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littlemo

318/5.2 L Mopar Fuel-Inj. manifold swap ??

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I've been following the 318 engine swap threads for many months. Since I have a 48 Ply P-15 with a good body but "shot" power train, I have been "chomping at the bit" to put a 318 into the car. My objective is a rebuild which looks original on the outside and interior, but with an updated power train.

When a guy in the neighborhood offered to sell me an engine out of his wrecked 2001-02 Ram 1500 pickup I jumped at the chance as the price was very reasonable. I had heard the engine run and knew it ran out strong. I also knew it was Fuel-injected but he assured me that the installation could be kept simple by simply picking up an older 2 or 4 barreled carb manifold.

Well, this is where it gets frustrating. I have been unable to find a "cross reference" as to which year or years a non FI mopar manifold would interchange with the factory FI manifold on the 318/5.2 L engine

Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.

Cass....Alias, Littlemo ................ :confused:

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Problem is on the the Fuel Injected motors the bolts go straight down and the older ones go in at an angle. they do make a manifold to fit it though. here is one.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/MOPAR-DOGE-318-340-360-MAGNUM-V8-INTAKE-MANIFOLD-HEADS-/380288343329?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item588af39d21

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I bought the manifold from ebay. It fits well. I'm trying to use the serpentine belt system, but won't know until I get the motor in the car. The weather hasn't been cooperating here, in getting my car moved to the basement garage where the motor is. Maybe by the end of the year I can get it in the car. Got a bunch of vacation coming up.

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pop it in an let the good times roll...will be a bit of work..nota P15 but the P22 wagon..I am running full serpentine with my rig..but V6 and Dakota clip..slight bit of difference in your route...engine will need to move rearward..the v6 required a substantial amount of inner fender and radiator support changes, hood latch support mod etc etc due to radiator going center of the support opening but no firewall massage....(AC condensor necessitated the support bracket mod) I would think you are going to need to recess the firewall..may interfere with original radio and will most likely cause a mod to the cowl vent mechanism..

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I've been a "Good-Boy" this year, look what Santa left for the "Rose" ! This should help her breath better.

PS. Thanks "dezeldoc" & "GaryPrice" !!!

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Edited by littlemo

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The winter has been cruel. My "keep it simple" project has become complicated and confusing!! It seems that besides the new intake manifold, carb and linkage, there are several other engine considerations to take into account. such as, possible "reverse coolant flow", new distributor from an older LA mopar 318, etc. etc. etc... In addition, it seems the trans is NOt an A518 but instead a 46RE (electric shift) ?? Without a control module can this trans be "manually" shifted like I used to do in my 65 Sport Fury??? Don't know ??? Maybe I need to do what someone suggested earlier; just go on and install the whole thing as it is with the ECM included??? Sure had my heart set on using that new intake. Well, it's going to take this old man some intense study and thinking. Since the weather is so cold, not much going to be done until spring anyway. At that time I'll just go ahead with the disc brake conversion, new master cylinder install and rearend swap before continueing with the engine /trans install... Pondering, pondering, Cass, alias Littlemo...

Edited by littlemo

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If you need anything for it (as in earlier parts) let me know i have quite few parts and complete motors. I will talk to my trans guy and pick his brain for ya!

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I'm considering swapping out the 48's original rearend for a 96 Ranger rearend with disc brakes. Will I have an issue using my original 15 inch wheels???:confused: Thanks, Cass alias Littlemo ...

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I'm considering swapping out the 48's original rearend for a 96 Ranger rearend with disc brakes. Will I have an issue using my original 15 inch wheels???:confused: Thanks, Cass alias Littlemo ...

I have a 95 Ranger rearend, drum brakes, I will use on one of cars.

This rearend is not as wide as the Plymouth. With 87 or so 15"

Ranger wheels, it may fit ok.

Your Ranger rearend with disc brakes, may be a different width than my

Ranger rearend though.

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Thanks Mr. Horne, I will definitely take my tape measure with me when I go to scope it out !!! Cass, alias Littlemo ...:)

ADD.. The question is "mute" since the guy sold the rearend before I got there, so still looking for one that will work and will be there when I get there with the money !! LOL, Cass ...

Edited by littlemo

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Whew, things have sure changed over the last thirty years or so; it seems that the mopar parts I need for my 48 build are more scarce then "hens teeth" around this area. I finally had to cross the mighty Mississippi and locate a B body rearend out of ( I was told) a 66 plymouth wagon; another source said 83 Chrysler 5th Ave.?? I hope the gearing will work out for my 48 Ply as a daily driver. ( sorry the first pic being repeated in the next post, I'm not real good at this! How do you "delete" and "replace" pics ??)

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Edited by littlemo

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Thanks to Charlie Akers guidance the disc brake conversion has gone "smooth as toast"! The only problem I ran into was a tolerence problem with the new spacers, but an e-mail to charlie and new ones shortly arrived.

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Bringing the MC situation up to new specs to handle the front disc and rear drum brakes was as simple as following recommendations in several forum threads and buying a new MC. The new brake lines will be the next challange. The roll pins are to be left in place and spot welds added if needed.

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Forgot to add that thanks to a certain "Forum Gentleman", I will be adding my own shock relocation shortly to accompany my new front Disc Brakes !!! The tie-rod ends were ok, but new King-Pins can't hurt !! ( How about some advice on "backing plates" D.C ...)

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Edited by littlemo

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( How about some advice on "backing plates" D.C ...)

With basic lazyness (remember lazyness pays off right now, hard work pays off in the future), the hot summer, and other obligations I have made no forward progress on my shock relocation project. I have one backing plate done but I have not yet completed the other. Here are some fresh pictures.

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Bringing the MC situation up to new specs to handle the front disc and rear drum brakes was as simple as following recommendations in several forum threads and buying a new MC. The new brake lines will be the next challange. The roll pins are to be left in place and spot welds added if needed.

In addition to the drift pins on the extended rod I think welding would be advisable. Should a pin fail and fall out stopping power would be lost. I say this because I had a drift pin fail and fall out in the carburetor on my lawn mower. This pin made it to the top of the piston as pictured below. What is the bore size of your dual master cylinder?

MVC-001F.jpg

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