Young Ed Posted September 10, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 10, 2014 Did you try a toilet plunger? I haven't tried anything as I was honestly about to junk it. There are some pretty significant creases in that dent which is why I thought of chopping. I will try some of these though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
48Dodger Posted September 10, 2014 Report Share Posted September 10, 2014 I would use a stud welder to pull the dents. It would take some time, but would work. Don't know if you would buy one Ed, but you might have a buddy who has one and you didn't ask...lol Otherwise, you could split the seams and work both halves in an open fashion and reseal it like the factory. Or, cut the bottom off with a cut-off wheel, straighten it then tig weld it back together......cutting the top would make it tough to swing the hammer effectively. 48D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Young Ed Posted September 10, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 10, 2014 I would use a stud welder to pull the dents. It would take some time, but would work. Don't know if you would buy one Ed, but you might have a buddy who has one and you didn't ask...lol Otherwise, you could split the seams and work both halves in an open fashion and reseal it like the factory. Or, cut the bottom off with a cut-off wheel, straighten it then tig weld it back together......cutting the top would make it tough to swing the hammer effectively. 48D I would love to have one of those but I don't and I can't think of anyone I know that has one either. I did mention this same project to Dad and he said basically the same thing. Braze a few tabs on the bottom and pull them and then remove them. I should note I'm not going for perfection here just function. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ggdad1951 Posted September 10, 2014 Report Share Posted September 10, 2014 I would love to have one of those but I don't and I can't think of anyone I know that has one either. I did mention this same project to Dad and he said basically the same thing. Braze a few tabs on the bottom and pull them and then remove them. I should note I'm not going for perfection here just function. bah, just dump some acetylene int here, seal it up and light it off! Problem solved! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Coatney Posted September 10, 2014 Report Share Posted September 10, 2014 bah, just dump some acetylene int here, seal it up and light it off! Problem solved! How much is some? Thimble full, pinch, dollop, tea spoon, table spoon, cup, pint, pound, ETC. Need more information??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave72dt Posted September 10, 2014 Report Share Posted September 10, 2014 I've got one if you want to come down and try it out. If you're any good at welding sheet metal, you can spot scraps of sheet metal on and pull on them with a vise grip while lightly tapping the edges of the dents with a body hammer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DJ194950 Posted September 11, 2014 Report Share Posted September 11, 2014 (edited) If you have a slide hammer, find a nut or preferably 2that fit the threads of the hammer., tack weld the nuts together while threaded on the shaft (wet rags covering the rest of threads/shaft), then weld to the end of the nuts to a piece of left of sheet metal to the end of nuts sticking straight out. Size of the sheet metal depends on the size/shape of dent being worked, Then put several tack welds in the center of dent to start and the use the slide hammer to pull dent outward. You probably will need to take a cut off wheel to the tacks weld to move the slide hammer around some to work out a larger bent. Kind of the same idea as the stud welder just $250+ cheaper. Slower, BUT. Always clean out the gas tank First, and/or put exhaust of a lawn mower or similar into the tank to remove any oxygen. DJ Edited September 11, 2014 by DJ194950 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TodFitch Posted September 11, 2014 Report Share Posted September 11, 2014 . . . and/or put exhaust of a lawn mower or similar into the tank to remove any oxygen. The Smart & Final grocery store near me sells dry ice: A little of that in the tank would soon fill it with enough CO2 to keep the old gas from igniting very easily. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Young Ed Posted September 11, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 11, 2014 The Smart & Final grocery store near me sells dry ice: A little of that in the tank would soon fill it with enough CO2 to keep the old gas from igniting very easily. How long does gas/vapor linger in there? This tank hasn't seen a drop of gas in a decade or more. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Coatney Posted September 11, 2014 Report Share Posted September 11, 2014 Give it the nose test. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TodFitch Posted September 11, 2014 Report Share Posted September 11, 2014 How long does gas/vapor linger in there? This tank hasn't seen a drop of gas in a decade or more. Don't know. I've heard that it can be years but the source for that was suspect. Only fuel tank I have personally worked on was right off a car and it was off because it was leaking. In that case I cleaned it the best I could, took precautions against having any mixture left inside near an ignitable level, and then used a high wattage flameless soldering iron to seal the leaks. Everything worked out but I don't know if it was because (1) I was lucky, (2) because I'd taken sufficient precautions, or (3) because it would not have exploded anyway. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Coatney Posted September 11, 2014 Report Share Posted September 11, 2014 I have never talked to anyone who had one explode. Just heard bits and pieces. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plymouthy Adams Posted September 11, 2014 Report Share Posted September 11, 2014 I have seen a few distorted tanks..heard of a few less than pleasant experiences..lots of soiled undies I am thinking..I try to stick with multiple flushings with water..while full of water burn off any vapor or fuel floating at the neck of the opening...then process to repair..and even then I do my best to only use the very heavy iron I have here..even as kids we solder pennies on go cart gas tanks..excellent patch material.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ggdad1951 Posted September 11, 2014 Report Share Posted September 11, 2014 Give it the nose test. I like the match test better! I can see Ed now just like Wile E. Coyote! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plymouthy Adams Posted September 11, 2014 Report Share Posted September 11, 2014 Wile E. went about things in a very animalistic manner for sure...ACME did good at delivering working products to the ole boy for sure..wish we could get that service today.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Young Ed Posted September 11, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 11, 2014 Our neighbor was working on his 58 ford tank and exploded the vapor inside. While he wasn't hurt it sure scared the you know what out of him and ruined his tank. It was blown up like a balloon. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Merle Coggins Posted September 11, 2014 Report Share Posted September 11, 2014 Our neighbor was working on his 58 ford tank and exploded the vapor inside. While he wasn't hurt it sure scared the you know what out of him and ruined his tank. It was blown up like a balloon. That would get your dents out... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave72dt Posted September 12, 2014 Report Share Posted September 12, 2014 Have a radiator shop boil it out for you. Any varnish inside will be gone and you can work on it with anything you want afterwards. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Young Ed Posted October 26, 2014 Author Report Share Posted October 26, 2014 A frame made its way home today!!! Brought the 48 to the cabin and towed this home. Here it is reunited with a cab in its new parking spot where it will most likely sit until spring. Lastly a little excitement on the way home. On the freeway we hit what I believe was a throw pillow that fell(got thrown?) off someones vehicle. We saw the big cloud of feathers and when we got home found this Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Young Ed Posted April 9, 2015 Author Report Share Posted April 9, 2015 Spring is finally here! Got a good find on craigslist jeep rear end with a 3.55 ratio. Did some measuring and its 1 inch less than the stock one. So today I dug out the wheel I had and might use(if I can find more) to see how it would fit. Looks like it will be great on both the front and the back. Clearance to the frame and clearance to the fender 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Young Ed Posted April 10, 2015 Author Report Share Posted April 10, 2015 Picked this up tonight. 1994 cherokee 3.55 axle. Without the drums I measure 7/8 under the width of the stock rear. The drums should make it even closer 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Young Ed Posted April 18, 2015 Author Report Share Posted April 18, 2015 Out with the old axle. After chasing the threads everything came right off. The hardest part was getting the U bolts out. They were stuck good. Looks like my hope to avoid buying shackles is dashed. At least I still have hope the hanger on this side is still good. The other side appears to have the shackle worn right into the hanger so that side is probably doomed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Young Ed Posted April 18, 2015 Author Report Share Posted April 18, 2015 It doesn't really show in the picture but the bolts/sleeves through the U shaped clamps on the springs are pretty crusty. Are they just a bolt with a sleeve that matches the width of the spring? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MartinsB3B Posted April 19, 2015 Report Share Posted April 19, 2015 I believe they're just a bolt Like you said. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Young Ed Posted May 3, 2015 Author Report Share Posted May 3, 2015 At least I still have hope the hanger on this side is still good. The other side appears to have the shackle worn right into the hanger so that side is probably doomed. And that hope is gone. Yesterday I took them apart and they are both quite worn. The bushing that came out of the spring slips into the housing with no resistance. So does anyone have an alternative other than $85 each new hangers? As this isn't a restoration I'm not opposed to fitting something else. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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