greg g Posted January 30, 2010 Report Share Posted January 30, 2010 I can actually attest to carburetor icing situation, where the flow of air past the trottle plate and into the manifold actually caused ice to form on the outside of the carb. This was back when I ran a honda civic as an ice race car. It would run great for about half of a 10 miute race, then would start chhugging and shut off. A couple minutes of sitting would allow it to start right up and drive fine again. but this was not conducive to beig competative. I finally plumbed heated air from the passenger foot well to the air cleaner, and the problem disappeared. So under the condition we were operating, cold temps high humidity, and WOT for most of the time not only was fuel dropping out of suspension, but having the moisture in the air freeze also. So You gotta make up your mind based on under what conditions your car will work under. If driving in cold weather will be a large part of its existance, or for folks like Pete at high elevations, then the proper heating of the intake is probably an important consideration. From my operatonal experience, not so much. Examine the evidence, do due diligence and arrive at your conclusion. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
n1gzd_plymouth Posted January 30, 2010 Author Report Share Posted January 30, 2010 well I certainly know about carb ice. I fly an airplane that has a manual carb heat control for when you need to heat induction air to melt ice. I have to use it only when it is cold and humid. Rebecca Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
greg g Posted January 31, 2010 Report Share Posted January 31, 2010 This is not a MOPAR (Ford I think) flathead but maybe some ideas here you can adapt. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
n1gzd_plymouth Posted January 31, 2010 Author Report Share Posted January 31, 2010 I can't quite tell how they are supporting that linkage. Is it bolted somehow to the intake? This does look interesting. Do you know where I can view a larger image of it? Rebecca Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blueskies Posted January 31, 2010 Report Share Posted January 31, 2010 I can't quite tell how they are supporting that linkage. Is it bolted somehow to the intake? This does look interesting. Do you know where I can view a larger image of it?Rebecca That's how Langdon's linkage kit works... don't have a picture handy, but it's a pair of plates that bolt inbetween the carbs and intake to support a linkage rod. The rest of the linkage in the kit works out like mine. Pete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
n1gzd_plymouth Posted January 31, 2010 Author Report Share Posted January 31, 2010 Does it bolt by drilling a hole in the manifold? A friend of mine suggested creating a plate shaped like the carburetor gasked that goes under each carburetor and sticks out from there to support the linkage hardware. Rebecca Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
greg g Posted February 1, 2010 Report Share Posted February 1, 2010 If you have some fabricating skills, you can make a couple of plates shaped like the Carb gasket with ears on them. The ears are then bent perpendicular to the plate and drilled to hold the horizontal linkage rod. The plates are then mouted between the carb and the maifold or ay spacers you might be using. This of course requires extra gaskets. It looks like the manifold was drilled and taped for the counter sunk screws holding the bell crank. there should be plenty of meat there and the holes needn't be very deep. If they were to go through thread sealer would prevent any downstream air intake.through them. If you don't wand look at the screws, the bottom of the manifold could be drilled and taped, and the bracket "L" shaped. Or you could call George Asche and buy a couple of his mounts (description pirated above) and linkage stuff. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
greg g Posted February 1, 2010 Report Share Posted February 1, 2010 (edited) Looks like the bracket is mounted into drilled and taped holes in the intake. The holes needn't be deep, but if they were to go thorugh, thread sealer would keep out any downstream air. The gasket shaped deals are what Greorge Asche has been sell for a few years, if you have some fab skill they need an ear on them bent perpendicular t the plate with w hole drilled them. You retain the horizontal linkage piece with some set screw threaded collets. Or you could just buy them ready made from George. If you don't like the looks of the screws on the side of the intake, drill and tap them on the bottom, and make the bellcrank bracket "L" shaped . Edited February 1, 2010 by greg g Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
greg g Posted February 1, 2010 Report Share Posted February 1, 2010 Please accept the apoligies of the department of redundancy department for the redundancy of posts above this post. The bureau of clarification folks have been notified. The obscufation czar will be along shortly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
n1gzd_plymouth Posted February 1, 2010 Author Report Share Posted February 1, 2010 If you have some fabricating skills, you can make a couple of plates shaped like the Carb gasket with ears on them. The ears are then bent perpendicular to the plate and drilled to hold the horizontal linkage rod. The plates are then mouted between the carb and the maifold or ay spacers you might be using. That is exactly what I was trying to describe above. I wish that I could see a picture of a setup like that. Thanks, Rebecca Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
