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Is it the fuel pump?


47heaven

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I'd just start looking for an original used rust free tank. They are out there. Might take a bit of searching to find one. Any Chrysler/Dodge /DeSoto or Plymouth 1941-8 are all the same except Straight 8 Chrysler being a 20 gallon tank.

Bob

Bob, I'm dropping the tank today. I have a buddy who says he can take the tank and clean it out completely back to how it was originally. If it's beyond salvaging, then I'll see what can be done from there. Thanks for the info on what other tanks I can swap...I wasn't aware of that. Now, I am. That's why I come here with questions. Thanks, again. :)

Darin

P.S. What other ways are there to keep the tank from rusting, other than putting a sealer on it, which doesn't seem to do well with today's gas?

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Thanks, Rockwood. That was a good idea, which is why I come here. Thanks, again.

This may be a viable option, as long as the debris, from the tank, does not clog the line too.

I am not sure my idea is the correct idea, but I would be inclined to try it.

Get 2 or 3 of the see through plastic fuel filters, install 1 prior to fuel pump, in a spot thats easy for you to go and change them as needed, keep 2 on hand .

Then search for a replacement tank, either used, NOS or aftermarket.

The aftermarket tank I have, requires the fuel sender to go in in an opposite direction, no big deal. The tank straps into place, very close to OEM stock tanks, the filler neck, fits pretty good too. There is a roll over valve, that also vents the tank.

Have a look at this website,,, www.tanksinc.com

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Hey 47, when you ask for others to chime in (Originally Posted by 47heaven

Anyone else is free to chime in with suggestions) and then they do, isn't this a bit of be careful for what you wish for coming true???? You asked for others to chime in and then when they do you get your boxers in a bunch.

The problem with scatter gun longs distance diagnosis, is you are going to have to decide whose advice you take and whose you ignore, especially when after haveing had several you ask for more.

By the by there is a brass screen in most fuel pumps, and if you have the variety sans glass bowl, they have a hollow bolt holding the lower chamber cover on, you remove it to access the screen.

If you put it back in with out checking the passage through the bolt, you may still have a problem. Just saying.....

So when your little slice of heaven gets its corners fouled by what you consider to be unwanted material, perhaps you need to also take a chill pill. Your remarks regarding Don's replys are much more billious spewing than his comments.

And before I get accused of defending Don (who certainly doesn't need my support) I merely wish to point out your reaction seems a bit over the top. No room in your life for a bit of ribbing, and or long distance noogies????

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Hey 47, when you ask for others to chime in (Originally Posted by 47heaven

Anyone else is free to chime in with suggestions) and then they do, isn't this a bit of be careful for what you wish for coming true???? You asked for others to chime in and then when they do you get your boxers in a bunch.

The problem with scatter gun longs distance diagnosis, is you are going to have to decide whose advice you take and whose you ignore, especially when after haveing had several you ask for more.

By the by there is a brass screen in most fuel pumps, and if you have the variety sans glass bowl, they have a hollow bolt holding the lower chamber cover on, you remove it to access the screen.

If you put it back in with out checking the passage through the bolt, you may still have a problem. Just saying.....

So when your little slice of heaven gets its corners fouled by what you consider to be unwanted material, perhaps you need to also take a chill pill. Your remarks regarding Don's replys are much more billious spewing than his comments.

And before I get accused of defending Don (who certainly doesn't need my support) I merely wish to point out your reaction seems a bit over the top. No room in your life for a bit of ribbing, and or long distance noogies????

First, Greg, if Don doesn't need your support then why are you going to bat for him? He was out of line and I was out of line right back at him...and I was being nice. His remarks were uncalled for, and he knows it, and I didn't see it as "ribbing or long distant noogies." He likes to push buttons and he pushed mine on the wrong day. His kind of "advice" was totally irrelevant to what I asked about. For some reason he likes to make people feel like they are inferior to him, and don't say he doesn't because I have seen him do it to others. Plain and simple, if he has nothing nice to say he needs to keep his comments to himself. Is his version of "chiming" being nothing more than facetious just to humor you guys? Well, whatever smokes his corn pipe. If he can't say something nice, then, as I said before, he needs to shut his pie hole. I don't come here looking for confrontation with anybody, but I will not be belittled by someone publically just to provide entertainment for others.

Now, getting back to your "advice"...I know the screen and bolt you are talking about. I was just going to go ahead and take the top of the pump off and get a better view of the inside of it to see just how much of that material may be inside it or should I not do that? I'm not sure exactly where the clog occured...could be in the fuel line, too. Either way I have to blow it out with a hose.

