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Engine Removal


aero3113

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Well I decided to start my winter project early and get a head start before the cold weather starts (it was 90 today :eek:). I only spent about 2 and a 1/2 hours today on the car and got a good jump. I removed the drive shaft,trans, all engine mounts and radiator. I was shocked at how easy the trans can be removed. It turns out I have a friend at work that used to own a engine shop and still keeps in touch with the guy he sold it to. I am going to have them go over the engine once I have it out.

Here are some pics

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Edited by aero3113
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You might want to save that gasket that is stuck to your bellhousing. Installing the transmission without it will allow leaks from the holes the sliders the gears travel on.

Hopefully you will keep this thread goig to the end and not start one that says throwout bearing removal.....

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You might want to save that gasket that is stuck to your bellhousing. Installing the transmission without it will allow leaks from the holes the sliders the gears travel on.

Hopefully you will keep this thread goig to the end and not start one that says throwout bearing removal.....

I am planning on keeping the gasket, can they be found new? Yes, this thread will go to the end. I do find it funny though when people get all twisted when they read something related to another post in its own thread.

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Hi Aero, did not know you were going for the whole rebuild. I know you had some trouble with a bearing, but what prompted the engine to be pulled for an overhaul.........Fred

Hey Fred,

When I replaced the bearings it did cure my oil pressure problem but I am not 100% happy. I replaced them when I did so I can get through the summer and go to some shows. I know that there was some scoring on the crank and when I first got the car I always wanted to pull the engine but did not have the room to do it. Now that I have the room, access to a engine hoist and friends willing to help me out with the rebuild I figured now's a good time.

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I don't believe the gaskets are commercially available as a per each, and one did not come in the rebuild gasket kit I bought when I did my 230 engine. That looks like it in good shape. Maybe you could do a full size scan and put it on a pdf sheet that could be added to the downloadable items on the main page.

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I don't believe the gaskets are commercially available as a per each, and one did not come in the rebuild gasket kit I bought when I did my 230 engine. That looks like it in good shape. Maybe you could do a full size scan and put it on a pdf sheet that could be added to the downloadable items on the main page.

That's a good idea Greg, I will scan and post when I get a chance.

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I spent a little more time on the removal process this morning and added some more pieces to the pile. The engine is now ready to come out. Hopefully I will be able to pull it this week once I get the hoist over to my house. I ground down a hook from a snap-on slide hammer for my water dis. tube removal. It works great, I will post pics of it when I remove it.

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Edited by aero3113
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I started the process of de-greasing the trans. There is a hole in the front of the trans that I sealed a few years ago because it was seeping oil, I removed the sealant to reseal it. I remember there was a post a while back talking about this issue, someone even sealed a dime in it. Is it normal for this hole to seep oil?

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Edited by aero3113
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Got out of work a little early today and got the engine hoist to my house. Hooked the chains up to the head bolts and had the engine out in about 15 minutes. As you can see from the pictures, the hood,fenders,cross bar,heater box,oil filter,battery and manifolds were installed. As long as you have the engine at the right angle it is no problem. If the bottom pulley was off it would have made it even quicker (it was hitting the cross bar, a little more of an angle would have been good also). I also took the starter and bell housing off once it was out.

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Edited by aero3113
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Great pictures! Thanks for posting!

Thanks Don

I was getting antsy and walked down to the garage, I got to do what I have been wanting to do for a long time but have been hesitant. I have read a lot of stories about people breaking their manifold studs when trying to remove them. I just wanted to see If I would be able to budge them with a wrench,if not I was going to use an air gun tomorrow (don't want to wake up the neighbors). Well, I was able to turn all of them with my wrench,some were a little too loose. Guess I got lucky :D. When I pull them off I will use an air gun on the bolts holding the manifolds together, hope that goes as well.

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If you have it available use lots of heat on the manifold! I can almost guarante without it you will break off the bolts holding the two pieces together. If you're lucky they break above the surface of the intake and you can then cut a screwdriver slot in it and use heat. If you are unlucky you get to drill them out.

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You can tell by the color of the firewall the car was originally

grey, before being changed to blue.

Yea, when I cleaned up the engine compartment the first time I tried to match the grey,it came out a little lighter (you can see it in the last pic with the engine removed). I was thinking of leaving the fire wall as it is,just clean it up a little. What do you think?

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I took the bell housing into work today to clean it in the parts cleaner. You can still see the original markings on it. When I got home from work I removed the clutch and flywheel. The clutch pads are worn and there is a BAD groove in the plate, anyone know a good shop that can rebuild it? The manifolds came off with no issues but I still have to separate the two. Anyone know what the two holes that are plugged in the last pic used for?

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Edited by aero3113
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