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Paint and pricing


White Spyder

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Took the Chrysler out yesterday to a local body shop that has a very good reputation for nice work, I just needed them to use the special camera they have to help me match the paint for my Fulton visor. The paint has faded quite a bit over the last 63 years. Out of curiosity I asked what it would cost just to re-paint the car in the original color. I was floored to hear 10-15K !!!! He said to remove all the trim and do proper blocking and sanding to make it look right took many hours and the cost of the paint alone would be close to a grand. No other body work included and it could go higher if there were old repairs or rust found.

For those of you who have re-painted your cars lately, what did you pay and what were the detail of the job? I.E. just a prep and re-spray, sanded down and painted, type of paint and how many coats.

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That doesn't surprise me at all. Maaco quoted me 5500.00 to prep and paint my 48 plymouth. A local body shop thats known for doing old cars on the side said they'd do it starting at 8500 and going up if they found issues. And these estimates were 4-5 years ago and prices only go up! Sure makes a gallon of rustoleum look better and better.

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"Labor" will get you every time, there is a lot of work involved to do it right, and the end result depends almost entirely on the preparation, and a lot of shops are really proud of that labor. That price for the paint is ridiculous and to me an obvious chiseling job. A gallon of correct 1960 "meadowvale green" (for my Falcon) is $113.00 from PPG or Dupont. "Modern" colors/paints will run in the $200.00 per gallon range (I was pondering 2010 "kiwi green" until I saw that price). Primer should only run in the $30.00 per gallon range.

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I removed or had all trim off, bumpers, grille etc.

I did all the rust repairs, did al the priming, filling blocking, priming, more blocking, glazing, then shot on 3 coats of enamel paint. This was a frist time for me, and it is not professional, but not bad by all means. Cost in total about $500. I could have had Maaco lay on the topcoat for another $1000, but tried it myself.

You could always take off all the trim, do a lot of the prep, but you will need to be able to shoot on primers, with a gun, and need the air from a compressor to back it up.

If your cars panels are in decent shape, it might save you a lot of money.

Or search around for a Guy who does it on the side from a home shop, or a trade school, but they might take forever to do it.

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It's definately not cheap. Eastwood and Summit racing both offer nice eurothane base/clear systems that are reasonably priced and proven to be quality paint. It's the bodywork and prep that costs you. I found a guy willing to work in my shop by the hour; rather than quote a fixed cost we just agreed on an hourly rate and I told him how many hours a week I can afford. I buy the supplies myself as he needs them. I let him use a corner of my shop to build an engine for his car so i got a little cut rate there, too. There's lots bodymen out there looking for side work who may not have their own setup and are willing to work with you. Just do the research and look at some of their previous work.

I got the body work as far as I could myself and brought him in last February. With him working about 4 hours a week it should be finished early this spring. I havent kept a running total of what the whole job costs but with taking it little bits at a time and helping with whatever I can; it's made it easy to manage financially. Plus I can keep a close eye on the progress. You just have to be willing to have your car down for an extended period and be patient. But it sure beats racking up a huge credit card bill.

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I had my coupe painted by Maaco in 2008. I took off the trim, grill, bumpers. They sanded, did a little bondo repair, primed it, shot it with a color coat and a separate clear coat. The bill was $3160. They did not take it down to metal, or paint the inside of door frames or in the trunk. That would have cost much more. While it was in the paint shop I buffed the stainless steel trim, then when I got the car back I put back the trim an bumpers.

The car looks good, but if you look close you can see where some spider-webbing of the old paint is coming through after 3 years. I guess you get what you pay for. I was only trying to make the car a presentable driver, not a show car.

Dave

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On the issue of paint, costs can run from $50.00 to $800.00 a gallon. When I had my car painted, I talked with automotive paint stores about prices, quality and brands of paint. After that a decision was made on what paint to use. I then provided the paint for he job to insure the shop was not going to overcharge for the paint and that I get what is wanted. Ball park estimates are the starting point for the job, but when it gets to signing a contract, it does not hurt to itemize what all is to be done.

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How many of you guys take your own bacon and eggs to the coffee shop and have them fry it up? Most shops don't mark the supplies up more than 10%, and don't forget the overhead they have, i would be willing to bet most would be floored by the cost. Labor to do the job right and be able to warranty it is not cheap, and most only use these types of jobs for fill in work as the collision work is the bread and butter that keeps them going. on another note most shops won't guarantee the paint if you supply the materials as they won't be able to go back to the manufacture for warranty on it as they did not purchase it from their supplier.

Edited by dezeldoc
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This is kind of a long response but shows what is possible if you shop around. It was not really cheap but certainly not expensive by today's standards.

A friend and I, mainly my friend, originally painted my car 30 years ago. It was a poor paint job then and never improved. We should have done more preparation and body repair so a couple of years ago I decided to repaint. I had a bodyman work on the car on the side as mentioned in a previous post. I believe that is the way to go if you can work something out.

