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Success and you would never beleive what my problem was?


JIPJOBXX

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After asking so many question on my ignition problem and I thank everyone here for there suggestion I believe I fix the problem.

Who would have thought that the Vacuum line running to carburetor was grounding out the distributor!!!!!!!!!!! I had it up and running without the vacuum advance not being hooked up and noticed that it really ran fairly well. So then I reattached the vacuum line and it starter to run ruff and misfiring at various speeds. So I figured that something was ground out the points and sure enough where the arm attaches to the bellow in the vacuum advance attachment was loose and that caused the arm to goes to the distributor plate to ground out. I put some electrical tape on that arm that advances the distributor and reinstalled the vacuum advance unit. Started up the car problem gone!!!!!!!!!!!!! So here you go a new type of problem for old mo-pars from 42 to 48. The control arm after a while becomes loose on the bellow and that causes it to either bottom out on the distributor plate or the points spring sits so close to that control arm that it will ground out the points. To fix this I will haft to buy a new old stock distributor vacuum or supper glue/two ton cement the arm back in on the diaphragm. Its in place but they just put it together with rivet and that's the main problem loose rivet. Jon:D:D:D

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Glad you fixed your problem.

I suggest you follow the link below and read it all. There are 122 responses to this linked thread and it has been viewed 3,636 times.

http://www430.pair.com/p15d24/mopar_forum/showthread.php?t=22469&highlight=krap

Now make note that this is ONE THREAD THAT TAKES A PROBLEM FROM THE BEGINNING ALL THE WAY TO THE END. I did not start a new thread every time I made a posting about this problem. I did not start a new thread because I finally fixed this issue. I made postings about this problem to this thread only. It is so much easier to track a problem when there is only one thread to follow much the same as keeping all the eggs in one basket.

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Rivets are usually softer than joined metals. 'Usually' the rivet vibrates/ rattles smaller and allows slop. An easy fix is punch old rivet out and see how much play is in hole(ovaled).(rivets expand some when smacked) if metal is rattled long holes drilling them out slightly to round holes gets you back to original shape. I doubt many people can naked eye tell its one size bigger. Installing a rivet is a do it yourself learn how to 'peen' project of first order.

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Glad you finally figured it out.

Don's right. When I first joined this forum I had a problem I was trying to work through. I too was guilty of opening up a bunch of threads (I think at the time I thought the old threads were scrolling off to neverland.)

The result was confusion and answers being given all over the place.

One problem, one thread. Try it, you'll like it.:)

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That's a new one on me! Congratulations on solving it yourself. But having struggled with it you may have the opportunity to diagnose the same problem in someone else's vehicle. It may take a decade before you see another case like it. But then you get to posture like an actor, throw your arms up and your head back and pronounce "Oh good grief, it is just another vacuum advance ground out. Everybody knows about those." ;)

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