krap

[Big_John]

Continuing on the mock up I bought the master cylinder tubing fittings I will need. Then did a bench assembly to see how close the 90 degree bend must be to fit the line between the master cylinder and the bracket. On the front chamber I have less than 3/4" and on the rear chamber about 7/8". Any ideas on how to bend tubing this close? My bender is way too big to do this. For those who have used the "easy bend" new fangled tubing will it bend this close without kinking?

Two thoughts come to mind. First there may be an adaptor fitting that will screw directly into the inverted flare connection and let you use an elbow to connect to the line. I used to use one (years ago) for adapting the old style trailer brakes that required hooking into the brake line. It had two female flare fittings at 90 degrees and one male inverted flare that sealed directly to the master cylinder. Take a look through the Weatherhead or maybe even the Swagelock catalogs.

My other thought involves drilling holes through the frame rails directly opposite the master cylinder to allow the lines to pass through. That's just off the top of my head though and I have no idea if there is anything on the other side of the frame that won't allow it.

Edited August 8, 2010 by Big_John

[hkestes41]

Continuing on the mock up I bought the master cylinder tubing fittings I will need. Then did a bench assembly to see how close the 90 degree bend must be to fit the line between the master cylinder and the bracket. On the front chamber I have less than 3/4" and on the rear chamber about 7/8". Any ideas on how to bend tubing this close? My bender is way too big to do this. For those who have used the "easy bend" new fangled tubing will it bend this close without kinking?

Don,

Maybe you need to look at one of these from Speedway http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Stainless-Brake-Lines-with-90-Degree-End,1994.html

$13.99 and looks like it would be a quick and easy solution without worries with a kinked line of possible stress fracture of a very tight bend somewhere down the road.

Stainless Brake Lines with 90 Degree End

Or this fitting from Bear's Performance at $9.95

Edited August 8, 2010 by hkestes41

[Don Coatney]

I called ECI to complain about the problem with the short bend on the fittings. I was told the answer man is still out of town and will not return until Wednesday this week.

This morning I fixed my clutch pedal missing spacer problem. I ordered a bronze bushing from McMaster Carr (part number 3750K18, Oil lube bronze, 1 1/4" od, 3/4" id, 1/8" thick, $6.85 delivered). It was a couple thousands too thick but a couple swipes with a file cleaned it up. I now have a nice snug smooth fit.

[Chester Brzostowski]

The powers to be at ECI are away at a show and will be back in the office on Wednesday. I don’t have an issue doing the disk conversion for the front along with the Master Cylinder from the Chevy so that the brake lines are easier to install.

My question is: Did anyone on this board have a problem with using the stock 15” rims and the new disk brakes?

Also Don, What is the fix for the alignment issue that ECI said was fixed ?

Tks Chet...

[martybose]

It's too bad that there are 2 threads running about the ECI setup; as I said in the other one, I think Don received the wrong master cylinder, as the one that I just received has fittings towards the driveshaft side. The ECI catalog list a Mustang and a Torino master cylinder that are identical except that the fittings are on the opposite side; mine is supposed to be the Mustang one.

Don, thanks for the info on the thrust washer; I haven't got that far on mine yet!

Marty

[Don Coatney]

My question is: Did anyone on this board have a problem with using the stock 15” rims and the new disk brakes?

Also Don, What is the fix for the alignment issue that ECI said was fixed ?

Tks Chet...

Chet;

Our fellow brothern Norms Coupe bought the ECI disc converson kit. It was (acording to Norm) a simple bolt on conversion. He could not use his stock rims with there kit. I bought the Plydo disc kit. With there kit I had to drill and tap a hole. I have the drill and tap required to do this if you need to borrow them. My stock rims did work although I never elected to used them as my choice was to convert to Wheelvintiques chrome rims. I believe Charlie Akers (okddaddy on this forum) makes a kit similar to Plydo (drilling and taping required) and stock rims will work. Check with him to make sure.

