Jump to content

routing brake and gas lines


Recommended Posts

If you current have the brake and gass lines still onthe truck or car get down on your knees and look along the frame rails. You will ussually find these on the driver side of the vehicle.

The lines are held against the frame with special clips. You should be able to get the clips at a NAPA store.

You will also notice that one of lines has a spring or covering over the line. If I remember correctly this will be the gas line. The outer covering helps protect the line from getting cut or knicked from road debey and theis cuts down on the possibility of getting a leaking line.

You can get lines at your local NAPA store. I would not use stainless steel since they are harder to put the double flare into the ends. There are more flexible lines that are available on Ebay and the cmpany makes up the lines you you but you still need to bend them.

If you buy not bend lines then you need the following tools.

Double Flaring tool

Tube cutter

Tube Bender and buy a good one

Connectores

Also get new front and rear brake hoses

You can route the lines to your liking but just take your time and do not rush the job. You want the brakes to work properly and also not have gas leaks.

Rich Hartung

Desoto1939@aol.com

Hope this helps.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Got all the parts. My brake lines were pretty much rotted away as was the gas line. I just need to know WHERE to put them up by the front end. Rear end lines were fine enough to use as templates.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

As I recall the fuel line runs along the left frame rail and crossed over along the rear edge of the front cross member and there's a short jumper hose to connect to the fuel pump. The front brake lines also run up the left side, one to the left front and the other crosses over along the front edge of the front cross member and to the right front brake. Sorry, no pics of the routing.

Merle

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If there is enough light when I get home, I will try for some photos. My engine is out of the truck, which makes it all a little easier to get to. While TRYING to replace both front brake hoses, I manage to twist the ends off of both steel lines, so the point where they pass through the frame will be a little vague.

Bob

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

If there is enough light when I get home, I will try for some photos. My engine is out of the truck, which makes it all a little easier to get to. While TRYING to replace both front brake hoses, I manage to twist the ends off of both steel lines, so the point where they pass through the frame will be a little vague.

Bob

thanks, the more pictures the better!

Thanks to the rest who have already posted pictures! A TON of help!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

just a side note: I dunno why Dodge had the forethought to put the fuel tank in between the frame rails, but routed the fuel line outside of the frame. The fuel line on my '48 was flattened, presumably by a mud clod, in the left front wheel well. The fuel line on my '49 looked to have been chafed by an oversized or mud-balled tire. As an "upgrade", I'm routing the fuel line next to the brake lines to clean up the outside frame rail.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

just a side note: I dunno why Dodge had the forethought to put the fuel tank in between the frame rails, but routed the fuel line outside of the frame. The fuel line on my '48 was flattened, presumably by a mud clod, in the left front wheel well. The fuel line on my '49 looked to have been chafed by an oversized or mud-balled tire. As an "upgrade", I'm routing the fuel line next to the brake lines to clean up the outside frame rail.

good point! I think I'll route mine inside as well. I've got enough right now "different" that won't hurt me anyworse, but make it safer/better!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

When I was restoring my 1950 Fargo. I copied all the original lines in steel. I then shipped the copies to a company called Fine Lines in Ohio. They used my originals to set up a program in their CNC bender. They then shipped me the full set in Stainless Steel. The lines fit pretty good, just a little tweaking here and there. You would need to call them to make sure they still have the patterns.

http://finelinesinc.com

Link to comment
Share on other sites

This shows how the fuel and front brake lines are on mine. Each front wheel has a dedicated line all the way back to the junction block, which is fed directly from the master.

do you have an image by chance from the other side looking at the drivers side?

Also if anyone has an image of the distribution block since one line is going to have to loop back 180° to go forward for the other front brake? My block is a big rectangle with the input from the MC up front and 3 other ports (2 in the back and one other up front next to the input).

thanks!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

do you have an image by chance from the other side looking at the drivers side?

Also if anyone has an image of the distribution block since one line is going to have to loop back 180° to go forward for the other front brake? My block is a big rectangle with the input from the MC up front and 3 other ports (2 in the back and one other up front next to the input).

thanks!

