Guest rockabillybassman Posted March 1, 2007 Report Share Posted March 1, 2007 Got a question for the knowledgeable. My P26 is nearly ready to hit the streets, but when I put new oil in the diff it all dripped out the pinion seal in about three days. The car was sitting for 15 years prior to my aquisition. The oil was the correct oil for the job. I guess the seal just perished from not beibg lubricated. Is the fix just a matter of dropping the driveshaft, undoing the nut, prying out the seal and banging a new one in? A couple of things bother me. First, the manual says the nut is torqued to 250!!! How the hell am I gonna shift that sucker? Secondly, do I need to be concerned about preload of the pinion? Or is this automatic when ya hit the 250? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
47heaven Posted March 1, 2007 Report Share Posted March 1, 2007 Mine needs replaced, as well. Where can you find pinion seals for P15's? I went to a gear shop here in town and he can fix it, but can't locate a new one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BobT-47P15 Posted March 1, 2007 Report Share Posted March 1, 2007 I can't recall for sure now.....I got mine either at the auto parts store or from ebay. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dennis Hemingway Posted March 1, 2007 Report Share Posted March 1, 2007 There is one on E-Bay now. Some one watches this Forum. Not mine. Dennis:cool: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Young Ed Posted March 1, 2007 Report Share Posted March 1, 2007 Guys I put a new one in my coupe a year or 2 ago. Pretty sure I got it from napa. I'll look tonight for a part #. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank M. Posted March 1, 2007 Report Share Posted March 1, 2007 Replacing these seals can be a real job. If its the original one, they were a stepped seal with a felt duster ahead of the leather seal. I have some original,I think,but they would have to be soaked with Neatsfoot oil. Taking them out can be a nightmare if you use a chisel or pry bar. My son bought me a seal remover and its well worth the dough. If the bore of the rear axle housing gets scored,its a good idea to goop the outside of the seal or the grease can leak out around it. ALSO-- if the hub of the flange has a groove-- a Redi-Sleeve made of thin stainless steel can be put over it giving a new wearing surface. All seals now usually have a companion sleeve that is availiable. Its kinda pricey, but putting a new seal in and then it still leaks makes these thing seem cheap. Lotsa naughty words will help. I have found that the torque on the pinion nut isnt that critical. At least for me. One I did was so tight , I had to jack the car up-put a BIG pipe wrench on the flange and with a 3/4 drive socket handle on the floor-let the car down. THAT busted it loose. If you think the PLY seals are hard to find,try getting one for a 8 cyl. Chrysler. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bob westphal Posted March 1, 2007 Report Share Posted March 1, 2007 According to my manual, it isn't necessary to set any pre-load when replacing the pinion seal. You will need to have a suitable puller to remove the flange and a good way to remove the old seal. You won't be able to just pry it out. They are a bear without a suitable seal puller that will grab the seal all around the perifery of the inner seal surface. You will also need a proper tool to start the new seal in the housing so that it doesn't cock to one side. I ruined several seals by trying to tap them in with a large socket and hammer. The book says the final torque should be 180 - 320 ft. lbs. I have just got it tight with a 3/4 drive socket and handle while a helper held the brake on and have had no problems. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest rockabillybassman Posted March 1, 2007 Report Share Posted March 1, 2007 Thanks for the advice. Andy B has the seals listed. Hmmm, looks like it's gonna be harder than first expected. Presumably, any puller with jaws the reverse of normal should be able to grab the seal. I would have thought it could be collapsed with a hammer and chisel, but obviously not. Is there a special tool for inserting a new seal? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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