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He was out of line and I was out of line right back at him...and I was being nice. His remarks were uncalled for, and he knows it,

I dont know that my remarks were out of line. You asked for advice to find and fix a problem. The problem was found and advice was given. You did not like the very good advice you were given so you requested more input. I simply asked you what you would do?

His kind of "advice" was totally irrelevant to what I asked about.

You stated that you are not allowed to work on your car where you live. You stated that you had to tow the car. You stated that the outfit that did your tank repairs was at fault. I gave you advice on how to fix these problems. How was that irrelevant?

For some reason he likes to make people feel like they are inferior to him, and don't say he doesn't because I have seen him do it to others. Plain and simple, if he has nothing nice to say he needs to keep his comments to himself. Is his version of "chiming" being nothing more than facetious just to humor you guys? Well, whatever smokes his corn pipe. If he can't say something nice, then, as I said before, he needs to shut his pie hole. I don't come here looking for confrontation with anybody, but I will not be belittled by someone publically just to provide entertainment for others.

Now, getting back to your "advice"...I know the screen and bolt you are talking about. I was just going to go ahead and take the top of the pump off and get a better view of the inside of it to see just how much of that material may be inside it or should I not do that? I'm not sure exactly where the clog occured...could be in the fuel line, too. Either way I have to blow it out with a hose.

I am not name calling. I am not belittleing anyone. Given all the good advice on what to do with your problem I once again ask what are you going to do? Add more filters? Add an electric fuel pump? Or fix the problem correctly?

I could sugar coat my responses but I feel it is better to get right to the point. I suggest that if you want to continue this conversation to do so by PM's so as not to provide entertainment to the masses.

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I am not name calling. I am not belittleing anyone. Given all the good advice on what to do with your problem I once again ask what are you going to do? Add more filters? Add an electric fuel pump? Or fix the problem correctly?

I could sugar coat my responses but I feel it is better to get right to the point. I suggest that if you want to continue this conversation to do so by PM's so as not to provide entertainment to the masses.

Call it what you want, but it was total sarcasm on your part, and it's been that way for the past couple of years. Maybe some may find your digs and so-called humor funny and entertaining, but I see no more than trying to be an attention whore. One more time...if my posts bother you then go to someone else's. Maybe if you stop trying to belittle people so much you may actually have more than just a small handful of people on here who would think that you're a pretty cool person.

Anyway, I'm ready to move on.

Edited by 47heaven
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  • 2 years later...

I noticed the below post by Merle in 2012 when I was trouble shooting my fuel pump problem yesterday."There seems to be a trend in the modern "new" pumps that they don't secure the pin properly. I've heard many horror stories, and I have even had one work out. When the pin walks out the linkage falls apart and it stops pumping. The rebuild kits from Antique Auto Parts Cellar use a pin with retaining clips. Easy to rebuild and no problems since. Otherwise I'd suggest staking the pin good on any "new" pump, no matter where you purchase it."

 This pin "walking out and the linkage falls apart" is exactly what I found upon pump removal on my some 500 mi pump. Can you suggest a good pump source that has solved this problem.

Thanks in Advance

Don

Merle         

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It seems to me the best way to do gas tank rust problems would be to cut the top section off, sand blast, coat the bottom area with whatever they use then weld the top section back on. When my tank was cleaned it was not coated but the bottom still had surface rust. Never hear of people cutting the top off gas tanks so there must be a good reason for it other than cost. What would it cost to have a tank made?

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A custom made tank would run, and I am estimating a good 500-1000 dollar.  To help prevent runst inthe tank you might want to reserach the new Stabil prduct called Stabil 360.

When poured into the gas tnak is creates a vapor that will coat the upper and all the metal parts of the tank to help prevent rusting with the new ethinol gas.

 

A bottle runs about 20 dollars.  Go to the Stabil web page to read more about. I plan to use some this winter when my 39 desoto is dormant for the winter.

 

The reason why most gas tank repairs guys do not like to  torch the top of the tank is because of possible explosion becasue of the potential of the fumes even after the tank has been cleaned. I have heard that some repir guys fill the gas with water and then cur the top and then patch the ariea that is bad and weld the top bak into place.

 

As suggested I would try to get the old coating removed and then use the Stabil 360 product and also a coupel of filters.

