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Leaf spring rebuild.


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Hi Guy's;

In another thread the topic of rebuilding leaf springs was discussed briefly.

I talked with some friends who build off roaders and repair/modify all sorts of vehicles and they suggested I talk to Deaver Suspension in Santa Ana. They all had nothing but praise for the work this shop puts out.

I spoke with the shop foreman and got a quote of $250/pair to rebuild the springs on my 3/4 ton truck. They disassemble, clean and buff, re-arch to factory spec's, replace any bushings, install teflon pads and paint or prep for powder coat. This price is based on me removing the springs and taking them to their shop. Turnaround is 2-3 days. This sounds like a decent price to me but I would like your input.

I had not really figured on doing this but it probably isn't a bad idea. One of my buddies mentioned that he had noticed a marked improvement in ride quality on trucks that he had this service performed on. He attributed this to the installation of teflon pads.

Thanks, Jeff

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As my former boss used to tell me "You only live once". It's nice to fly First Class if it doesn't put a hitch in your git along. You've got my vote.

Q: What does he mean paint or prep for powder coat. This has me thinking the springs are assembled and then either painted (which he'll do) but if you want them powder coated you are on your own?

A: ?

Can you get him to use Por-15? (It's excellent, but pricy. Don't compromise o9n the finish if you are taking them to the $500 level) If they are not going to be Powder coated, I'm sure Eastman can recommend the right product.

Hank :)

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I got NEW spec built springs for 1 ton from Eaton Spring for $1200...I think you have a good deal, especially with the teflon!

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GGDad;

Yes that sounds about what I would expect. These guy's will make or adjust whatever you want. My friend has had them make springs for everything from rock crawlers to Baja 1000 racers to specialty equipment trailers.

Hank; I doubt I will powder coat.... but we will see. Honestly there is hardly any rust on the springs as it is. Nothing like what our friends to the east of us have to deal with. Besides with the amount of rain we've had this year...we will die of thirst before any rust can form :eek:

There is a product that is made by Mercury Marine that would probably work just fine on bare metal springs. Absolutely amazing stuff. It is an aerosol corrosion inhibitor that forms a pliable self healing barrier to rust and corrosion. I used it for years on my saltwater boats.

Jeff

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Wow, you guys have gone all out on your springs. I had a Blacksmith (friend of a friend) reset my rear springs and make me two complete new front springs for my truck for $250. I did not powder coat them, and I do get the odd rust mark seeping out from between the sleeves - but I've been told that a good coat of Inox should fix that. Well done to you both though for going to that effort!

Desotodav

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well, my one rear spring was about 3" shorter and 2" longer than the other....it was trashed...if I had my truck down that far....go all the way is my thought! My fronts are in good shape, but very rusty, they are open to anyone who is willing to pay shipping!

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Need to do the same for my fronts at least. I got a 2" diffference side to side and the truck looks funny from the front. 48D hooked me up with a nice used set that I plant to take across to the other side of the bay to a guy who rebuilds them.

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  • 8 months later...

anyone know where a guy could get the parts to replace the 2 "clamps" that hold the springs together (riveted on the one leaf and wrap up and over the others to keep them clinched together)? I'd figure there is a simple replacement bolt on option out there.

The caboose has one spring where they are gone (why the one side sits over 1" taller than the other) and I don't plan on spending the $ and money to replace the srpings on a trailer.

thanks!

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I took my springs apart, sanded them, removed #2 from the bottom, sprayed them with silicone and reinstalled them. Since I have never driven the truck prior to this exercize I do not know how much things changed.

I do know that the center of the leaves do not move and that the only significant movement is on the ends of the leaves. If one would put tape on the ends of each leaf, drive down the road for 10 miles at 60 MPH I would guess that only the bottom leaf moved. Now loaded and on 1950 farm roads then you have a very different set of circumstances. I wouldn't spend that kind of money on the springs. I would put it into the seats. JMHO

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I took my springs apart, sanded them, removed #2 from the bottom, sprayed them with silicone and reinstalled them. Since I have never driven the truck prior to this exercize I do not know how much things changed.

I do know that the center of the leaves do not move and that the only significant movement is on the ends of the leaves. If one would put tape on the ends of each leaf, drive down the road for 10 miles at 60 MPH I would guess that only the bottom leaf moved. Now loaded and on 1950 farm roads then you have a very different set of circumstances. I wouldn't spend that kind of money on the springs. I would put it into the seats. JMHO

Paul, this is for the trailer project....just trying to get the thing to sit level. With the box on it sits about 2" off level....which looks like crap!

If nothing else I'll get some 1/4" steel lasered here at work, bend som "U"'s drill some holes and shove a grade 5 keeper bolt thru the top to hold it down and weld it to the lower spring to keep it in place.

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ok with me..we going to get a malt right?

this would not be unlike the ride last Wednesday evening..I took the gang for a ride across the one mountain..into the valley and up the other side with no rear seats in the van...we stopped counting at 35 deer within a 5 mile run..had the seats out of my van for i brought a Morris engine and tranny combo back with me some 600 miles.

Edited by Tim Adams
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