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Don Coatney

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I just figured out Bebop's conversion. Unless there is something in the way, I like what he did. In short; he gutted the original MC, then ran a long rod through it attached to the brake pedal; then welded a mount to the frame on to which he mounted a master cylinder of his choice. Then he cut the rod to bridge the gap and ergo, a dual master cylinder converstion.

I have a 97 Cherokee MC and proportiioning unit on my truck. With a 4" X 4" angle iron as a amount, this is going to be easy to do. Thank you Beebo! Thank you for adding to the music!

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Paul, keep in mind that if you are running discs in front and drums on the rear that the bore size of the master cylinder is critical. Smaller bore is better. larger bore will require excessive foot pressure to work. One advantage of the ECI setup is they have designed compound pedal linkage to give additional leverage. That linkage with a small bore master requires minimul foot pressure to lock the brakes.

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I also should add that there are many who have devised a system that still uses the factory brake pedal with the original gutted master cylinder in place and the dual chamber master located behind the original with the activation rod running through the original cylinder. These setups appear to work well but one disadvantage is the master cylinder fill cap is now located under the drivers seat and not redily accessable. One thing I liked about the ECI setup is the fill cap is located close to the original location.

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I wish I was on my shop computer so I could show a pic of the Cherokee MC. It is SMALLER than the original truck mc, so I think it meets that criteria. For filling and checking that cap. . . I think the reservoir sits on top of the MC so it could be put on the firewall and plumbed accordingly. Will have to go to my pics.

Thanks for the heads up on this. I'm using vacation time to research.

OT QUESTION: WILL AN 'A BODY' REAR AXLE 7.27 / 276 RATIO AND SPRINGS work in my car?

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  • 1 year later...

I'm a little apprehensive on going the ECI route after reading through all of this, but mainly because I don't have the resources to overcome the fabrication required (Precision drilling and welding of peddle stops). 
I have the Rusty Hope conversion kit, and will not convert to larger calipers that would cause me to deviate from the stock wheels.

 

I guess this leaves me with a few questions:

  1. Is this my only option to safely convert to a dual MC using Rusty Hope front discs, and stock drums in the rear?
  2. If this is my only option, is there a concise list of parts that I need to order? I also read a few MC options mentioned throughout the 7 pages, but was not sure if anyone had zeroed in on the best MC to use.
  3. And the big question, anyone willing to let me solicit their fabrication skills to make the noted necessary modifications to the ECI bracket?

 Thanks for the great documentation, Don! I'm a novice, and appreciate the shared knowledge.

 

Aaron

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Aaron,  I can offer no help but I'm sure there are those that will.

However, I'd like to thank you for bringing this thread back to the forefront.  I've just read the whole thing.

 

And I'd like to suggest that this procedure could be summarized and added to the Tech Reference section.  This information might otherwise go largely unnoticed to many who are and will attempt to make this conversion.

 

Thanks to Don for excellent documentation.

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Continuing on the mock up I bought the master cylinder tubing fittings I will need. Then did a bench assembly to see how close the 90 degree bend must be to fit the line between the master cylinder and the bracket. On the front chamber I have less than 3/4" and on the rear chamber about 7/8". Any ideas on how to bend tubing this close? My bender is way too big to do this. For those who have used the "easy bend" new fangled tubing will it bend this close without kinking?

MVC-001F-2.jpg

 

I tried the 'easy bend' stuff for my brake job and ended up getting straight stock at Oreilly's. Looks about the same as you are using. It felt thin and cheap, although it did bend by hand if you tried a serious 90 like what you are looking at it flattened at the bend. So I would say no, it wont help.

Might try bending it first then cut and flare if you have enough short end for the flaring tool.

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Banjo fittings, thats a great idea.

Dint mean to come in on a previous post but I was reading thru it and when I saw that thought Id chime in. Then looked at the bottom and there was about 4 more pages. Realized you had to have got thru that a while back. Felt a little silly...

 

But thanks for bringing this post back out. Be next year but I may be looking at a brake conversion myself. But I have to get it driving first.

 

Thanks.

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I have an ECI Kit on my D34 and it has worked beautifully. I did not have to cut a hole on the floor, I can fill it from below. But then again, I do have a hoist.

My MC has the lines on the passenger side though. And it is a Ford one.

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On my 48, I used a Mustang II Master Cylinder.

I went with the "through the original MC similar what many others have done,

but I attached the Mustang MC to the original bracket on the frame, and

added a piece of angle iron, (blue piece), worked great.

I added a hinged access cover to the floor to add fluid...

post-1465-0-07938600-1428151424_thumb.jpg

post-1465-0-79249900-1428151444_thumb.jpg

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