Jump to content

Rolling Rustoleum (Long)


randroid

Recommended Posts

Folks,

For the last three+ years I’ve been threatening to paint Pigiron, my ’48 P-15 more-door, with Rustoleum and a roller and it looks as though I may follow-through with that threat. Even though the banter has been tossed around I don’t know of anyone in the forum who has painted a car rolling Rustoleum and expecting an attractive finish so I’m going to get into perhaps too much detail but I want to tell you how I’m doing it.

For those of you newer members who’ve not gotten in on this inane discussion in the past, Rustoleum has been rolled onto cars since the 1930’s and it has two distinct advantages over spraying and they are deeply embedded in cost and ego: First, I would let my entire car oxidize back into the Earth from which it came before I would pay the criminal prices of modern paint. The major drug companies must manufacture that stuff because who else would think that $200-$500\gallon is reasonable? Rustoleum can be mixed just like any other paint to match any color you want, it takes a good polish, and costs about $30\gallon. Spraying would also require a booth and all the other stuff needed to spray that would also drive up the cost unreasonably for just one car. Second reason to roll Rustoleum is that I have done everything to this car that its taken to get it back on the road except the machine work on the engine and I wouldn’t miss the opportunity to get my hands dirty in the last major hurdle before it once again becomes my daily driver.

What I did today was primer the roof; front cowl up through the rain gutters and down to the trunk lid including the driver’s door window with all those scary creases just to see if I could cover them without resorting to a rattle can. I have no problem with rattle cans and I used them on my dash and will use them on most of the interior widow garnishes but there are so many compound curves on the body that if I were to buy as many rattle cans as it would take to paint the whole car I might as well ship it out to Earl Scheib. Rest assured that there was not a problem filling all those multiple creases smoothly and evenly with a hard foam four-inch roller.

The reason I did the primer today was that it is easy for me to get lost on that roof, so far as what needed more sanding and what didn’t. Common sense dictates that a large smooth surface such as is our roofs would make it simple but I could feel a few rough places although I couldn’t see them, so I gave the roof a coat of primer hoping it would make them show up, which it did. There are about four square inches of rough metal scattered over the rear half and they won’t take much to smooth once the primer is dry. We’re going to a James Taylor\Carol King concert Wednesday night in Denver and I hope it will be ready to sand on Thursday when we get back, at which point I’ll w\d sand it with 360 just to get rid of the bumps and any minor orange peel. We’ve all read articles on how to apply Rustoleum, at least a lot of us have, but there are always questions that aren’t addressed in those articles for which I didn’t know the answer so once upon my dinky ladder with a disposable pie pan holding six ounces of primer and my new roller I began questioning my method of application. Should I try to make straight even rows or what, so I simply used the ‘figure W’ motion just like painting a bedroom wall, and it worked great. Major orange peel occurs immediately but just keep rolling over it with very light pressure and it will become smoother as more paint leaves the roller and you’re addressing the new paint with a dry roller. Any lines of paint left by the ends of the roller can be removed the same way, and if you drag a thumbnail though it that will go away too. I started by going for the whole roof at once but soon found its better to go about four square feet at a time because even though I was in the shade of a large tree the primer started getting a little dry to work if I did much more. It develops a satin-like finish when it surface-dries and that won’t be squat to make glisten. Once I get it sanded I plan on applying a second coat of primer that’s been thinned radically (start by thinning about 30%). I’ve been told to never thin primer but that was for spraying and not rolling and I expect to have some bare metal by the time I get rid if the remaining rough spots so it makes sense to apply a second coat but a lot thinner than normal so it will dry faster and smoother. When push comes to shove Rustoleum doesn’t require a primer except over thick rust so my skinny white butt should be covered regardless.

The next update should come in by the end of the week and I’ll fill you in if you’re interested. This method takes weeks longer than spraying and doing it outside beckons leaves and bugs, but I’ll come up with something cheap to fix that before the job is done and the slack time can always be spent on wiring and other stuff I haven’t gotten around to yet.

-Randy

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Randy

I've watched that "Paint your car with Rustoleum" thread for a while now and it kinda morphed into "Paint your car with Brightside Yacht Paint"

Have you considered the Brightside?

Seems a bit more durable and self-levelling than Rustoleum.

Updates will be read with interest here for sure. Pics are nice, too ;)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I worked with I guy 30 years ago who painted his car with Rustoleum & a roller, and though it had a lot of orange peal up close, he did no sanding or buffing, either. And about 8 years before that a guy in HS painted his car with rattle cans, and he got about the same amount into it that way as with a cheap quickie spray job back then, and it looked terrible. My dad had a friend who painted his PU for him with a brush, and it was a very decent job. He used a good quality brush, and a slow thinner, and it flows out a lot after it is spread on (if you know when to leave it alone). I imagine it would be the same with a roller, although you should get an even better job with what you're doing.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

rustolium jobs still look WAY better than surface rust ... holds up a lot better than primer too ... if you aren't going to show it ,, it looks good from a few feet away ... I've seen several that look good even up-close ..

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Folks,

Thanks for the replies and words of encouragement; I honestly wasn't sure how this thread would go over.