 

Rich HArtung

Desoto1939@aol.com

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I noticed the below post by Merle in 2012 when I was trouble shooting my fuel pump problem yesterday."There seems to be a trend in the modern "new" pumps that they don't secure the pin properly. I've heard many horror stories, and I have even had one work out. When the pin walks out the linkage falls apart and it stops pumping. The rebuild kits from Antique Auto Parts Cellar use a pin with retaining clips. Easy to rebuild and no problems since. Otherwise I'd suggest staking the pin good on any "new" pump, no matter where you purchase it."

 This pin "walking out and the linkage falls apart" is exactly what I found upon pump removal on my some 500 mi pump. Can you suggest a good pump source that has solved this problem.

Thanks in Advance

Don

Merle         

 

I can suggest your read your own post where you quote Merle saying "The rebuild kits from Antique Auto Parts Cellar use a pin with retaining clips. Easy to rebuild and no problems since." :)

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I am always very skeptical when it comes to miracle products and automotive additives. This Stabil product may work as advertised but I do understand that manufactures of these products will say most anything to close a sale. 

 

I watched the advertising film clip for this product on there web page. As expected the clip starts out telling you how much you should love your old car and makes the statement that "you are already using fuel additives to protect your fuel system against the damaging effects of Ethanol".  I am not using any additives to protect my fuel system against the damaging effects of Ethanol so does this indicate that you must buy these extra additives for this new product to work? It goes on to say that this product with its vapor producing properties protects Zinc, Copper, and Aluminum but these are all metals that do not rust. It does say this product contains rust protection materials but I wonder why it does not specifically mention any metals that are prone to rust? Then the real kicker. It recommends you add a can of this twenty dollar stuff to your gas tank every time you fill up. 

 

The vapor in this product must come from evaporation. All liquids can evaporate at room temperature and normal air pressure. Evaporation happens when atoms or molecules escape from the liquid and turn into a vapor. How long does it take for the active ingredients in this product to completely evaporate and is the condensation from this evaporated ingredient what prevents the damaging effects of ethanol?    

 

To me that indicates there is no residual value to using this product. My take is I will not buy this stuff and save my extra twenty bucks every time I fill up the tank.

 

For those who elect to use this product lets compare notes next spring and see if your results are twenty bucks better than my results not using this or any other snake oil additive.  

 

From the MSDS sheet.

 

Chemical Name CAS MIN MAX

Petroleum Distillate 64742-47-8 0 95%

Butyl Cellosolve 111-76-2 0 4%

Antioxidant 60083-44-5 0 1%

 

 

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How effective is Stabil 360 when the gas cap is vented?  Will it last the winter, who knows?  Maybe you will be smelling Stabil fumes instead of gas fumes.

 

When the stabil mixes with the current gas in the tank it then creates a vapor that then rise up to coat all of the exposed metal parts that currently do not have any gas surrounding the ex[poserd metal. It then also mixes with the current fuel and help prevent corrosion inthe current fuel lines and other fuel components.  I am getting this inform ation directly from their webpage and also reading the packaging.  I am not advocating that this is the be all end all for our problems but might help when storing our cars for long periods of time. It will last upto 12 months when the car is parked.

 

Just trying to pass on information to help others when storing their cars.

 

Here is a link to the Stabuil 360 web site:   http://www.sta-bil360.com/how-it-works

Rich HArtung

Desoto1939@aol.com

Edited by desoto1939
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I had problems with my fuel tank years ago. Got it cleaned profesionally. When I inspected the cleaned and dry tank I saw there was a little rust inside due to the acid they used I think.

For killing rust I use a product that is called FERTAN. It transforms the rust into a closed "film" of irontannin. In the proces, the rust will also create a powder like residue that can be cleaned with water and is not toxic (oak tree bark has tannin inside. Fishermen used it to protect there nets from rotting).

I use it everytime I have a litted rust on a plate I want to paint or prevent rusting ferther.

I did put some Fertan in the tank, made sure it covered every corner. The product is water thin. After letting the rest out let it sit for 2 day's. Then I cleaned the tank for the powder residue by using some small stones inside and let then roll.Then I installed a plastic filter before the fuel tank and 2 spare ones in the car.

The first 3 tank fill up's I had to change the filter. Now the filter stays clean. When I inspected the tank after 2 years I did see only a black wall. No rust anymore.

My 2 cents.

 

edit: http://www.fertan.com/products/derusting-products/

I used the black bottle at "derusting products". Not the epoxy coating they have.

Edited by DutchEdwin
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