I paid $5500.00 for this paint job. US and Canadian dollars are basically par. I took off all trim and reinstalled also. Work was done by a body man who works out of a shop on his parents' farm. He had the car for over a year before I got it back but I believe the wait was worth it. Pictures show what was done to the body. He also did quite a bit of minor body work that was needed. All glass was pulled before final primer/paint. He did all work except the final application of paint as he does not have a proper paint booth in his shop. That he farmed out to a professional shop he sometimes works with.

I have no skills with body work or painting, and no wish to learn them. I feel fortunate that he did this car for me. There were a few hiccups along the way but it all worked out well in the end. He had also painted my '38 Chrysler (see picture) previously for a similar price and that was why I wanted him to do my '48 Dodge D25.

Finished

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During the repaint

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1938 Chrysler

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Edited by RobertKB
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Took the Chrysler out yesterday to a local body shop that has a very good reputation for nice work, I just needed them to use the special camera they have to help me match the paint for my Fulton visor. The paint has faded quite a bit over the last 63 years. Out of curiosity I asked what it would cost just to re-paint the car in the original color. I was floored to hear 10-15K !!!! He said to remove all the trim and do proper blocking and sanding to make it look right took many hours and the cost of the paint alone would be close to a grand. No other body work included and it could go higher if there were old repairs or rust found.

For those of you who have re-painted your cars lately, what did you pay and what were the detail of the job? I.E. just a prep and re-spray, sanded down and painted, type of paint and how many coats.

It is very expensive to have a car painted, so I took several months and prepared my Hudson and then painted it. It was not an easy job and I would think very hard before I painted a car again. I scraped all the paint off with a razor blade and treated the surface rust on the roof a rust converter and then primed with epoxy primer and then again with regular primer. The car is a 20 footer with a few mistakes in it but I drive it, not show it so I'm fine with what it turned out to be. The total cost was around $400 for supplies, and countless hours of labor. It was a fun experience and actually I enjoyed doing it even though it was a tuff job. I will try and post some pics below. Richie

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Took the Chrysler out yesterday to a local body shop that has a very good reputation for nice work, I just needed them to use the special camera they have to help me match the paint for my Fulton visor. The paint has faded quite a bit over the last 63 years. Out of curiosity I asked what it would cost just to re-paint the car in the original color. I was floored to hear 10-15K !!!! He said to remove all the trim and do proper blocking and sanding to make it look right took many hours and the cost of the paint alone would be close to a grand. No other body work included and it could go higher if there were old repairs or rust found.

For those of you who have re-painted your cars lately, what did you pay and what were the detail of the job? I.E. just a prep and re-spray, sanded down and painted, type of paint and how many coats.

The finished paint job. Sorry about messing up the post, was going to put all pics in the same post but found out only 5 pics at a time. Richie.

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I have stripped two cars to bare metal including the trunk, under hood and interior. The only way the painter would consider painting the car was in bare metal. Some of the new paints will lift the old paint and he can not trust the old bondo repairs so in bare metal every flaw will show up. I had at least 100 hours per car just in removing all of the old paint plus time to blow the car apart so that the body work could be done before painting. Then after painting re assembling the body work, believe me it is an eye opener to anyone who doesn't know what it takes to turn out a really good paint job. For show quality it has to be color sanded and buffed with a glaze so the the surface is glass smooth, no orange peel and this adds even more time to the project.

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..And as an alternative,there's always this idea - now gaining some popularity, (faux patina).Hey, if already looking aged and has some character,you have a head start.;)

http://www.ehow.com/how_5650455_make-car-paint-look-aged.html

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those prices are a joke...if it was covered by insurance and such..they may get 12-1500 to paint a car..

No one....and I mean NO ONE is going to do a complete paint plus materials for 12-1500. Unless all he has to do is walk in the booth, shoot it, walk out, and hit the bake button. You live in a dream world otherwise.

And yes, I know what I am talking about. I am an A.S.E. Master Autobody Tech with 40 years on the floor.

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No one....and I mean NO ONE is going to do a complete paint plus materials for 12-1500. Unless all he has to do is walk in the booth, shoot it, walk out, and hit the bake button. You live in a dream world otherwise.

And yes, I know what I am talking about. I am an A.S.E. Master Autobody Tech with 40 years on the floor.

I not long back had a car that was done by insurance...and by reading my text as I wrote it, the price they were give for the overall was less than 1500.00...so based on that I made my report...

as for painting cars...I have never put over 500.00 in material on a paint job..and when you get one of your finished jobs entered among mega thousand dollar cars..take best of show trophy in a field of 400 cars, also best in class and garner an invite to the concurs de elegance...come talk to me..I have been know to paint cars..yes it all is in time spent in prep and detail....I am not bragging but I know what does go into a paint job and I know what the body shops pay the guys do all the grunt work about little above minimum wage..an experience body man may get a few more bucks an hour but his job is done quick if he is worth anything..the painter is not getting some 300.00 an hour...all the cost is greed to overhead and the man taking his entire family to the Bahamas on your job alone..so whatever is common in your area and folks are willing to pay that more power to them..I am just saying I have seen seen these high dollar jobs..and am glad it was not me paying the inflated bill...this sorta reminds me of AC work on the average for most cars..the cost will be twice the replacement cost of all components..and they are hedging the bet that they will have to eat it at least once in a come back so you pay for their error up front..and the list goes on with just about anything you will have to farm out to da 'man'

