really have anything to compare it to though as I'll have never driven the truck without it. How hot do your truck get? Did most of you add some kinda of heat barrier? Should I also look into painting the underside of the roof too? I would think the ceramic additive for the paint would be for extended temperature before discoloration to the paint and be applied to metal that is in close approximity to the heat. Cosmetic thing only.. I do not know if the paint is goint to be able to actually shield and give less heat transfer in a thin 6-8 mil thickness..actually I see it absorbing the heat and maybe provide greater heat sink by creating a larger dissipation area thus maybe providing a better path to share over the entire surface more so than reflecting or being a barrier..I would think you would address the heat on the passenger side of the firewall for compartment comfort in the same manner they still do in today's vehicles where tight overcrowded compartments are prone to high heat of todays higher engine operating temps overall. A good dense foam will go a long way here..Painting the hood with this paint underside would only go again as far as cosmetically making it look good..the air barrier between the engine and hood is very great and the fan is constantly moving some air..your need to have a barrier paint is again to me a cosmetic reason and is not in my opinion necessary allow you any control over the heating of the surface of the firewall..the ceramic is not an insualtor as much as it is a catalyst to up the ante.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matthew5olson Posted August 3, 2012 Author Report Share Posted August 3, 2012 I would think the ceramic additive for the paint would be for extended temperature before discoloration to the paint and be applied to metal that is in close approximity to the heat. Cosmetic thing only.. I do not know if the paint is goint to be able to actually shield and give less heat transfer in a thin 6-8 mil thickness..actually I see it absorbing the heat and maybe provide greater heat sink by creating a larger dissipation area thus maybe providing a better path to share over the entire surface more so than reflecting or being a barrier..I would think you would address the heat on the passenger side of the firewall for compartment comfort in the same manner they still do in today's vehicles where tight overcrowded compartments are prone to high heat of todays higher engine operating temps overall. A good dense foam will go a long way here..Painting the hood with this paint underside would only go again as far as cosmetically making it look good..the air barrier between the engine and hood is very great and the fan is constantly moving some air..your need to have a barrier paint is again to me a cosmetic reason and is not in my opinion necessary allow you any control over the heating of the surface of the firewall..the ceramic is not an insualtor as much as it is a catalyst to up the ante.. Check out Lizardskin. I'm basically doing that. It's recommended application is a 40 mil coat. I know the lizardskin works I just don't feel like spending 100 a gallon for it. If the additive I got works half as good I'll be happy. I thought about using a foam as well. I plan on using DynaDeck on the floor after it is painted. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matthew5olson Posted August 10, 2012 Author Report Share Posted August 10, 2012 Update: So I bought an engine crane and stand so I can clean/paint/freshen up the tranny and motor. I mounted the tranny on the stand yesterday. I figured to change the filter while I had easy access. I pulled the pan and found a large piece of metal in the pan. After some online searching I found out it was the band strut. I guess the tensioning bolt vibrated loose during transport and the strut fell out. Only problem was I had to take apart some stuff to get it back together. By the time it was all back together I was out of time for painting. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matthew5olson Posted August 10, 2012 Author Report Share Posted August 10, 2012 And today I painted the tranny, front axle, and steering components. tomorrow I'll mount the engine and start cleaning it up. I bought some rims and tires the other day. black steelies off a newer honda. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matthew5olson Posted August 10, 2012 Author Report Share Posted August 10, 2012 So when I put the cab on last week I thought I had lost one of my cab mount bushings (the rubber pieces) After a bunch of searching on the board today to try to find where I could buy new ones I saw that the driver's front doesn't use a bushing under the frame mount. I am so relieved. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ggdad1951 Posted August 10, 2012 Report Share Posted August 10, 2012 So when I put the cab on last week I thought I had lost one of my cab mount bushings (the rubber pieces) After a bunch of searching on the board today to try to find where I could buy new ones I saw that the driver's front doesn't use a bushing under the frame mount. I am so relieved. yep and the single drivers mount SHOULD be a harder rubber than the rest, but no one makes one harder so either you use your original (if salvagable) or deal with a softer new one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheMoose Posted August 10, 2012 Report Share Posted August 10, 2012 yep and the single drivers mount SHOULD be a harder rubber than the rest, but no one makes one harder so either you use your original (if salvagable) or deal with a softer new one. Would a trimmed hockey puck work? nice & solid rubber. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ggdad1951 Posted August 10, 2012 Report Share Posted August 10, 2012 Would a trimmed hockey puck work? nice & solid rubber. I'd say so, about the same durometer as my original I reused. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matthew5olson Posted August 10, 2012 Author Report Share Posted August 10, 2012 Would a trimmed hockey puck work? nice & solid rubber. haha,I was actually thinking of giving my truck a 6 inch body lift using all hockey pucks. That would look cool right? Especially if I don't lift the running boards. ggdad1951 - Thanks for the advice on the one harder one. I'll stab each one to find it. It would be nice if it was already where it needed to be but I doubt it. My rubber mounts are all in great shape. I'll double check them all for cracks or dry-rot. Wished I would've written down which spacers went where. I just thought they were washers when I took them off. They all went into the same bucket. Now I'll have to re-level it. oh well. Now I know for next time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matthew5olson Posted August 21, 2012 Author Report Share Posted August 21, 2012 So I've been working on the motor the last couple weeks. I wanted to just freshen up the motor but it turns out my '85 318 was equipped with the lean burn system and removing it required a new carb and ignition system. I figured if I was getting a new carb I might as well upgrade to a 4 barrel. And buy a new cam to make use of my new intake/carb/headers. I just ordered all of my motor parts today.I have the good 302 casting heads, the ones with the heart shaped ports. I wanted to upgrade the valves to 1.88 int and 1.60 exhaust but money is a little tight. Not getting a valve job saved me over $300 between valves and cutting the new seats. So here's my motor specs: 85 dodge w150 318 stock motor 302 casting heads, decked .010, ported stock 340 4 barrel intake. edelbrock 600cfm carb comp cams 20-223-3 cam kit w/ new springs, lifter etc.. 268/280 4.77/4.80 110 224/230 @ .050 lift brand new electronic ignition system headers Feel free to offer opinions/advice on my setup. Was just trying for a budget "wakeup" for my motor. Want something that has a decent amount of power and will have good throttle response going up these pennsylvania hills. My 95 jeep cherokee had a stock, fuel injected 318 and I was extremely happy with the output on it. I should be turning out higher numbers than that motor. I have a 3.91 posi-rear by the way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
albolton Posted August 21, 2012 Report Share Posted August 21, 2012 (edited) You put anything in a light little truck like that and you will be happy, i found I had to run a mini starter on mine, i picked up a starter from a 2000 durango at napa, works really well and is half the size, your 57 has a very narrow frame and there isnt much room for exhaust, also dont skip headers, I run headman shorties, and flowmaster 40s both out the right side so they clear the fuel tank, and they sound and work great, also if you can afford it dump that electronic ignition you have and run a MSD, even the ready to run version is WAY better than the stock mopar electronic, plus it gives you a built in rev limiter, Edited August 21, 2012 by albolton Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matthew5olson Posted August 21, 2012 Author Report Share Posted August 21, 2012 I do need a starter so I will wait till I weld up the motor mounts to buy a one in case I also need a mini. The ignition system was Summit brand. I looked at the MSD but it's an extra 150 bucks. I'm trying to save money because I know there's going to be a bunch of extra stuff that I'm going to need to buy that I didn't plan for. If it gives me any trouble or I want to upgrade later I can always buy it. Good point on the headers I was going to get long-tubes but maybe I'll grab both of them (used from my cousin, he has a set of each) and see what fits better. I prefer to have them exit out the right side. I wasn't sure whether I wanted 40's or 44's What size motor and cam do you have? I had a single flowmaster 40 on my '04 tacoma with a 3.4V6 and no cats. It sounded great. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matthew5olson Posted August 21, 2012 Author Report Share Posted August 21, 2012 Oh and tonight the block is getting completely cleaned off so that I can't paint it tomorrow. I have ford corporate blue and aluminum colored engine paint. And black, but I have to check if the black will handle the heat on the oil pan ok. Any paint scheme ideas using those colors from you guys are welcomed. I was thinking block and heads blue, intake, valve covers, and timing cover aluminum, and the oil pan black. I could also do someting where I painted all the bolt heads aluminum. Let me know your ideas. the blue is a darker blue, in between royal and navy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
albolton Posted August 21, 2012 Report Share Posted August 21, 2012 (edited) im pretty big on just the proper mopar blue myself, or orange on the older engines, if your looking to fab mounts look at Paul Horton welder Series, they have an online catalogue and have an awesome mopar mount, dont forget to box the frame at least in the area that the mount is, but while your at it you might as well box more, I also welded the rivited joints to stiffen it up a bit, here is a few pics during the build, you may find you need the shorty headers because as you can see its very tight, im running a 360 .060 over, J heads , balanced , 2800 stall converter and a 727 with a good shift kit ...I actually am running the comp cams Thumper, and a milidon gear drive Duration 279 296 Lift .486 .473, even if you are building a budget engine balancing is well worth the money, it costs way less than you think and if nothing else will greatly extend the life of your engine...definitely money in the bank Edited August 21, 2012 by albolton Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave72dt Posted August 21, 2012 Report Share Posted August 21, 2012 Another Paul Horton fan! I have their M II coilover setup under mine and fabbed my own engine mounts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
albolton Posted August 21, 2012 Report Share Posted August 21, 2012 Another Paul Horton fan! I have their M II coilover setup under mine and fabbed my own engine mounts. im lucky, his shop is literally 5 minutes from my house Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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