On the brake pedal alignment issue ECI told me that was not an issue. However I found out it was an issue. It appears that ECI upgraded there master cylinder kit and with this upgrade comes the brake pedal placement 1/2" to the right. I called them and sent them an e-mail with documenting pictures but as you said the powers to be are at the Louisville show so I have not yet recieved an answer. Worst case is I may have to hog out the slots in my removable floor panel to make this work. Then of course I will have to re-train my right (club) foot to find the brake pedal in its new location.

[Don Coatney]

It's too bad that there are 2 threads running about the ECI setup; as I said in the other one, I think Don received the wrong master cylinder, as the one that I just received has fittings towards the driveshaft side. The ECI catalog list a Mustang and a Torino master cylinder that are identical except that the fittings are on the opposite side; mine is supposed to be the Mustang one.

Don, thanks for the info on the thrust washer; I haven't got that far on mine yet!

Marty

Marty;

Hope the thrust washer information helps. I prpbably should have ordered more than one as the freight cost was more than the bushing cost. They sent the thrust washer in a huge box. I expected an envelope.

Of interest I was told I was getting a Mustang master cylinder. And as I said on the other thread. I am not a happy camper and I am glad I am not stuck on the side of the road waiting on the ECI answer man to return from vacation.

[Chester Brzostowski]

It's too bad that there are 2 threads running about the ECI setup;

Marty

Marty,

What is the link to the other thread? There has been a lot of threads about this topic over the years and I was hoping that ECI by now has worked out the bugs for this setup. I guess I was wrong. So far from this tread I have heard that there are Chevy master cylinder, Mustang MC, and you mentioned Torino master cylinder ? Do these guys send whatever they happen to have lying around the shop. A P15 should be straight forward at this point. At least that is what is advertised.

I want to use the original rims and if this may be a problem based on what they send me then maybe I will keep the original master and ensure I have a good emergency brake. I thought this would be an easy retrofit.

Chet…

[Don Coatney]

Chet;

Here is the other thread link.

http://www430.pair.com/p15d24/mopar_forum/showthread.php?p=209162#post209162

[Chester Brzostowski]

Thanks Don.

[Jim Yergin]

I want to use the original rims and if this may be a problem based on what they send me then maybe I will keep the original master and ensure I have a good emergency brake. I thought this would be an easy retrofit.

Chet…

Chet,

I have disc brakes from AAJ Brakes and a master cylinder set-up from ECI on my '41 (different from the P15 set-up). I use the original rims with no problem.

Jim Yergin

[Young Ed]

Jim your originals are 16s where Chets could be 15s.

[Jim Yergin]

Jim your originals are 16s where Chets could be 15s.

Ed,

You are right but I am running original P15 15" rims on my '41 (easier to find tires). I should have been clearer when I said "original."

Jim Yergin

[Young Ed]

Gotcha clear as mud huh That will help Chet though. Possibly me too when I go to build my next truck

[Barabbas]

I have the ECI conversion on my P-23--the original 15" wheels rubbed on the calipers even with 1/2" of spacers. The brakes work very well and now I have an excuse to buy some new smoothies.

I had a mechanic install the ECI dual M/C ( I don't do plumbing), he said he had to do a little modifying to get it to work but I don't know the details

[Chester Brzostowski]

Ed,

You are right but I am running original P15 15" rims on my '41 (easier to find tires). I should have been clearer when I said "original."

Jim Yergin

Jim, Great info.

I do have 15" rims. I will check with AAJ for the front disks. This sounds like a good match up as long as I can avoid the same issues you ran into prior to that first Sully Show.

Chet...

[hkestes41]

I have Oldaddy's kit on mine and I am running the stock 48 15 inch wheels.

Very satisfied with the performance of the brakes and the fit of the kit.

[Chester Brzostowski]

Hay Don,

I ordered the Duel Master Cylinder kit from ECI today. I am getting the Mustang MC so that I can use the original drum breaks front & rear. Also I was told that if I wish to use disks in the front I would only have to change the front residual valve and not the MC. My purpose here is safety so drums front & rear for now with the option to move forward with disks in the front if needed.

Don I posed the half inch peddle move to them and they played dumb on the issue referencing that someone else mentioned this recently but they were not aware of any issue. With my size 13 feet the half-inch will hardly be noticeable.