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When I was looking for a paint shop all the body shops I spoke to wouldn’t touch my car. They recommended a custom painter who like your quote wanted 15K for the paint job and my car was already stripped and primed. For 15K I could have saved a lot of trouble and purchased an already restored car with a decent paint job. I eventually after a year of looking found a guy who did a reasonable job for 4K. I did 95% of the body work but he did fix some stuff for me. Not perfect but very acceptable. My goal wasn’t a show car but a good driver for cruising.

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All I can say is shop around if you really want to get the whole car painted. I wasn’t looking for perfection.

Chet…

Edited by Chester Brzostowski
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I was fortunate to have a brother-in-law ( a truck driver) who was very skilled at auto body work. He had learned it from his father, and had access to his father's shop, although his father had passed away a few years ago. He agreed to paint my P15. The paint/supplies alone cost just a bit over $1000. His labor bill to me was just over $3000, and he did a fantastic job. I pitched in to help with the sanding, etc. wherever I could. It was amazing how he could detect slight dings and dents that I had a hard time seeing even after he pointed them out. And there were a lot of them. More than I ever imagined before the job began. So the advice about preparation being extremely important is spot on. His labor charge was dirt cheap in my opinion. Initially, I had considered trying my hand at the job, but now I'm glad I didn't. I know I would have been disappointed in the final outcome. It's best to leave the bodywork/painting to a professional. I'll stick with the wrenches and electrical stuff.:D

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I agree with everything thats been said here, however, if paint is say $1,000 and only 25% of the cost then dead labor is $3,000 is then $4,000 (dead cost) then times 1.50 Factor for Overhead and Profit - thus $4,000 x 1.50 = $6,000.

Anyone charging $7,000, $8,000, or $9,000, or $10,000 would be a damn rip off artist for just a paint job.

Unless of course they think their **** doesn't stink (then of course all would be forgiven).

I have been quoted ridiculous prices for paint jobs in my day also and after some reflection, I realized thats exactly what they were - ridiculous quotes.

If a Car needed significant filler work done or welding etc. maybe $9,000 or $10,000 would be fair. In this economy the Buyer/Customer is KING right now not the Body Shops. Shop around there are still Good Shops that price fairly out there.:o

Tom

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What so often starts as just a paint job ends up with the owner wanting all new rubber for the doors and windows installed along with new glass. The two cars I stripped were blown apart, front clip, trunk, doors and all glass out. Now they want the firewall painted and all unused holes filled so out comes the engine. You have to draw a line in the sand when you go to the paint shop. He and you need to agree to what you expect from this paint job and are you willing to do any of the removing and replacing the clip,doors, trunk etc. How much rust and dents do you think will be reveled when the paint is removed and how much can you live with. It takes a lot of work to have a good show quality paint job, I am talking about a number 3 car which is what most of the local cruise and car shows get with the "Do Not Touch Unless You Are Nude" stickers in their windows. When you look up the definition of the car classes with a number 1 just leaving the restoration shop after a nuts and bolts restoration. a Number two and older restoration and a Number 3 an amateur restoration. So often the owner has expectations of what he wants and the Paint shop shoots a high number to protect themselves from all of the add on items.

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Took the Chrysler out yesterday to a local body shop that has a very good reputation for nice work, I just needed them to use the special camera they have to help me match the paint for my Fulton visor. The paint has faded quite a bit over the last 63 years. Out of curiosity I asked what it would cost just to re-paint the car in the original color. I was floored to hear 10-15K !!!! He said to remove all the trim and do proper blocking and sanding to make it look right took many hours and the cost of the paint alone would be close to a grand. No other body work included and it could go higher if there were old repairs or rust found.

For those of you who have re-painted your cars lately, what did you pay and what were the detail of the job? I.E. just a prep and re-spray, sanded down and painted, type of paint and how many coats.

That is about right....

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since i wanted a show car with show gaps, my paint job was roughly 20k.

it took roughly 1 body man about 1 month of working on it everyday 8 hours a day. they also cut the trunk and made the overhang perfectly even. The doors also got cut and the cowl was made shorter so the doors fit better, and had 3/8 inch show gaps. The car was also skim coated in bondo so it appeared straight as an arrow and was blocked many times, and body filled the whole car, there is a ton of material on my car which im not happy about, b.c. of shrinking, but they waited a month for shrinkage to take place then they painted the car. looks good to me, but not woth 20k, i got carried away.

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Check and see if you have a school near by that teaches auto body and paint work. You can get a real deal and they are happy to work on an old car.

Jon, this may be true in some locales, but up here, some of the schools, just teach how to do collision repair and replace on modern cars. this I found out a few years back, so if anyone is in an area, where they welcome old cars, great, you may be lucky....

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