I've read the articles on Bright-side and, other than getting the exact color I want I think it may be a better way to go. I decided to stick with Rustoleum because I already had it on hand and I can get it at the local Ace Hardware. It isn't called Rustoleum by them but if you read the fine print on the label you'll find that it's exactly Rustoleum.

I'm anxious to get the color coats going for several reasons, not the least of which is that it's been almost four years since I've driven it and I'm beyond getting very antsy. The color coats have different rolling properties than the primer that (supposedly) make it easier to apply. Once I get a smooth finish on the primer, say finished with 600 grit, two things will occur; it will give me an idea how it's going to look and, most importantly, it will start being pretty and I'll be able to reinstall the glass, thereby allowing me to be rid of the tarp that's required by local ordinance. (I guess any tarp is considered better looking than any '48 Plymouth, but I won't open that can of worms.)

I'm going to finish the top half before I do much to the bottom because of the issue with the new window rubber needing to be masked, but applying the primer has been a bit anti-climatic in that it is exactly the same color as the primer used in the factory and doesn't look any different than when I started. When a difference becomes appearant I'll start taking pictures.

-Randy

Link to comment
Share on other sites

our local ACE has almost quit carrying Rustoleum..they went back to stocking Rsuty Meatal Primer on my request. I think it is due to their house brand...here in my area that line is call "Do It Best" I bought a quart of their paint and was not pleased, the color was semi gloss at best, even color sanding and Mequairs would not enhance its shine...I was not pleased..I think they are a bit to heavy in alkyld base...will have lasting qualities as far as pigments, but shine is less and it will chalk rather fast if left exposed to sunlight..just my findings..just my opinion..but I will admit to giving the product a fair test..that way I can have an actual opinion based on usage.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I believe the boat paints don't take to wet-sanding and polishing too well. I'm painting a boat right now and you may want to use the roll-tip method. Instead of just rolling then sanding, you roll out a small section then tip it with a dry brush (very lightly draw the brush across perpendicular to the rolling). On my boat I'm using a badger hair brush ($$$). You probably wouldn't need that high of a quality brush since you're thinning the paint out much more than I am and you're also sanding.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I On my boat I'm using a badger hair brush ($$$). .
We don't need no stinkin' badgers!!

uh sorry there Brad...too good to pass up:) I have used Van Sickle paint on some projects, their industrial line, and I like it. Lately on my 49 Dodge PU, with their John Deere Green trimmed in John Deere Yellow. I buy it at Atwoods, a local Farm/Ranch store. I spray it with Naptha as a reducer, and wet gloss hardener from O'reilly's. Joel

post-2269-13585355901785_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I seen a program on TV some time ago of painting a big boat with the brush method. Doing about 2 square feet at a time, using a medium brush first to apply paint, and using a very soft brush to blend the paint. The boat paint was very expensive, and the results looked very good.

I used Tractor Supply paint on my utility trailers, but it does not hold up well to sunlight.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Folks,

Through the generous advice here on the forum and a few PMs regarding the advantages and disadvantages of using Rustoleum, Briteside, and a few others I have come to the conclusion that the jury is still out on which will suit my needs the best, and to this end I will continue to use Rustoleum.

I have been advised that it is the hardest and the softest, has the best shine and is the most dull, will retain its color longest and fades first, etc., and to be very honest I'm in a bit of a quandary about the whole thing. Please don't think I don't appreciate all the excellent advise and opinions because such is simply not the case; you're input has been very helpful getting my to this point and I hope it doesn't stop now. I have the Rustoleum on hand and I'll start taking pictures and giving my own opinions once it gets past the primer stage.

Thanks to everyone,

-Randy

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Randy I can tell you this much. I didn't roll it but I've got rustoleum rusty metal primer and black paint on the front frame of the p15 and my back bumper on the 46 pickup. Looks just like black paint. Now neither paint is exposed to much sunlight so I can't say how long until they fade.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Randy, just go ahaead and do it your way, or if you want follow or heed any of the advice you would like.

Okay so it will be Rustoleum, follow the recipe, try say a door first, and see what the results are.

If your happy with that, go to work, and either paint fenders/doors/hood body seperate, or do as a unit.

Once it's done, and if you don't like the results, sand down paint, and do something else, its as simple as that, paint not to your standards, sand off, and re-do. Or let the rustoleum cure good and long, block sand and shoot on epoxy primer and paint.

As far as fading and chalking, polsih the alkyd paint back to shine, that shouldn't be a problem.

I would start witha door, fender or hood, and see what you think, post your steps/results, and pics, and let's see you get this idea you have been planning come to life.

I know the body and paint folks would cringe, and state , this type of painting should be frowned upon, I have seen good examples of this type of painting, so go for it.

Also check out the paint rolloing thread on Mopars for further advice.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm not for or against either one, I just wondered if you had considered the Brightside is all.

A good friend bought a well used 62 Chebby a few yrs ago that was in decent shape for a beater but the paint had gone south.

He went to the local Woolco (OK, it was more than a few yrs ago) and bought some pray Tremclad (same as Rustoleum)

The paint turned out really well but faded a bit. A quick Turtle wax job brought it back like new, and the paint lasted the 15 yrs they had the old beast with just a coat of Turtle wax each year.

I'll see if they have a picture of it.

Good luck on the paint Randy, I think you'll be happy with the outcome.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.

Terms of Use