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318/5.2 L Mopar Fuel-Inj. manifold swap ??


littlemo

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You may have noticed in the previous posts, the picture of my new shock/shock mount "mock-up" had the mounts backing plate still attached to the shock mount outside the frame. After taking a close look at the size of the frame openings through which the backing plates would have to be inserted ( small and smaller ), I spent a sleepless night planning my installation. No real big problem I figured, I'd just grind a 1/4-20 nut at about a 15 degree angle, attach a threaded rod, and just insert the plate through the top opening, thread in the shock mount bolts, and unscrew the threaded rod. "Duck Soup" !! NOT !!:confused: This game plan probably would have been a snap for some, but for a little fat Irishman with stubby, fat arthritic fingers, nothing really went as planned. The angle to be ground on the nut was a trial and error process. Now in High School Math Class, this worked well.:D Look at the math problem , try some "off-the-wall" answer, and if the teacher didn't give it a big red check , it worked! Needless to say, the angle was wrong, the placement of the nut tacked to the back of the backing plate, and the bends in the threaded rod were, of course, all wrong too. By the time I was able to get the mount bolts threaded into the backing plate, I was unable to "simply" unthread the rod and it had to be "wiggled" until it snapped loose. Oh well, the mount is installed on the riders side; only one more to go. Those shock mounts of falconvans are looking better all along !!! :) lol, Cass, alias Littlemo...

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Edited by littlemo
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Well, it's a new day, so I'm trying to take what I "learned" yesterday to make todays install of the drivers side shock relocation mount with backing plate a little easier. This time, I had a little better idea of the correct placement and angle for the threaded rod I'm using to properly place my backing plate inside the Plymouths boxed frame. The second thing I did different was, after drilling the two bolt holes and getting the bottom bolt snug, I used a large drift punch to center the top backing plate nut in the top hole, making it much easier to line up and start the top bolt. Having both mounts and shocks installed makes me breath a little better!!:D

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Don C., yep there's one there, but for some reason it's not as big as the top one? On my 48, the top opening allowed me a better access then the lower. I want you to know, fat little fingers don't hold things very well in such a confined space! lol, Cass alias Littlemo: Add: Maybe it's just my "petite" 300 lbs. that wont let my body twist, bend, contort, et al. to use that bottom opening !!!

Edited by littlemo
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For all my friends who were concerned about the roll pins in my MC extension rod, I did in fact spot weld the ends of the roll pins and around the ends of the jounts. I feel much more confident the rod will stay together as designed.:)

Looks secure to me. Hope it brakes and does not break:cool:

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Don C; Well, if it does break, I'll probably hit something other then a "Fan" !!:eek: Add: And what I'm "full of", won't be distributed evenly either !!! PS: notice anything "WRONG" with the last pic I posted before DC's hand ??? ( Hint, color of residual valve !!)

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Yeah, and I believe that's a 10 pounder where a 2 pounder should be!!! That kind of mistake, if not caught, could really ruin your day, and put a "STOP" to all your plans !!! lol, Cass alias Littlemo ...:D

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  • 3 weeks later...

Today after a little confusion (mostly my fault) I finally got around to continuing my change-over to front disc breaks. The king pins reinstall went smooth as toast, and after some careful measurements and following the directions I received with my disc brake conversion kit, rotor install went as smooth as well. :rolleyes: The moral of this story; "stick to the script and read and follow directions carefully" !!!;) Cass, alias littlemo... PS. Thanks Charlie !!

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falconvan; Bought my kit from Charlie Akers ; olddaddy@rustyhope.com . He's a memeber of the forum and is also listed in the section on suppliers and services; but you can e-mail him at the above listing. He's a great guy, and always willing to help in whatever way he can. I highly recommend his services.. :) Cass, alias littlemo...

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  • 3 weeks later...

I was wanting to trial-fit the 318/A904 into the 48 before the fall hunting season got me distracted, but had to get the steering box from my "donor" car installed first. I had ordered a new pair of rubber insulators earlier and this was a perfect time to put them in as well. I had put the "old" box back into the donor car in order to move it to the backyard, and found it a little difficult to do by myself ( support, line up bolts etc..). Since I didn't want to ruin my new insulaters, I decided to use my engine hoist and a short length of chain to assist me this time. Worked like a charm!! Now to nudge the new engine and trans into position and start fabricating my motor mounts and crossmember for the trans. :)

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falconvan; Started "nudging" the 318 into the 48 today and wanted to hook-up that crossmember with the built in motor mounts that you gave me just to see what I'd be dealing with. :D As you can see, "we seem to have a problem here captain!" lol..:rolleyes: I actually didn't think it would work without a lot of customizing and was afraid it would interfere with the tie rods as well. Hey, it was a great idea if it would've worked. Thanks a bunch anyway. :)

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While "playing" at the trial fit, I noticed that besides the steering box/shaft clearance issue, I might have a problem with being able to use my original shifting lever as well. I had wanted to fab a new linkage and use my original column mounted shifting lever with the 904 trans. Anyone with experience with this kind of engine swap have info re. this problem ?? :confused:

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Edited by littlemo
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