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5 Speed, Not T5


Robert Horne

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Hey Robert,

I know you told me once but what pilot bearing did you use and where did you get it?

I bought an oilite bearing on ebay. The seller is, "bronze-bushings" , two bushings $4.50 each, with only 1 shipping price, $5.25. I bought two different bearing, one to press inside the other. These are 1 1/2 long, about 3/8 inch protudes out of the crankshaft hole. 15/16 OD x 3/4 ID,,,,,,,,3/4OD x 9/16 ID. I put the smaller one in the freezer for a day before pressing it into the larger one. I bored the 9/16 with a 19/32, (.593).. I ended up with about .003 or .004 clearance, whick does not seem to be enough clearance, I found out later. I put the bushing into the freezer again before installing into the crankshaft hole. Later I bored the bushing again to a clearance of about .006 or .007, seems ok......:cool:

This photo is my practice engine 1956.

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I installed the 5 speed today. Everything seemed to line up ok ..

But, Trans will not shift into gear with the engine running.

Shifts smooth with engine not running.

I put trans into any gear, and start the engine, wheels turn good, but pressing in the clutch, does not disengage.

Trans slips out of gear smooth, engine running or not.

O well, back to the drawing board...:(

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I installed the 5 speed today. Everything seemed to line up ok ..

But, Trans will not shift into gear with the engine running.

Shifts smooth with engine not running.

I put trans into any gear, and start the engine, wheels turn good, but pressing in the clutch, does not disengage.

Trans slips out of gear smooth, engine running or not.

O well, back to the drawing board...:(

Bob, I had a similar problem with my conversion---the clutch disc would not slide back far enough on the splines to disingage the clutch disc.It ran out of travel as the splines taper up. I ended up reversing the hub on the disc.I had to go back to my clutch guy to do this. The high side usually faces the tranny---I had it going into the engine side---the crank hole on my 265 had the room---I don`t know if yours is the same---hope this helps......Lee

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Edited by BeBop138
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over the years I have seen disc put in backwards..you should be able to inspect the disc from below for orientation and with someone pressing the clutch to very that he pressure plate is moving rearward..but the actual movement of the disc during operation is minimal at best as the pressure plate moves rearward when the pedal is depressed pushing the throwout bearing forward against the dogs..

One such installed backward disc led to the faliure (breaking in half) of the pressure plate for effectively not clutch action whatsoever..the guy who did this makes Red Green look like the NASA employee of the month..

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Robert, that's sure nice of you to work out all the bugs for us. ;) You'll get it, I've got faith in you.

This is a good challenge for sure. I bought the Coupe (P5) in 1986, along with a P6 for parts.

My clutch disc has about 3/8 to 1/2 inch of spline remaining on the shaft,

should be plenty of room for movement.

My wife pressed the clutch pedal, and I can see the disc release, and put a

feeler gauge between the disc and flywheel..

I am using the Plymouth pressure plate, and a new Ranger disc.

I forgot to measure the thickness of the Ranger disc, and compare it to the

Plymouth disc I was using, (brain dead again).

.

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It'll be days before we hear from him, Don. He's probably out cruising the freeways right now.:D

I sure wish we could be out cruising the 38, have to let this old body heal

up a couple of days.

I believe my problem before was the different in thickness of the disc.

I hope to be back to work on it tomorrow....:cool:

I have several Plymouth disc, and they all have different thickness.......

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My adjustment rod was a little to long for the Plymouth pressure plate/ Ford disc setup. I was going to add more threads to the rod, but found a shorter one.

It was very difficult to press the clutch pedal, and disc would not disengage. It looked as if it was releasing, but not enough to let me put it in gear..

I used .100 shims to raise the pressure plate, trans worked good engine running, but would not turn the wheels very well.

I uses .040 shims to raise the pressure plate, trans would not work, when engine was running.

I use .080 shims to raise the pressure plate, trans worked good, turned rear wheel good, even when applying a little brake. I drove the car around the property. First, second, and reverse very smooth. The clutch starts working a little high on the foot pedal, so I will try to adjust the rod, and maybe try .070 shims.

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I put the shims between the pressure plate and flywheel.

So far .067 seems to be the best. I believe the Ford disc was thicker

than the Plymouth disc that I was using before. I have two different

adjustments rods also, one is a little too short, and the other is a little too

long. With a better fitting adjustment rod, I may be able to take off the

shims. Still experimenting. The car drove great yesterday for a short

test trip a couple of miles....

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it is not recommended to drill oilite..the action seals the natural porosity of the metal..oilite needs be cut on a lathe..

Tim, you are correct to cut the oilite on a lathe.

I do not have a lathe, but I do have 3 drill bits very close to the size I

need to make the bearing. I am not suggesting to anyone, the way I

do things is correct, or the way to go, only that it is the procedure I am

going with on this experiment, for now.

I believe the Don Coatney hockey puck looking bearing setup would be the

best way to go. This photo is just a plastic wheel with a needle bearing

for measurements..........

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I put the shims between the pressure plate and flywheel.

So far .067 seems to be the best. I believe the Ford disc was thicker

than the Plymouth disc that I was using before. I have two different

adjustments rods also, one is a little too short, and the other is a little too

long. With a better fitting adjustment rod, I may be able to take off the

shims. Still experimenting. The car drove great yesterday for a short

test trip a couple of miles....

very clever,,,,good luck with your trials,,,

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  • 3 weeks later...

I did a couple more road test last week. Trans working great.

I still have the stock 3.90  gear in the rear, which I like very much so far,

with the up and down roads we have here. My driveway is a little steep,

and the 1st gear works great for that. The 4th and 5th gear works great

on the back roads here.

The Ranger rear I have is a 3.73, so I am not sure if I will install that or

wait for an Explorer rear. :cool:

Edited by Robert Horne
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