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#61 Rodney Bullock

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Posted 02 September 2011 - 02:45 PM

This new pump I have has a theaded hole on top for the heater hose elbow

#62 Jim Saraceno

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Posted 03 September 2011 - 04:42 AM

If I remember correctly, someone in the past mentioned that the newer pumps have one area where the bolt passes through, which is thicker than the original pump therefore needs a longer bolt.

#63 Rodney Bullock

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Posted 03 September 2011 - 04:54 AM

All has been hashed out. I now understand the difference between the new and old. Spacer was a plug, long bolt is for the passenger side of the pump.I put the pump together last night and will reassemble today. The cdar still is not drivable because I don't have the generator. The new pump is slightly larger that could be good.

#64 Don Coatney

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Posted 03 September 2011 - 08:52 AM

Don on your pictures your pump is like the one I just got in the mail. Do you have that theaded hole?


It has been so long ago that I dont remember.

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#65 Young Ed

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Posted 04 September 2011 - 11:04 AM

Rodney the new pump you got is a fits all. I have one on my 48. One bolt hole is deeper and there is a plug for a heater hose connection that newer cars apparently use.
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#66 Rodney Bullock

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Posted 05 September 2011 - 05:08 PM

Ok, so now we know for sure. It is possible to replace the water pump and the fan as a unit. I did it last night in the dark and buttoned it up this morning. It seems that the fan can be installed on the water pump and slid into place in front of the radiator. By putting the driver's side bolt in first and holding the heater hose elbow you can then switch to the other side and install the long bolt. The hardest bolt to install is the middle bolt. This requires a little work but it's not impossible. The tools needed ......9/16 speed wrench. Time......20 min. Now if I can get that darn Gnerator back.:)

#67 Don Coatney

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Posted 06 September 2011 - 04:00 PM

Ok, so now we know for sure. It is possible to replace the water pump and the fan as a unit. I did it last night in the dark and buttoned it up this morning. It seems that the fan can be installed on the water pump and slid into place in front of the radiator. By putting the driver's side bolt in first and holding the heater hose elbow you can then switch to the other side and install the long bolt. The hardest bolt to install is the middle bolt. This requires a little work but it's not impossible. The tools needed ......9/16 speed wrench. Time......20 min. Now if I can get that darn Gnerator back.:)


Good job my friend. It appears you are trainable:D

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#68 Rodney Bullock

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Posted 09 September 2011 - 12:06 PM

Ok so I take the pump back off ans the 4 little bolts on the backing plate of the water pump are loose. Where in gods name do I get that gasket from? It must have been leaking from there as I had the gasket on good. The big round hole in the block dosen't any water flow thru there

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#69 TodFitch

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Posted 09 September 2011 - 12:28 PM

Ok so I take the pump back off ans the 4 little bolts on the backing plate of the water pump are loose. Where in gods name do I get that gasket from? It must have been leaking from there as I had the gasket on good. The big round hole in the block dosen't any water flow thru there


I think the big round hole was there for manufacturing to get the sand from the casting core out.

Having a 1933 Plymouth with a totally different water pump housing and inlet to the block your question about getting a cover plate gasket is easy: Make it.

You can get gasket paper at any decent auto supply store. If you have calipers or micrometer, measure the thickness of your existing gasket so you know the thickness to get. But its not critical, so you could also just go by guessing thickness. Outside of gasket is easy, just lay the pump on the gasket paper and trace. Good sharp scissors should work for that odd shape. A set of inexpensive hole punches from Harbor Freight will make the bolt holes.... Overall, its not too hard to make a paper gasket. I have more difficulty with cork or the high temperature stuff needed for the manifold. And I'd leave making a head gasket to the pros. But a simple paper gasket is easy to do.

The rear axle seal gaskets, the large gasket for the center carrier on my differential, my valve cover gaskets and my water pump gaskets are all made by me. The valve cover gaskets I could have purchased but it is so quick and easy to pull a sheet of gasket stock off the shelf and do it that it is hardly worth ordering one from the store.

http://www.harborfre...h-set-3838.html

Edited by TodFitch, 09 September 2011 - 12:31 PM.

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#70 Joe Flanagan

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Posted 09 September 2011 - 12:29 PM

I was going to ask you if you got those on snugly with some sealant but I figured you knew what you were doing. You can make a gasket for the backing plate. Just set it down on some gasket material and trace it. As Young Ed said, that pump is a fits-all model, so you shouldn't have any problem with water flow after you seal everything up.

#71 Rusty O'Toole

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Posted 10 September 2011 - 08:50 AM

Lots of good info on this thread. Would like to add a couple of thoughts.

When working on a car with tight clearance between fan and rad I like to slide a piece of cardboard in between to protect the rad.

Making gaskets is easy, you cut them out by laying the paper on the pump and tapping around the edge with a ball peen hammer. There is a special tool for cutting the bolt holes but a hole punch from the stationary store works fine. If you prefer you can cut out the gasket with scissors after marking the paper with the hammer method.

You can buy gasket material if you are rich, the rest of us use old cereal boxes. Works just as well and costs nothing.

#72 Vintage Metal

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Posted 17 October 2011 - 01:10 PM

Lots of great info in this thread, any part numbers for a water pump to fit a 218?
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