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Gas leak at tank


wayfarerstranger

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I have this old 50 MEADOWBROOK leaking around the fitting that`s attached to the gas tank where the line screws in , i have fixed these before with JB WELD and the gas tank repair strips , can`t remember which did the superior job as it has been a while , anyone done this repair recently or have any thoughts ?

Edited by wayfarerstranger
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someone must have stressed this a bit on tightening the fitting...or loosening it whatever the case may have been...you may have to drop the tank, superclean the exterior, apply a bit of flux and reflow the solder...else as a quick fix...you can empty the tank..by that no standing fuel in the vicinity..and super clean a affix a JB Weld patch..me thinks that even the super tough "southern" edition of duct tape is insufficient.

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I had three in hole leaks in the bottom of my tank, used Quiksteel on all three. Masaged it in real good (with gas in the tank) in the spring and haven't had an issue since. Bought a spare tube to keep in the car just in case.

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  • 4 years later...

When I was replacing the rear shocks, I noticed the front left bottom corner of my fuel tank looked like it was wet.(1st photo)

 

Thinking I might have a leak, I used a souring pad with vinegar to clean the area. At that time there was 1/2 a tank of fuel in the car.

 

Today  filled the tank and did notice a droplet of gas where the line to the fuel pump attaches to the tank. (Remaining photos)

 

The fitting was wet but that rest of that area felt dry to the touch but the coloring suggests otherwise.

 

Any thoughts on how to proceed would be appreciated. Thank you.

 

Tony

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The first thing I would try is to tighten the fitting a little . If that doesn't work , I would try some sealer like Permatex on the mating surfaces . When the parts were new , no sealer was required . But the parts are not new anymore . You will need to drain the tank before using sealer . 

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It looks like the area around and above the fitting is wet. Gasoline won't flow up hill (it could be wicked up if there were a layer of mud or something on the tank.) I would look at the seam and the top of the tank above the fitting. The fitting may be wet because it is acting as a place for the gas to collect.

When I bought my car the tank had a couple of pin hole leaks in the top rear of the tank. it took me awhile to locate them because the tank would not leak unless it was full. When it was full a small amount of gas would drip from the drain plug. I finally realized that the drain plug was not leaking, the gas from the leak on top of the tank was flowing down and collecting at the drain plug.

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Instead of a ferrule, the 50 uses a special tubing nut and the end is not flared but rounded. This

can be done by using a double flaring tool but only completing the first step which makes kind of a bulb

on the end of the line.  

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Instead of a ferrule, the 50 uses a special tubing nut and the end is not flared but rounded. This

can be done by using a double flaring tool but only completing the first step which makes kind of a bulb

on the end of the line.  

I found a brake line fitting (in the carded-fastener section of Pep Boys) with the right shape and it has been OK for many years on my '52.  Unfortunately I don't know the manufacturer or part number.

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 That fitting  ( maybe called a flare nut )  is found on the single master cylinder in the mid 60s and is a perfect replacement. I do not know the part number either but it should not be difficult to find a used one.... at least you don't have to get underneath.

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  • 4 months later...

Thanks for the suggestions. I also got help from suntennis and several folks on the Facebook Plymouth Owners Club page.

 

Here's an update on my fuel leak issue.

 

As it turns out the original flared end of my fuel line was not uniform and it just wasn't visible to me from looking at it. So matter what I tried like Teflon tape or O-rings, that leak wouldn't stop. It was when I went under the car from in front of the rear wheel that I noticed that maybe the original flare didn't look right and then the bright idea of pulling out a mirror and looking at it from all angles hit me.

 

So I got an 8" line that was flared at both ends, got tube cutter at Harbor Freight and gas line with clamps. I cut a 3" piece from that new line, cut off the old flared tip and then reconnected it all using the rubber gas hose with clamps. Test drove the Plymouth and no leaking or weeping of fuel. Attached are some photos.

 

Again, thanks for all the help.

 

Tony

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Young Ed - That's a great suggestion on a union fitting. I found a You Tube video that laid it out on a brake line application. Definitely a live and learn for next time. I don't have a flaring tool but if I can get my hands on one that will be the follow up. Thanks. -Tony

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