littlemo Posted April 26, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 26, 2012 (edited) Well, today was ( in my boat ) a pretty productive day. I managed to finally get the original oil pan and pick-up tube switched out to my "new" rear sump oil pan and "new" pick-up tube. Whew, I'm glad that's done, My "chubby" little butt doesn't work well under that engine hanging from my "cherry-picker"!! I also didn't remember I had to remove those two oil pump bolts to unscrew that silly tube. Anyway that's done! I mounted one of my tires on the passanger side, and after filling my new steering sector with Corns-head grease, proceeded to crank the wheel as far as she'd go to the left. Looks like I'll have plenty of room between the hose bracket and the inside of this tire and wheel combo after installing the keeper maybe an inch clearance at least. ( this is the tire I want to run on the front ) Cass, alias littlemo... Edited May 30, 2012 by littlemo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
littlemo Posted April 27, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 27, 2012 (edited) Today it's been raining here in SEMO so decided to get some more time in on "the Rose". Put the 318/904 combo back into the car, pushed, pulled, wiggled, and giggled and finally got it where I wanted it to sit. Mocked up one of my new frame motor mounts and "ruined" two others (dang chop-saw, don't know left from right). Also found out that (sorry falconvan, but I already chopped off one end) I'm not going to be able to use the trans Mt. that a fellow forum member gave me. The ( pic shows 6 inch, but I believe mine is 4 inch} depth in the center of the mount is just too much and raises the end brackets too high on my frame rails. Guess I'll order one with a two inch drop from Speedway. Cass, alias littlemo...ADD: Pro/Con; With the "new" rear sump oil pan I have all kinds of tie rod clearance. Please, no negative comments about the oil/grease on the engine, as soon as I get this "puppy" roughed in, I'm taking it for a "BATH"!!! lol.... Edited April 27, 2012 by littlemo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
falconvan Posted April 28, 2012 Report Share Posted April 28, 2012 Hey, man; what about all that oil and grease on the engine?????? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
littlemo Posted April 28, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 28, 2012 Somehow I was afraid that pic would elicit some really "abusive" remarks !!! Cass, alias littlemo... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
falconvan Posted April 29, 2012 Report Share Posted April 29, 2012 Oh, I guess we'll let you slide. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
littlemo Posted April 29, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 29, 2012 Since I'm such a "frugal" little guy, I decided to play around with this transmission crossmember before rushing out and buying a new one. Knowing I had to drop the mounting point on the frame a total of two inches, I used some two in. scrap in ordere to determine and mark out the correct amount of metal in each side arm that needed to be removed. A little "chop-sawing" and "tack-welding" later and my new "drop-out" appears. Since I have two sets of mounting brakets, I'll use one pair on the "drop-out" and one on each end of the frame extensions; bolt them together, and a new transmission crossmember with the correct "drop" is formed. Sure hopes this works out as well in reality as it did in my "mind-build" !!! Cass, alias littlemo... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
littlemo Posted May 30, 2012 Author Report Share Posted May 30, 2012 Even though, I felt I had plenty of clearance between the tires I want to run on the front and the brake line brackets, I couldn't help giving careful consideration to what others on the forum had recommended. So, electing to be more safe than sorry, I decided to relocate them (front brake line brackets) to the rear of my "new" shock mounts! Cass, alias littlemo.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
littlemo Posted May 30, 2012 Author Report Share Posted May 30, 2012 Now that most of the work converting my front brakes from drum to disc is completed, it's time to continue with mocking up my new motor mounts cass, alias littlemo... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daliant. Posted May 30, 2012 Report Share Posted May 30, 2012 I feel your pain, I just finished making motor mounts on my 46 w/318 swap. Do a mock up engine install with everything attached (distributor, water pump, pulleys, exhaust manifolds, etc..) so you dont put the engine where something isn't going to fit. Check, dubble check and then re check everything before you fully weld the mounts in so you dont have to cut them out because of lack of clearance somewhere. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
littlemo Posted May 31, 2012 Author Report Share Posted May 31, 2012 (edited) You're right Daliant, it's a pain trying to get everything to fit just right; seems no matter which way you wiggle this thing, something just don't want to fit !! Cass, alias littlemo... Edited May 31, 2012 by littlemo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
falconvan Posted June 3, 2012 Report Share Posted June 3, 2012 That's what sawzalls are for, Cass! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
littlemo Posted June 30, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 30, 2012 Using my "sawzall" that falconvan recommended, I trimmed up that shifting lever and shortened the shifting rod leaving enough of the splined section for possible future use ( still want to use the original column shift to control the A-904 trans if possible ) In addition, I finished installing the front steel brake lines and "tacked" in the frame part of the new motor mounts. Next moves are to re-install the rearend, rebuild the rear drum brakes, and get that 318 mounted back in the engine compartment so I can finish installing the trans-mount. Someday, I'm going to hear this "puppy" run !!! Cass, alias littlemo... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
falconvan Posted August 20, 2012 Report Share Posted August 20, 2012 How's it coming, Cass? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
