ntxcustoms Posted June 24, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 24, 2012 I have the springs out of the control arms as the whole front end is being rebuilt. With the plate, disks, calipers, and steering arms on I can go through full suspension travel and turn without any interference. I am lowering the car a little and have done so by moving the coil spring plate to the bottom of the arm (a common shoebox ford trick). My next step is to make brackets and dog bone to install the cavalier rack. I know there are some kits out there for this but they are pricey and that would be no fun.;) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yourpc48 Posted June 24, 2012 Report Share Posted June 24, 2012 I have the springs out of the control arms as the whole front end is being rebuilt. With the plate, disks, calipers, and steering arms on I can go through full suspension travel and turn without any interference. I am lowering the car a little and have done so by moving the coil spring plate to the bottom of the arm (a common shoebox ford trick). My next step is to make brackets and dog bone to install the cavalier rack. I know there are some kits out there for this but they are pricey and that would be no fun.;) Getting the angles correct might bring that rack a little further forward than without moving the steering arms forward but not by much. I had the original steering in mine still. I lowered mine by cutting the spring a bit (I did a coil and a half and wished I had done just 1 coil). I did not switch or modify my steering arms and after adjusting the toe in I didnt have any more bump steer than when it was stock. Sure the tires might wear funny but I didnt run into that either. The tires were wearing normally as far as I could tell. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andydodge Posted June 24, 2012 Report Share Posted June 24, 2012 I use Oz mid 60's Valiant tie rod ends on my setup, although I have to admit there is a piece of 1" hex bar adapting the Austin 1800 rack arms to the 1962 Oz Chrysler Royal(for USA readers read 1953-56 Plymouth) steering arms..........anything can be made to fit if you want badly enough...........lol.................andyd Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MiltYergens Posted June 26, 2012 Report Share Posted June 26, 2012 The extension of the plate for the steering arms to compensate for the short throw of the R/P setup is a great idea! See the discussion on this thread: http://www430.pair.com/p15d24/mopar_forum/showthread.php?t=21808 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ntxcustoms Posted June 27, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 27, 2012 I am doing a rack conversion and I have read the posts about turn radius problems. I figured we could kill two birds with one stone setting up the caliper mounts this way, and you should be able to make a simple straight bracket to move the steering arm forward even without disks. I'm on vacation and will get back to it when I get back. Thanks! Tyler Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yourpc48 Posted June 27, 2012 Report Share Posted June 27, 2012 I think that when you came up with your idea to move the arm forward as part of your bracket design it was an "ah ha" moment (smacking forehead with palm) for several people including myself. Great idea! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ntxcustoms Posted June 29, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 29, 2012 I'm back in town after some relaxing time off. I'm heading to the local steel yard in hopes of finding some 3/8" drops. i had planned on using 1/2" but I figure that's over kill for the complete bracket and will instead just double up the steering bracket area or add a 1/4" inch plate on top. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fstfish66 Posted July 4, 2012 Report Share Posted July 4, 2012 SO IT CAN BE DONE,,,SOME ONE HAS RE-INVENTED THE WHEEL,,,, NICE IDEA:cool: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thumbtack Posted July 4, 2012 Report Share Posted July 4, 2012 I printed out the pattern from ntxcustoms for use on my 51 meadowbrook. Cut it out and glued it to some card stock. The two bottom holes on the spindle lined up perfect! However, the top hole I had to cut it and adjust it by glueing a piece in on the pattern. I am trying to use the small GM calipers. I ordered the caliper brackets from paul hortons welderseries. http://www.welderseries.com/blog/online-store/category/caliper-bracket-parts/ I am going to try and use the pattern and make a bracket and weld the two together. BTW, the part number was so welcome for the lug studs! Went in like nobody's beeswax! I had my hubs turned down the same like you said! Works great! Thanks so much for the part numbers!! We shall se how the rest works out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ntxcustoms Posted July 5, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 5, 2012 (edited) Hey Thumbs, glad it helped! The top hole you had to change was for the caliper mount or upper spindle holes? My spindle holes were located directly on the spindle so they should be dead on. If the top holes didn't line up then maybe the 51 4 bolt calipers differ slightly? The caliper mount holes were located much the same way yourpc48 did his. Have fun! Tyler I will repost the bracket either on grid paper or with a ruler next to it for reference. Edited July 5, 2012 by ntxcustoms Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thumbtack Posted July 5, 2012 Report Share Posted July 5, 2012 It wasn't a problem with your scan, as the bottom two holes lined up perfect. I think it has do do with mine being a different spindle. The hole im referencing is the extreme top hole that the drum brake backing plate would bolt to. Maybe mine was 11"?? Ill have to measure the drum and see. I do know it is a three hole spindle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ntxcustoms Posted July 6, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 6, 2012 Ahh! If your spindles are three holed then you must have used yourpc48's scan as mine are four hole. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thumbtack Posted July 6, 2012 Report Share Posted July 6, 2012 Hmm... you would be correct! :DIm watching both threads comparing notes and I lost my place! Sorry. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yourpc48 Posted July 6, 2012 Report Share Posted July 6, 2012 Hmm... you would be correct! :DIm watching both threads comparing notes and I lost my place! Sorry. LOL. Go ahead and post it up on my thread if you want. I was told that only the P15 spindles will be able to use the bracket as scanned the way I made mine. The 46-48 Plymouth had their own spindles. If you can get it to work with a slight modification that would be great. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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