54Illinois Posted June 27, 2012 Report Share Posted June 27, 2012 This thing leaks like a dam made of swiss cheese. It only leaks when the car runs, and its all coming from the bell housing/converter area. After doing some post searching and reading, it looks like I can raise the car, and pull the tranny from the converter via four bolts. I figured using a big floor jack with a small sheet of plywood for support for the engine. My big concern is disconnecting cables and the emergency brake. I would think this would be similar to other transmissions? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
54Illinois Posted July 15, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 15, 2012 Well I received an "external seal" kit from Northwest Transmissions Parts. http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=northwest%20transmissions&source=web&cd=1&ved=0CHEQFjAA&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.nwtparts.com%2F&ei=rs8CUJaSAsLWqgG4veiwDA&usg=AFQjCNFnFpj56PZWSj26HDcDKMpKbQJoGg&cad=rja. Here is my question...I am going to pull the tranny from the torque converter and bell housing. The torque converter is bolted to the crankshaft. The only thing holding up the converter will be the crankshaft. Is a torque converter heavy enough to warp the rear of the crankshaft while the rest of the transmission is out? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
54Illinois Posted July 15, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 15, 2012 What supports it any other time??? The crankshaft and the rest of the transmission. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Niel Hoback Posted July 15, 2012 Report Share Posted July 15, 2012 The answer is no, but I think you can unbolt the converter from the "flexplate/flywheel" before you slide the trans back. Then pull the converter off the input shaft and change the seal. Reverse to install. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
54Illinois Posted July 16, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 16, 2012 The converter has to stay...I am pulling the transmission off the bell housing which contains the converter. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Niel Hoback Posted July 16, 2012 Report Share Posted July 16, 2012 Oy, I'm glad its you and not me. At any rate, don't worry about bending the crank. Do you have any kind of shop manual or Motor's manual to look at? I think I may have one if you need me to read something for you. I'll check tomorrow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
54Illinois Posted July 16, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 16, 2012 Oy, I'm glad its you and not me. At any rate, don't worry about bending the crank. Do you have any kind of shop manual or Motor's manual to look at? I think I may have one if you need me to read something for you. I'll check tomorrow. I will take pics. I have a spare trans that came with the motor (motor now in car running) I thought about replacing the seals on that one, then swapping them out. I see no reason it would not work...the motor works great. I have the Plymouth PowerFlite manual, Motors as well...Appreciate the offer! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big Swede Posted September 29, 2015 Report Share Posted September 29, 2015 How did your seal swap go? I have a feeling this will be one of my first issues to address with my '55 Plymouth with the Powerflite. Front seal is leaning like a sieve. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
austinsailor Posted September 29, 2015 Report Share Posted September 29, 2015 (edited) I did this when I was 16, under the car, using my chest as the transmission jack. 1955 Plymouth 6. Replaced the front seal, put it back and it lasted many years. Edited September 29, 2015 by austinsailor 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dodgeb4ya Posted September 29, 2015 Report Share Posted September 29, 2015 (edited) Drain the torque converter (7/16" Hex Plugs) and also the transmission pan by removing the fill tube before you start..or you will have a bloody red mess. The Torque converter stays inside the bell housing bolted to the crank. There is a cover behind the E-brake drum remove it to be able to unhook the E-brake cable ball and cable housing from the trans. Remove other items shift linkage ect. Four 5/8" bolts fasten the trans to the aluminum bell housing... use a proper jack to carefully slide it back and out. Use a high quality absolutely correct exact replacemnt RED RUBBER front seal. You're job to find that! Cheap Chinese replacement seals will leak after a short time they do not fit the TQ as tight as the original MoPar seal. Be careful to properly line up the oil pump front drive sleeve shown in pitures. Make sure it is pushed back into the trans all the way by hand other wise the trans will not go into the bell housing the last 1/4". Trans needs to be carefully and gently installed into the bell housing and will push in all the way flush. Do not use bolts to pull it in the last 1/4"!! Pics of a parts car PowerFlite Trans.... Bob Edited October 21, 2017 by Dodgeb4ya 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big Swede Posted September 30, 2015 Report Share Posted September 30, 2015 Thanks AustinSailor and Dodgeb4ya. Very informative! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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