Desert Rat Posted October 31, 2022 Report Share Posted October 31, 2022 Patience is key.. I ended up soaking it for a few days in Free. Since it had about 3/8" of thread exposed, I ground down two nuts really thin and jammed them together on what was sticking out of the block. Spun it out no problem. ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
desoto1939 Posted November 2, 2022 Report Share Posted November 2, 2022 Yes everyone is correct that on the New Reproduction Gates water pumps for the flat head six engines they made the body thicker and if you have an original three stud setup on your motor then this pump will not be a direct replacement pump. These newer pumps have the sealed bearing which is an improvement over the old graphite washer style that eventually does leak. When looking head on at the body of the newer pump the lower left mounting hole is inthe same location but the original WP's where only approx 1/2 thick at this point so that the mounting stud would protrude through the body and you could continue to use the nut to secure the wp to the front of the engine block. When the new replacements were made they increased the body thickness and provide you with a bolt that will screw into the front of the engine block. But if you still have the original three studs then you will have to remove the stud and yese there isa potential to beak the stud. Several years ago, back in 2016, my WP started to leak. I had a replacement pump in my stock, but to my surprise it was the newer replacement style and I have the original style on my 39 Desoto. This is when I discovered the change in the body of the WP. But I was able to find two rebuild WP's that had the sealed bearing and had the 1/2 body thickness and this solved my problem. So beware when ordering a new replacement WP. Ask the seller which pump it is that you are purchasing. I have seen many MoPar vendors that tell me the new pumps are eact replacement pumps and then I tell the real facts about how the older pumps are different. They replay with the statement of just pullthe stud and use the bolt. Yes can be done but when a stud has been in an engine and is also in the ari of the water jacket there is a very good chance that it will snap off. When I was at Hershey I stopped by the Art Gould waterpump and fuel pump repair. They told me that if there is enough thickness in the older style wp Body that they can bore out the main bearing hle to accept and install the sealed bearing. They gave me a price around $100 and up to do they rebuild. So if you consider the cost of a repoped wp and then the cost to remove the studs and if there are any issues than that is not a bad price. So during your travels when you see a WP for our cars examine the body to see if it is th eolder style or the new reproduced style. If you have the older style pump on your can and the price is a good price then pick it up as a spare. These older pumps were tossed into the scrap heap and sold as scrap metal. The first picture shows the original style at at 12 o-clock near the outlet hole you will see the original thin body.. on the second picture you will see the extra thickness of the body near the return outlet and the new bolt. Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Desert Rat Posted November 8, 2022 Report Share Posted November 8, 2022 I discovered a helpful trick when re-installing. There was two bolts mounting the radiator to the frame. I thought I would give it a shot and sure enough they were slotted. Just take them loose and give yourself another 3/8" or so. .A world of difference when the clearance is nothing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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