greg g Posted February 1, 2010 Report Share Posted February 1, 2010 Lets see if this shows and if you can make sense of it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
n1gzd_plymouth Posted February 1, 2010 Author Report Share Posted February 1, 2010 Yes. something like that is exactly what I had in mind. I was hoping that someone here has done something like this and had pictures. Thanks for the drawing. Rebecca Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blueskies Posted February 1, 2010 Report Share Posted February 1, 2010 Rebecca- Here's an example of a heat plate... Langdon's sells this one for $30. The brass fittings connect to the heater hose and run hot coolant through the cavity in the bottom of the intake to prevent icing and air/fuel mixture condensing. Here's a couple of pics of the linkage plate that Greg described in his post- I believe these were made out of stainless by George Asche. This engine belongs to member "Terry in Bozrah". You can see more pics in his album here. This engine is in a PowerWagon truck, so the linkage pulls from the firewall to the bell-crank mounted to the intake. Pete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
greg g Posted February 1, 2010 Report Share Posted February 1, 2010 If I'm not mistaken Terry is in CT, may be close enough for a road trip. He hasn't posted since the end of December, but he might be reachable by PM. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
n1gzd_plymouth Posted February 1, 2010 Author Report Share Posted February 1, 2010 Wow. I will try and contact him. That is exactly what I want to do (but my intake does not have the mounting place for the control cable brackets). thanks for finding these pictures. Rebecca Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blueskies Posted February 1, 2010 Report Share Posted February 1, 2010 Rebecca- If you are planning to go with the cable to pull the linkage, then you can mount the cable in a variety of ways. I used an inexpensive off the shelf throttle bracket from my local car quest, and mounted it to the base of one of the carbs. You can see it in this pic. Pete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
greg g Posted February 1, 2010 Report Share Posted February 1, 2010 Terry's intake is a modified stock unit, so it probably had the necessary castings to mount the bracket, if not the predrilled/taped holes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mpn23748 Posted February 3, 2010 Report Share Posted February 3, 2010 not sure if it will help, but here are a few pics of mine Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moose Posted February 3, 2010 Report Share Posted February 3, 2010 Hey Rebecca, I noticed today that one of my cast iron intakes has the side bracket like yours. If you'd like to use it to modify, instead of your original, you are welcome to it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
greg g Posted February 4, 2010 Report Share Posted February 4, 2010 I thik She just scored a fenton she plans on using. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moose Posted February 4, 2010 Report Share Posted February 4, 2010 I thik She just scored a fenton she plans on using. I meant the bracket. I think this one is from a 25incher... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mr63inaz Posted February 4, 2010 Report Share Posted February 4, 2010 not sure if it will help, but here are a few pics of mine Wow cool set up. is this a commom up grade or do I need to source some really hard to find stuff? This picture has sold me on staying with my stock motor if I can just change a cam and head for better flow?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mpn23748 Posted February 4, 2010 Report Share Posted February 4, 2010 Wow cool set up. is this a commom up grade or do I need to source some really hard to find stuff? This picture has sold me on staying with my stock motor if I can just change a cam and head for better flow?? head and cam is available through edgy speed shop edmunds intake I got off of ebay and headers were through www.exhaustedbyphillips.com, carbs I got from Langdon stovebolt. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blueskies Posted February 4, 2010 Report Share Posted February 4, 2010 head and cam is available through edgy speed shop edmunds intake I got off of ebay and headers were throughwww.exhaustedbyphillips.com, carbs I got from Langdon stovebolt. The phillips headers are way cool... Curious if you can get the valve tappet covers off without removing the headers? I have Langdon's headers on mine, and there is no way to adjust the valves without removing the intake and exhaust manifolds first. Thus, no way to do a hot valve adjustment. If the pic doesn't show, hit reload on your browser... Pete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mpn23748 Posted February 4, 2010 Report Share Posted February 4, 2010 Pete, same thing with mine, I just removed them as quick as I could and then did the valve adjustments The phillips headers are way cool... Curious if you can get the valve tappet covers off without removing the headers? I have Langdon's headers on mine, and there is no way to adjust the valves without removing the intake and exhaust manifolds first. Thus, no way to do a hot valve adjustment. If the pic doesn't show, hit reload on your browser... Pete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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