The stuff is in the mail. Chet…

The Chevy MC is suppose to be for Disks front & Rear

[Don Coatney]

Chet;

Cancel your order! I just got off the phone with ECI and they told me the Musting master cylinder they sent is correct for the disc calipers I have on the front of my car and they will do nothing except give me the phone number of someone who may be able to cobble up some fittings. Pasted below is the e-mail communication I had with them. I guess there tape measure must work differently that mine does. How many years would it take to build up enough dirt in an 1/8" axial space to bind the pedal. I am not impressed with there BS answers. If you do cancel your order tell them it was because of the answers they gave me.

Don, The 46-48 assembly moves the pedal to the right 1/4 in. It looks like 1/2 inch the way you are measuring it, but you need to measure relative to the mounting surface of the original m/c.where it bolts to the chassis. The hole in the floor will tolerate that no problem. The axial clearance on both the brake and the clutch pedals is there to provide for any build up of dirt by the bushings so as not to bind the pedals and/or bushings-leave it alone. Ralph

--- On Thu, 8/5/10, doncoatney@comcast.net <doncoatney@comcast.net> wrote:

From: doncoatney@comcast.net <doncoatney@comcast.net>

Subject: Dual Master Cylinder 48 Plymouth

To: hotrodbrakes@sbcglobal.net

Date: Thursday, August 5, 2010, 2:16 PM

I recently

purchased a dual master cylinder "bolt on" kit from you for my 1948 Plymouth. First off I would like to say the welds and craftsmanship of your kit are top notch. However I do have a couple of questions.

Per a phone conversation I had this morning with one of your employees attached are the photos to support my questions..

When I ordered this kit I asked if the pedal spacing remained the same as factory. (One of my friends who had purchased your kit told me that the brake pedal location with your kit is 1/2" to the right.) I was told by you that the spacing is the same as factory. Once I received your kit and mocked it up I find that the brake pedal location is indeed 1/2" to the right. The first picture shows the original master cylinder with the 1 1/2" spacing. Second picture shows the mock up with a 2" spacing.

Second issue is the clutch pedal mounting. You supply with your kit a spacer that is approxmantely 1/8" wide. If I use this spacer only the brake pedal will "float" on the shaft about 1/8". This extra space can be seen in the third picture as I have a screwdriver blade pointing to it.

I understand the person who can answer these questions is in Louisville until next Wednesday so I guess I must put this project on hold or improvise.

Don Coatney

[Plymouthy Adams]

Don, you already have more time and moeny and retro engineering into this fabricated kit than ony one counsumer should ever have to put up with..one would think a bit more of the particulars would have been taken to heart and a solution be found..sorry to hear of your trouble..and on top of that, ole Blue still sits...

[rockable]

. Krap.

[Chester Brzostowski]

Don,

What you need to make this work is an Edelmann Fitting Part# 261320. Adapter 3/16 Inverted Flair to 1/8 Pipe. Then you can use a standard 1/8 pipe elbow to 3/16 tubing. This is the best way to go in that between the two fittings you can tighten to the proper position.

Am I correct in that the standard brake line tubing is 3/16.

Please Advise, Chet…

[PatS....]

Don, I think they are full of dog-poop regarding their own products.

This was posted on this forum but I can't remember whose it is

Clearly shows outlets toward the middle of the car, quite accessible.

Maybe send them this pic and ask them what's up??

[Plymouthy Adams]

I think if you weer to go to the parts house and ask for a late 80's Marquis/Victoria cylinder you would get the correct oriented outlets..

on another note, did the instructions have you remove the internal residual valves of the master cylinder?

[james curl]

In the picture of the installed kit you will note that someone welded a stop to the adapter for the clutch pedal to come back to rest on. They are relying on the floorboard to be a return stop for the brake pedal. ECI did not provide a stop on either side of the trunnion area to allow you to adjust the finial resting position of the pedals as the original master cylinder does. Don, I would think you would want to provide for positive stops for the pedals and not relay on the rubber draft seals to provide the return stop for the pedals. This was one of the problems that I ran into on the adapter that I designed several years ago and had to come back and weld additional material to my trunnion bushing for the pedal stops to rest on.