This isn't a very good pic, but shows the block in the background. Side port is to the master. front goes to the front right, top to the front left, and rear to the rear (naturally).

post-3764-13585360697254_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

With both of the trucks I have the brake and fuel lines run inside the frame rails. This is the way they were built. The fuel line runs from the fuel tank forward inside the left rail and crosses the front crossmember at the motor mount bolts.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

 

ggdad1951 said:
Anyone have some good pictures or discriptions for where to route these? Running them this week and next weekend. Thanks!

I took some photos last night of the '51 parts truck. Its brake lines were (mostly) intact as shown:

large.sm100_0187.jpg.2f3536dfb5b8b3f9d2d0885e5595d88b.jpg

 

large.sm100_0188.jpg.dad229ca2ba2f8915ad6cc4e69005836.jpg

 

large.sm100_0189.jpg.0368aedf36f709dccfa03c82248dd302.jpg

 

large.sm100_0190.jpg.5378b3fb42ccf4685fb7e290569348a5.jpg

 

large.sm100_0193.jpg.aacddd64e45185b6f6529a7577a89e52.jpg

Edited by JBNeal
revised pictures
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 4 years later...

Good Pics!  ;)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thank You too!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 5 years later...

I looked at the '48, '49, '51 and '53, and verified in the parts manual, that there is no rubber hose on the oil pressure gauge line like there is on the flathead cars.  The oil pressure line from the gauge through that firewall grommet is a tricky li'l bugger to duplicate since the original hugs the firewall contour, but it doesn't have to be that exact shape for functionality...I think all that does is get the upper line outta the way for engine removal.  With the oil pressure port behind the oil filler pipe instead of the closest port to the firewall, I reckon this gives extra clearance for starter removal / installation.

large.sm20210525_191627.jpg.5d629e4b8c9ba19cee4e6950b554935c.jpg     large.sm20210525_191721.jpg.bf0f795f04e6fd55c3b9919fe33d7754.jpg

 

large.sm20210525_191847.jpg.0a7da5aad30a65b0d8a1b8fdf467da03.jpg     large.sm20210525_191907.jpg.cfb8fd73c0842246b5aff09df2f2a0f4.jpg

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Here is a photo of the factory fuel line on a B1B, just gets tucked into the front cross member then over to the fuel pump. The brake line follows but fuel is closer to cross member then brake line outside.

If any measurements needed let me know.

 

 

0526211531.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

3 hours ago, JBNeal said:

I looked at the '48, '49, '51 and '53, and verified in the parts manual, that there is no rubber hose on the oil pressure gauge line like there is on the flathead cars.  The oil pressure line from the gauge through that firewall grommet is a tricky li'l bugger to duplicate since the original hugs the firewall contour, but it doesn't have to be that exact shape for functionality...I think all that does is get the upper line outta the way for engine removal.  With the oil pressure port behind the oil filler pipe instead of the closest port to the firewall, I reckon this gives extra clearance for starter removal / installation.

large.sm20210525_191627.jpg.5d629e4b8c9ba19cee4e6950b554935c.jpg     large.sm20210525_191721.jpg.bf0f795f04e6fd55c3b9919fe33d7754.jpg

 

large.sm20210525_191847.jpg.0a7da5aad30a65b0d8a1b8fdf467da03.jpg     large.sm20210525_191907.jpg.cfb8fd73c0842246b5aff09df2f2a0f4.jpg

 

 

Interesting pictures.  I had always thought the oil line fitting went to the port behind the starter.  I knew the trucks didn't have the rubber hoses in the oil line between the gauge and the block but I just like the idea of having the isolation feature the rubber hoses provides.

 

Now I've got to decide if I should re-route the line from the hose to the block on my truck!

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

3 hours ago, Los_Control said:

Wonders if he the only dumb arse that saves line until replaced ... need the rear brake lines?   :D

 

NOTHING, I REPEAT, NOTHING

goes to the trash until the Fat Lady Sings (Project is Complete)!

 

Pictures are nice, BUT NOT a Template!!

 

Learned that the hard way with my first Austin Mini Cooper resto.  ? ?

Edited by billrigsby
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.

Terms of Use