littlemo Posted August 20, 2012 Author Report Share Posted August 20, 2012 The "new" rearend has been reinstalled and all the new brake lines run ( used premades so some will have to be "cleaned up", ie shortened, when we bleed them). I had to "drop back ten and punt" when it came to the trans crossmember. Even though I had taken two inches drop out of the crossmember falconvan had given me, in order to place the engine properly so the drivers side exhaust manifolod cleared the steering sector, the ends were still positioned too high on the frame. Soooo, I broke down, spent some coins,bought some metal, and fabbed a whole new crossmember. It will bolt to the frame, and can be removed if needed. Gues the goals for this Fall/winter will be to rewire the P-15. I'm thinking premade like "painless" etc..( Comments appreciatted !! ) and getting the metal work done to the floor pans. Yeh, I know I'm going at this project backwards, but at age 67, and working by myself, I have to "work-up" to some of these activities !!! lol.. Cass, alias littlemo... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
falconvan Posted August 20, 2012 Report Share Posted August 20, 2012 Cool; how about a few pictures? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fstfish66 Posted August 21, 2012 Report Share Posted August 21, 2012 your doing fine,,, im 53 work rotating 12 hour shifts,,its hard to be in the garage all the time these days,,,never thought ide feel like not being in the garage Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
littlemo Posted August 29, 2012 Author Report Share Posted August 29, 2012 Although, I still haven't gotten that engine down for her "steam-cleaning", I finally feel like I have the required clearances I need around the steering column, the front crossmember, and the fuel pump and oil filter canister. I even reinstalled a spare radiator mounting frame and think by relocating the radiator to the front side of it, I will have the needed spacing as well ??? Cass, alias littlemo... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrwrstory Posted August 29, 2012 Report Share Posted August 29, 2012 (edited) Cool!!!!!!!!!! Brings back some memories,......aaahhhh of bloody knuckles and redo's. Still pretty proud of the results. You're doin good. Keep it up and keep sharin the fun with pics. Edited August 29, 2012 by mrwrstory oops on spilling Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
falconvan Posted August 29, 2012 Report Share Posted August 29, 2012 Great job, Cass! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
littlemo Posted August 29, 2012 Author Report Share Posted August 29, 2012 Thanks for the support guys; I need all I can get !! lol.. Did find out that my drive shaft is too long and will need to be shortened. I think Ill let the "pro's" at our local NAPA Machine Shop in Cape handle that "little" job . Cass, alias littlemo.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wayfarer Posted August 31, 2012 Report Share Posted August 31, 2012 Gues the goals for this Fall/winter will be to rewire the P-15. I'm thinking premade like "painless" etc..( Comments appreciatted !! ) ... I haven't used it myself, but have heard good reports on 'Rebel' wire. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrwrstory Posted August 31, 2012 Report Share Posted August 31, 2012 What I found, for what it's worth, is that the cheaper packages, even from the name vendors, have the wires permanently terminated at the fuse panel. I decided, and with advice from others, that a panel which allows termination, at the panel, is more forgiving when you muddle through the decision process of where to run and group wires. And when you change your mind about a route, it means fewer splices. I'm glad I spent the extra $ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plymouthy Adams Posted August 31, 2012 Report Share Posted August 31, 2012 I bought a project that came with a Painless wiring harness. I chose not to use the harness based on certain components I would be installing in the car..I cannot in good faith make any recommendations here for its install as the instruction that I have with the kit are missing a number of pages 1,2,6,7,8,10.11.12.13.14, and if there are pages after #17 they would be missing also..be this the act of the PO seperating pages not deemed necessary for his build I do not know..but I would prior to seperating myself from money for a kit request possible access to their instructions to see if my chosen components will be compatible with their wiring..Some Mopar is covered in the booklet which was basic alternator and iginiton wiring..base components of the other are directly GM related and biased in the suggested use of theose components.. oveall, for my application it was very lacking for the most part...I guess if you retain stock steering and or use the GM (Ididit) coulmns, you would be well served with their kit as it seems to evolve around these components...(based only on my incomplete booklet).. if you dare to be differnt and hold true to some basic build concept of not giving up what you would like because a certain product is not addressing your build..then these kits are just a box or wires..adapting a donor harness is not a hard process... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plymouthy Adams Posted August 31, 2012 Report Share Posted August 31, 2012 What I found, for what it's worth, is that the cheaper packages, even from the name vendors, have the wires permanently terminated at the fuse panel. I decided, and with advice from others, that a panel which allows termination, at the panel, is more forgiving when you muddle through the decision process of where to run and group wires. And when you change your mind about a route, it means fewer splices. I'm glad I spent the extra $ -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- my most recent build incorporate a donor harness that makes seperation and remote location of components contrary to original application very easy as it is merely an alteration of the wire length for the most part by proper splcing tecniques. The entire fuse box of multiple relays and approx 24 protected circuits was all plug and play with approximately 12 quick connect plugs on the back of the fuse box...it is really hard to not like this concept..allows you to mount the box and easily route the wires in a fluid manner to point of your build as needed..these old cars have lots of places you can hide things for sure.. __________________ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
littlemo Posted August 31, 2012 Author Report Share Posted August 31, 2012 (edited) Anyone who has previously used this "biscuit style" motor-mount set up know what the required torque for the mounting bolt that runs through the rubber biscuit should be ??? Cass, alias littlemo PS. Thanks guys for the info on the "wiring Harness'". My heads "in the shade" tonight, and I almost forgot to say thanks !! Add: Now I'm not sure there is a torque value for these mounts; maybe just use good locking nuts and "snug" down firmly ??? (Hmmm, not sure what that really means-maybe, "make-em-tight" !!) Edited September 3, 2012 by littlemo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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