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Engine casting #'s can be a number or two off from the parts books.

 

The Mopar car and truck  parts books show part # 952066 for a 218  with the 3.3.75" stroke crankshaft. two #'s off.

 

Both my Federal Mogul bearing books show a part # 952068 as the 218 crankshaft casting # which is correct.

 

 

I'm not certain the quality control in 1950 times were near what would be considered 'good' now.

a '6' (with some bad sand in the casting) could have originally started off as an '8'.

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I have learned over the years sometimes  (many times ) casting numbers don't match the books :confused:

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Does every flathead six have a hole drilled through it into cylinder number 6 or just the one I have? An old guy I met (who has a couple of Model A Fords) said that some older Fords also have a hole drilled in the head. He said it had to do with somehow using the one piston as a handy built-in air compressor especially if the engine were in a military vehicle. So now I have two explanations; it's either to determine TDC or it's an air compressor. Any other theories out there or is the TDC explanation the definitive answer?

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glenn777, on 01 Dec 2015 - 08:56 AM, said:

Does every flathead six have a hole drilled through it into cylinder number 6 or just the one I have? An old guy I met (who has a couple of Model A Fords) said that some older Fords also have a hole drilled in the head. He said it had to do with somehow using the one piston as a handy built-in air compressor especially if the engine were in a military vehicle. So now I have two explanations; it's either to determine TDC or it's an air compressor. Any other theories out there or is the TDC explanation the definitive answer?

stories abound and use altered for many things over the years but if you want the truth...you can find the very plug in question fully explained in your service manual with pictures that will assist your visual imagery in the task being performed..

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I should have added it will be in the ignition section...at least, it is in the Plymouth service manual...often some things in the Plymouth book is left out of many Dodge manuals...figure the truck manual will have it as the most part the truck owner will maintain his vehicle.  But as for as some details in some of the higher line of cars..I feel some things are not covered basically because the average higher line car owner at that time had his vehicle service over that of the common Plymouth owner...may be wrong in that assumption, but that is my rationale

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This is the tool and in the hole...

post-302-0-28607500-1448997634_thumb.jpg

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Don,

I'm ready to buy more tools that I really don't need...

I want to see that list when you have it done.

Hope it doesn't take too long :eek:

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So I did good- I have most every tool that I could ever need!

But.... what 1 tool did you come up with...?

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Uhhh....

No I don't have one of those and hopefully will not need one :lol:

I do have a MoPar MTSC Tech lighter though.

post-302-0-08731200-1449005655_thumb.jpg

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Ok, I have to ask Don... Why do you keep a rectal thermometer in your tool box?

I don't know why Merle. I must have stuck it in there several years ago and forgot about it. It does appear that I cleaned it before sticking it in my......tool box.

 

I also found 3 Eisenhower's 1971, 1972, 1974 that I tucked away several years back. 

 

post-16-0-82113200-1449007693_thumb.jpg

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Thanks to everyone on this thread for providing pictures and references. I found the C-435 tool on pages 219 and 220 of my B-3 Shop Manual. As far as I can tell, the tool's main purpose is to get #6 to TDC. But it must do more than that. Does anyone have a clue as to how to use this tool and what it measures? What are the two knobs for that stick out from the sides? And what is the tiny gauge for with the 0-15 scale? Is it measuring degrees, thousandths of an inch or what? Isn't there another way of adjusting ignition timing without such a fancy tool (not to mention that finding one on craigslist or ebay is probably impossible)? This is interesting from a historical perspective but if I really need this tool to set ignition timing, I'm in trouble!

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You can use a small diameter wood dowel. Keep it vertical in the hole. Turn the engine back and forth by hand and make a pencil mark on the dowel when you think you are at TDC. Check it a few times and mark the dowel in red for TDC. Then check the timing marks on the pulley and pointer and remark or highlight TDC if necessary. Now you have a proven mark to use your timing light.

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That tool was used by professionals who worked on flatheads all day long for a living...for the hobbyist rebuilding an engine, it's function can be approximated with the wood dowel, non-insulated copper wire, a metal coat hanger, etc.  That shop manual tells you why TDC is needed for ignition timing; it is a simple procedure that requires care in accomplishing...the numbers on the large gauge face are an indication to the professional where the piston is along its stroke and speeds up the TDC location procedure.  Look at the tool more closely and you'll notice what appears to be spark plug threads on one end and "coil and spark tester" on the gauge face with the horizontal numbered scale...this would suggest a second function of this tool to fine tune the distributor after TDC is located.  This can be approximated with the static timing found in the Tech Tips section (road timing if'n ya want an adventure:cool:

Edited by JBNeal
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I have about a 200 acre corn field right behind the house (not my field) and it would be perfect for road timing - nice and flat - but I think I'll try the wooden dowel method first! Thanks to everyone who has contributed to this thread so far. I hope the ideas and tips help a lot of other flathead mechanics too.

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