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Progress on my 52 B-3-C


Jeff Balazs

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Hi guy's;

Well it (water distribution tube) is out...........and what a job!:eek: Glad to have that over with. Got the freeze plugs out too.

So what is the best way to flush the block out ? Anybody use any chemicals to flush this or is it a water only job?

Keep in mind that I am not planning on taking the engine out of the truck for now. All the indicators are that I can get it running pretty well as it is.

One thing I really need is a good frame and regulators for the seat. I have an original seat and back cushion but none of the hardware to install them. If anyone has this and is willing to part with it please contact me.

I see that Roberts sells some tailgate hinges......I am not sure if these are the correct type for a 52. Can anyone tell me if they are?

I need to do something about tires. This truck has a set of 4 original type 15" rims on it. Is there a modern tire.....preferably a radial... that fits these rims and works well with the truck? I would really like some input on this. I plan on using this truck as a daily driver and work truck.

Thanks for your input and have a great Holiday!

Jeff

post-8378-13585365653447_thumb.jpg

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Wow that was crusty. I cleaned my next projects engine with a pressure washer. Direct the water in every way you can think of until you stop getting nastyness out of it. As for tires yes you can get radials. Look for the 215 70/75 15. That should be close.

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I agree with Ed that a pressure washer is the way to go, but if you don't have one then try to adapt a thin tube, like a piece of brake line, onto the end of your garden hose. Then you can reach into the cavities and blow out the gunk.

I think I have a seat frame stashed in my storage shed, but it's pretty large for shipping. Where are you located?

And. I am running 235/75R-15's on my original 15" rims and they work well.

Merle

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Merle;

Ok so pressure washer, thin tube and water and keep going til I stop getting gunk out. I can do that!

The one thing I have not touched yet is the temp. sending unit. I suppose that should come out to aid in getting that area clean as well. There appears to be a small freeze type plug just inboard from the sending unit on the top of the head. Should this plug be removed? I am still getting familiar with these engines so I am uncertain how far to take this at this stage.

I am located in Irvine in southern California. I am happy to pay a fair price for the frame and for shipping. I have the truck at my shop in an industrial complex so all the shipping outfits come through here daily.

Thanks again for your help.

Jeff

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Parts house may have the thin tube you'll be looking for in the form of an auto trans funnel. Some screw onto the quart bottle of fluid and might, just might screw onto the end of a garden hose.

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Merle;

There appears to be a small freeze type plug just inboard from the sending unit on the top of the head. Should this plug be removed?

that "freeze plug" is actually used to determine TDC off of the #6 piston. with the plug removed, a firm wire is inserted, and the crank turned by hand. when the wire reaches its highest point, the piston is at TDC. shouldn't be any need to remove it to clean the water passages, as there aren't any associated with it.

wally

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Nope wally there is a freeze plus in the head too. Smaller than the block ones. And its right above the temperature gauge sender. Removing it can help spraying penetrating oil etc on the bulb and sometimes you can even give it a little push out.

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There appears to be a small freeze type plug just inboard from the sending unit on the top of the head. Should this plug be removed? Jeff

Yes it should be removed to assist in cleaning the water passages inside the head.

that "freeze plug" is actually used to determine TDC off of the #6 piston. with the plug removed, a firm wire is inserted, and the crank turned by hand. when the wire reaches its highest point, the piston is at TDC. shouldn't be any need to remove it to clean the water passages, as there aren't any associated with it.

wally

You have the freeze (actually Welsh plug) plug and the pipe plug confused. The Welsh plug just above the hole for the temperature probe opens to the water passages and the pipe plug (that I am pointing to in the picture below) gives access to the combustion chamber.

h1.jpg

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Guy's......you are awesome. That was exactly the type of info I need....and you even answered a question I was going to ask in the very near future about finding TDC.....all I can say is Wow!

I really feel like my project is going well. I know I was extremely fortunate to find one of these trucks in very decent shape.....but the help and know-how available here is of equal importance. Hopefully I will be able to help some folks with some aspect of their project in the future.

Jeff

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The one thing I have not touched yet is the temp. sending unit. I suppose that should come out to aid in getting that area clean as well.

Based on experience and that I believe the temperature sending unit is the single most difficult part to obtain, I'd take the approach "If it ain't broke, don't fix it". More than likely if messsed with, the bulb that contains the ether gas used in this capilary unit will twist off leaving you with a nationwide computer search for an item that I believe there may be 1 or 2 NOS units remaining the world. If you are lucky enough to find one it'll cost you near $200 to replace.

Don't even look at this part sideways,

Hank :)

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Hi Hank;

Happy New Year to you too. I tend to agree with you on this item. Especially since the inner fitting on mine seems pretty buggered up......hopefully it still works.......so that item is going to be put on the "lets look at it in the futeure list.

Thank you jpwuertz...... that is a good site. The temp sending unit repair sounds doable.......I wonder if anyone on this site has actually attempted it?

Thanks, Jeff

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Hank;

You are too funny! How'd you know that Ralphie is one of my hero's?

I have a Red Ryder single action carbine hanging in a place of honor out in my garage that my Dad gave me for Christmas one year. To show you the faith my Dad had in me......he waited until I was 45 years old to give it to me :eek:

Dad was as usual....................... quite correct in doing so.

How's this? I will only attempt it if absolutely necessary and someone else post's a You-tube video of a successful repair.

Jeff

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Here is a picture of the 23" 218/230ci engine showing the 1-3/16" diameter of the Cylinder head "Welch" plug and also showing the Timing Indicator tool inserted into the #6 cyl. 1/8" pipe plug testing hole.

Most all long block 25" engines and Straight Eights use a 1-3/8" cyl. head "welch" plug. AKA core or soft plug.

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I have and it works!

breakingbadimages.jpg

Keven I recognize you on the left, but who's your friend? :D

O.K. Jeff I guess you are over 45, so I've attached the "method" just in case you default to "If it's not Broke Fix it"

Hank :D

P.S. What they may not tell you is the OEM fitting into the block is cast iron and mine disintegrated on first twist. Stewart Warner makes a Brass Capilary Heat fitting that works perfectly. I don't know the part number.

Dodgeb4ya: Wow! Where did you ever get that Ignition Timing Motor Guage?

Temperature Guage.pdf

Edited by HanksB3B
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I bought it off Ebay about 5 years ago for about $30.00. happy to find it!

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totally cool!

Can you provide more detail? Manufacturer?

Thanks,

Hank :)

I will have to figure out where I put it and get you more info.

Bob

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totally cool!

Can you provide more detail? Manufacturer?

Thanks,

Hank :)

Hank,

Here are a couple more pics of the Timing Guage. It's really old and I don't have the instructions! It's got different tips for all different engines. There are 2 strobes. The guage has a arc glass tube too. I have never been able to find any info on this exact indicator.

It's a cool tool!

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